Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application
#1
Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application
I am about to start looking into a Bed-liner type paint, for the do it yourself (rolling on application). I wanna rip out the carpet inside my truck and put something i can sweep out a lil better, also have other spots i wanna put the paint at... anyone recomend a brand that works good and isnt going to cost me my left nut?
#2
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I used Herculiner Roll-On Bedliner. I bought a kit at an auto store for about $60 which came with a roller, a big can of liner, and scuff pad. It was enough to do 3 coats of liner on the interior floor of my Bronco - front and back. I still have enough left over to possibly even get in a fourth coat.
It is not the best at holding up in the bed if you are dragging sharp metal objects on it (as I found out) but it works great inside the cab. My experience has also been that it is definitely better than that cheap spray on crap made by duplicolor.
It is not the best at holding up in the bed if you are dragging sharp metal objects on it (as I found out) but it works great inside the cab. My experience has also been that it is definitely better than that cheap spray on crap made by duplicolor.
#7
the herculiner kit is $75 from walmart. there is still more than half of the gallon left, and that was doing the required 2 layers, and then doing a third layer on the floorboard where your feet rest.
prep takes the longest. you need to take your time and get it all done right though. i'm no stranger to tearing interiors down, and especially s-10 interiors (i had a blazer) so it took me about 45 minutes start to finish to get from this:
to this:
i spent a few more minutes rewiring the stereo. then about an hour or more sanding the metal. then vacuumed, then wiped it down with the xylene. let it dry. applied first coat, let that dry, and applied second and finally third coats.
realistically, you're looking at a 2 day job. it won't take all of either day to complete, but unless you have sun up to sun down to devote to it, well....just take your time. in 70* weather, it will take a few hours to dry between coats.
prep takes the longest. you need to take your time and get it all done right though. i'm no stranger to tearing interiors down, and especially s-10 interiors (i had a blazer) so it took me about 45 minutes start to finish to get from this:
to this:
i spent a few more minutes rewiring the stereo. then about an hour or more sanding the metal. then vacuumed, then wiped it down with the xylene. let it dry. applied first coat, let that dry, and applied second and finally third coats.
realistically, you're looking at a 2 day job. it won't take all of either day to complete, but unless you have sun up to sun down to devote to it, well....just take your time. in 70* weather, it will take a few hours to dry between coats.
#10
#12
#14
If you use vibarting tools a lot look into impact gloves. It's well worth the investment.
Didn't have them in my day. 20 years of running air drills everyday and I have severe Carpal Tunnel in both hands. Impact gloves are great for chainsaws and weedwackers too.
If you just use once in awhile take a clean rag and put inside the glove at the palm area. This cuts down the vibration a LOT. Wierd feeling at first put not too bad compared the other choice.
Didn't have them in my day. 20 years of running air drills everyday and I have severe Carpal Tunnel in both hands. Impact gloves are great for chainsaws and weedwackers too.
If you just use once in awhile take a clean rag and put inside the glove at the palm area. This cuts down the vibration a LOT. Wierd feeling at first put not too bad compared the other choice.
#17
Gearhead61, I just read the post from start to finish because I have messed up carpet and needs some type of replacement, but anyway, they said they:
1) Sanded or used a wire wheel to rough up the metal and remove the paint.
2) Then cleaned with a xylene.
3) Then apply first coat of Hurculiner, let dry (couple hours aprox)
4) Then apply second coat and let dry.
5) Remove tape, replace/run wires, replace seats, console ect. Done.
NOTE: The instructions say 2 coats, but like they said above, 3 or even possibly 4 would be better, and why not you have enough and just costs a little more time.
Hope that answers your question Gearhead61, and if you think about it, I would think that it wouldn't stick well to a primer, probably would peal or bubble mabye.
1) Sanded or used a wire wheel to rough up the metal and remove the paint.
2) Then cleaned with a xylene.
3) Then apply first coat of Hurculiner, let dry (couple hours aprox)
4) Then apply second coat and let dry.
5) Remove tape, replace/run wires, replace seats, console ect. Done.
NOTE: The instructions say 2 coats, but like they said above, 3 or even possibly 4 would be better, and why not you have enough and just costs a little more time.
Hope that answers your question Gearhead61, and if you think about it, I would think that it wouldn't stick well to a primer, probably would peal or bubble mabye.
Last edited by pushdeck; 02-27-2007 at 08:32 PM.
#19
Cool thanks for the advice guys! Gonna be doing a good coat of this on my zuk, so I'll definitely have to go get myself a grinder and some wire brushes.
EDIT: Chris, what do you mean by more layers at once? Like putting it on thicker? Should I let it dry partially and then put more layers on?
EDIT: Chris, what do you mean by more layers at once? Like putting it on thicker? Should I let it dry partially and then put more layers on?
#21
well first off.....no primer. you want as close to bare metal as possible. the more paint/primer/goop, etc. you get off, the better it will stick.
after applying the first coat, you're supposed to let it sit until almost dry. to where it's still a little tacky, but not runny or anything. the first layer need to make the initial bond to the metal. the good thing about herculiner is it bonds to itself. so you can add layers as needed.
after applying the first coat, you're supposed to let it sit until almost dry. to where it's still a little tacky, but not runny or anything. the first layer need to make the initial bond to the metal. the good thing about herculiner is it bonds to itself. so you can add layers as needed.
#22
#23
those work but rememeber your get what you pay for in most cases.. i work for a company using a product similar to Line-X... and ive dont everything from frames, bed, interiors and all sorts of things and many customs jobs for Disney, Universal Studios, Nasa and Sea World here in Orlando and it may cost more but its so much more durable to go to one of the spray on places to have it done in my opinion...
I see the stuff soo much that it will probably never touch anything but the frame of my Ranger lol and i have my bed sprayed n my F150.
I see the stuff soo much that it will probably never touch anything but the frame of my Ranger lol and i have my bed sprayed n my F150.
#25
I know the professional sprays are typically more durable, but they cost ne where from 400 to 500 by me from what i've had quoted and I can get a gallon of the duplicolor with roller and scratch pads for 50. I only moderately use the bed of the truck and just need something a little more durable than paint that has some texture to it to help stuff stay put and clean up well. I have trouble justifying spending that much more money on a pro job, idk...