I have a 1994 Mazda B-4000 making it a V6 4.0L, it has 1 size over stock tires on it now with stock rims, stock axels, stock gears, and open differentials. It says "this vehicle was designed for off-road use" I do believe that is horse $hit. I have taken the truck off-road in a sense that a farmers field after it has rained was "off-road", but I want to get into some serious trail wheeling and some fun stuff with minimal breakage, and the right equitment to keep me as un-stuck as possible. I don't wana be the one who is constantly being asked "ya git your truck stuck?", I'd rather try to paddle out of it the best way I know how, and thats keep thoes wheels a spinnin'. I have come up with a plan and prices on each of the key components I believe I need. I just need some opionions, some help to install this stuff, and some people to check my list so I don't forget nessicary components.

1st - 4" Rough Country Lift (Includes Shocks & Steering Stabilizer) - Price $500 Shipped
2nd - Two 4:56 gears - Price $260 Shipped (John, thanks for the advice, but I think there gonna be 35's on this beast now, need to keep that gearing low)
3rd - EATON ELocker Differential for Ford Rear Axle - $700 Shipped
4th - 15X8 American Racing OUTLAW II 62 Series Rims - $ 320 Shipped
5th - Either 35X12.5 or 33X12.5 BFG M/T Tires - Nitro Filled - $700 Mounted

I think this would give me a great start to offroad wheeling but yet not throw my vehicle too far out of configuration. I don't want to make it un-drivable on the highway, but I like to turn heads, even if it lacks some conforts driving the beast. I don't want to go too far because I think everyone knows there is a limit where it is pratical and then its for show. I want to have a stable offroad platform, not a show vehicle. I don't plan to sit this truck somewhere, I plan to do some serious off-road wheeling with it, and I believe this should give me plenty of clearance, and beef for what I am looking at doing.

Let me know your idea's and feel free to be harsh, this is a big purchase and I want to know I have the equitment for the price, instead of paying less and breaking something, or comming up short of my goal.

Thanks!
- Brian

 

Looks like a good plan overall. Verify that the Eaton works with the 4.56 on your 28 spline carrier just to be sure. If you're going 35's you will need the 4.56 for sure. What I told you was based on your original 33 plans.

I say go for it!

 

John,

Thoes tires on your truck look so sweet, I am planning on doing the lift and everything before I get the tires so I was wondering once I have it done if I could stop by and "take one of yours" and verify it will fit under the well and have no rub, or minor oh well. But I really perfer not to have a $700 set of rubber sitting here on $350 rims and have them useless. I don't wana take the truck beyond the 4 inch lift, so if 33's are it, I'll have some lower gearing which will be nice anyways, the clutch in this truck is a bit sensitive and I always feel as if I am riding it a little long, getting better with time and getting quicker, but not quite what I am used to. I compare it to a 78 jeep we have, rather than a regular truck, but over all I am very pleased with fords ranger, with the mazda hood, grill, and of course, don't miss the steering wheel!

Thanks for you opinion, and all your help the last few days, now I need to find funding... anyone have a tutorial on how to rob a bank, or about planting your very own money tree?

Thanks Again and let me know if it would be feasable to "try the 35's before I commit to em"

- Brian

 

35s on a D35 TTB is bad news. the axle joints wont like the abuse and u'll be eatting them like candy. i would opt for 33s. what kind of hubs do u have? if u have autos i suggest a manual conversion to some warns...other than that keep a semi light foot and u'll be ok...i may have more later.

check this out, tons of tech for ur TTB mazdog.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.htm

 

Kiel may have a point -- I don't know. But you are welcome to come by and try my tires on your truck to see if there are any issues.

 

Humm,

They are auto Hubs, what can I do with my axels to git um up to speed. I don't wana create too much weaknesses in the truck as far as parts, I know wheel cylinder, brakes, and other parts will ware prematurely, but how could I counter-act this problem, Also, if I enguage 4X4 when stopped, would that be good enough for is the manual conversion a must?, the Bill just seems to be getting higher

Thanks!
- Brian

 

Hey Guys,

did a bit of reasearch on my truck, and finally found out that axle code. now I did not purchase this truck new, but I don't think the previous owner did anything to either of the axle assemblies. Stock, and what my door tag says is 91 meaing -> open 8.8" 2750 Cap. 3.27 Gear Ratio <- it kind of worries me doing such a gearing change, because if I do keep stock tires on the vehicle I will be shifting like a mad man up to 55 and then rev up at 3,500, however, I guess I could just keep the 33's on the truck. I also saw that the max reccomended tire size for that axle is a 33" and that is understandable... and I guess I will just stay at that mark to prevent major breakage. I don't want to wreck anything to the point of no return because we all know breakage = money and money = work, and work = sucks. Like my lil anology... Let me know what you think... Also if I am only doing a 33", is it thought that I need a rear lift or just lifting the frontend 2 more inches would be fine?, I believe the rear tires will clear, maybe have some drag in some extreeme flex, but I figure I can always compensate for that later, as long as it does not rub when I am driving it home.

Well just read up on it and I was looking at the ford 7.5 inch, I have the 8.8 Inch and the max tire size is 37's , I will repeat that, 37 inches of rubber, now that is nuts, but with 4 inches of lift I think I should be able to support 35's, we all hope, cause 35's are cool, right John?

Anybody, I don't want to discourage you from posting about the tire size, please let me know why you think 35's are a good idea or a bad one, your opionion now may save me anger later, and I would really apprecate that!!

Let me know what ya think...

Thanks!
- Brian

 

i dont know off hand if anyone makes aftermarket shafts for the front TTB. i think u can upgrade to d44 joints however. a manual hub conversion is cheap and would be the best way around the auto hub deal. my cuz has a 93 splash with auto hubs and they took a **** with just 31s and mild wheelin. check out that site i posted for upgrades to make the d35 stronger.

 

See if your rear still has the little metal axle tag on it. It should have a field in the lower left hand corner that says something like this: "3 27 88" which would mean 3.27 ratio and 8.8" ring gear. "3L27 88" would mean the same, but with a limited slip.

The "axle codes" have been found to be unreliable sometimes. But the tag put on the axle duing manufacture, if still there, is usually more accurate.

 

What is a 4" Rough Country Lift (Includes Shocks & Steering Stabilizer) - Price $500 Shipped ? Is that a body lift ?

 

thats 4" suspension lift

 

It's a little easier to lift TTB trucks than our IFS front ends, Ben. His prices are lower than ours (dang it...)

Although I can't complain -- lifting a 4x2 is much easier with fewer complicatoins than a 4x4.

 

Oh ok I see. What does TTB stand for again ?

 

Twin Traction Beam

 

Those stopped production in 2001 right ?

 

Bad News, well not completely bad, it will probally keep me from breaking the truck, and keep some costs down. I think the new plan is like the old plan but better... lift the front 4 inches. it will be level with the back (empty), place 33X12.5 Mud Terrians with 4:56 Gears and a rear E-Locker for Full lock and Limited Slip. Suspension should only cost me $150 now so thats always nice. Could anyone reccomend a good pair of 2 inch lift shocks that would make my truck ride a bit nicer, I notice the rear shocks make scraping sounds and the frontend bangs in bumps now, I figure replacing springs and shocks in the front will help that out and the rear shocks could use a replacement.

I measured the wheel wells and well they are only 34 inches wide, prohibiting full flex with the 35" tires, 33" will fit tightly and let the truck sit much lower... meaing more stability but yet I do gain ground clearance

Thanks!!
- Brian

 

TTB stopped on rangers in 1998 and fullsizes in 1996/7

 

Looking for some Help installing 2 gears, 1 Locker and a Lift kit, I live in Berks County, PA but am willing to drive a bit of distace, I figure the differentials should take less than 2 hours each, the locker about 2 hours, and the lift about 2 hours, so probally about 8 hours total with power tools , Let me know if anyone is willing to help me on out with this project!!

 

id help but i have basic tools and no specailty tools.

u can do the lift urself but the gears and locker u need someone who can set up the correct backlash.

 

I've done the gears and can probably help you. It may be more than 2 hours though. The problem is that you have to press (or heat up and drop on) one of the pinion bearings and a shim goes under it. That shim adjusts the engagement pattern of the ring and pinion.

If that shim is not right, you have to take the bearing off and start over with different shims. This means a press of some sort to remove the bearing.

I guessed right on my installation the first time. That doesn't mean I will on yours! Different gear sets are all slightly different -- and we have two axles to do. If we have to remove the bearings, your truck will be down while we get it done at a shop.

Gear swaps are one of those things that has some "gotcha's" in a Ford 8.8.

Torqueing on the pinion nut is also a big pain. You can put it on at first just tight enough to seat the bearings, and leave the crush sleeve off. But you need like 300 lb/ft of torque to crush the sleeve during final assembly -- it's a big pain in the butt.

Best to do it at someones shop with good air tools. I did it here at work but I can't do yours here, unfortunately.

 

plus for the front u need to drop the third member and that can become a PITA.

 

My Cousin's Husband has a shop, just a general mechanic, do you think he would have the equitment?, also would it be best just to have everything installed by a shop, front lift, both gears and the locker?

 

General Question, I am going with the 15X8" rims at this point with the BFG M/T tires 33X12.5, BFG says don't mount on under an 8.5 Rim. I know people mount them on 8's and I know they work, what kind of wear will I see if I run them on 8's, will it substancially degrade the tire, or if I keep up in rotating them and keep them a bit low in pressure to keep the surface of the tire pressed firmly agsinst the road should I notice anything...

Let me know your thoughts and reccomendations... I can get 15X8 or 15X10 rims

33" BFG M/T Tires are suposta fit 8.5 - 11 inch rims, I have attached the BFG specs on the tires for refrence below

BFG M/T Info Sheet <-PDF