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Old 07-07-2009
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
If you pulled the blocks, you should be running shorter rear shocks. This is true anywhere but especially if you drive off road and/or carry cargo. As it is now modified, your shocks and their upper and lower mounts have become the jounce bump stops for the rear suspension. Those parts are designed to damp the spring motion, not support the impact force of bottoming suspension.
The suspension will not be flexing enough to bottom out, but I throw some pretty heavy crap back there sometimes.

What i need is shocks off of stock 2wd, correct? Or at least set for that ride height?
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Old 07-07-2009
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If you want to remove the blocks permanently, then the 'right' way to go is to copy Ford and use shocks sized for a Ranger without blocks like the 2WD XL/XLT. These are probably something like 2" shorter fully compressed length. Unfortunately, all else being equal, shortening a shock's compressed length by 2" also shortens its extended length by approximately 4", for a net loss of ~2" of shock travel.

Personally, I would put the money into new torsion bars instead.
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Old 07-07-2009
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yeah, it sounds like even if you want it lowered, the torsion bars are pretty messed up to be maxed out as they are. You need new bars regardless.

I cranked my torsion bars some, not even maxed out and the ride is noticeably rougher. I will eventually have to get the spindle lift so I can have my bars back closer to stock crank and the front suspension can function like it was meant to.

However, If you want your truck lowered, then by all means lower it. I would take off those fender flares tho.
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Old 07-07-2009
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as it has been stated... just get new torsion bars!
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