Originally Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org
allrighty. ill wait for your write up.
please keep in mind im a slow 16 year old, ( if thats not evident)
so details, the more the better! :)
what does everyone think? spray can, or roll on? i dont think i need much, just less than the bottom half of the truck.
Id try to go the roll on route. It will build thicker and probably take a little longer to dry. that might not sound like a plus, but in this case it will help to avoid any weird spray can stripes. If you havent seen them, they are like streaks that you can see from the spray pattern in the end finish.
Ok heres a rough cut on a prep job. This is going to apply to the inside of a bed. Similar rules will apply to the ourside of a vehicle, if you need any specific questions answered, just ask.
Step 1 - WASH THE LIVING HELL OUT OF WHAT YOU ARE GONNA PREP!
Step 2 -
- 80 or 120 grit Wet or dry sandpaper
- a sanding bloc. a soft block for wet sanding by hand. I reccomend MotorGaurds SB1. Grey one one side and black on the other
-Bucket with soap and water
- A willingness to get soaked
- Buy some latex gloves for when you are sanding.
You are gonna wet sand the inside of the bed. That means you are gonna use what is known as 'Wet or Dry" sandpaper. For this type of job they usually reccomend 80 -120 grit sandpaper*. You will be best served to use a bucket with water in it and some soap.Throw some sandpaper in the bucket with the sanding block. (SAVE 1 sheet! keet it dry!) )Hop in the bed and bring the bucket with you. Start at the front of the bed and wrap the sandpaper around the block and start sanding. You will only need light to moderate pressure when sanding. Take longer strokes where possible and try to sand it evenly. Dont just stick in one spot and grind on the paint.
The questions was raised about how much sanding is enough? Well the best way to see if youve done enough is when the paint is no longer shiny. at all. You want to bascially just knock off the shinyness of the paint. That means you have sucessfully hit all of it and it now has 'tooth' to provide the paint (or bedliner in this case) to stick to it.
You will need to get in ALL the little curves, dips, corners and other areas that you will apply the bedliner too. If you dont scuff it, it WILL peel there. Once it starts to peel, it doesnt get better either. so take your time here.
Because the paper is very coars, you will most likely break through the paint in some spots. Its understanable, it will happen but try not to do it on purpose. If you do break through the metal, just wait. Ill explain what to do in the next few steps.
Get the water hose and rinse out the whole inside of the bed. Make sure all the soap is gone.
You will need
Dry the bed. Enjoy the semi raw feeling that your hands now have because of sanding without the gloves i told you to buy. Next time dont be so cheap :D
You will need
- Spray can primer.
You arent a pro most likely. I dont expect you to buy etch primer, then hit it with some 2K urethane. Spray can primer will be fine for what you are doing here. Get the spray can out and hit all the little bare metal areas that you got when sanding. Hit it with one light coat first, then after it flashes off (the point where its no longer wet looking) then give it a medium coat. After that one flashes, give it one more medium coat of primer. Dont just hammer it on! you dont need alot, just enough to get something over the metal.
You will need
- about $10
Go get something to eat. dont take the Ranger. walk down the street and do something for about an hour.
Get your sandpaper again. Hopefully you bought enough that you still have some that you didnt soak in the bucket. Sand the primed spots a bit. This time do it lightly enough that you dont break through the primer. Hopefully you developed a little bit of a feel for how the paper handles now.
You will need
- Bedliner material
- Masking tape
- masking paper
- Paper towels
- Wax and Grease remover (not laquer thinner!) get this at an auto paint store. it comes in spray cans. 1 is enough.
First of all, mask off the parts you dont want to get hit with the bedliner. This might include if you are gonna do the tops of the bed rails or whatever. mask of basically anything you dont want black!
Get some paper towels and the wax and grease remover. spray it on the bed surface and wipe it around with one rag. Get ANOTHER rag and WHILE ITS STILL WET, dry it off. move on to the next part hit the whole bed and hop out.
Open your can of bedliner material. stir the holy living hell out of it. Make sure to use the stir sticks you got with the kit ( or the paint store) and scrape the bottom of the can to pick up anything that settled there. Once its pretty uniform and consistant, pour it into the paint tray that they give you (they gave you one right?)
Get the rollers out. PLAN IT OUT!! you are gonna hop into the bed and start rolling. work at the front of the bed and work backwards. dont paint yourself into a corner!
load up a roller, hop your *** in the bed and get at it. usually they require one coat for coverage. If you ever painted a house, you should know how to use a roller with paint. Not too hard.
They also usually require a second coat. for texture. after you finish the first coat, give it a few minutes to flash. (theres that word again) usually this is about 30 minutes. After that, roll on your second coat. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN THOUGH! they arent always the same so check the one you get first.
Let it dry in the shade and wait a week before you throw anything heavy in the bed. Enjoy it. Now the *****es will want you.
- Grit refers to the number of grains per square inch. the higher the number, the finer the paper. Use 36- 180 for body work Use 220 - 320 for primering use 400 - 1000 for paint work. use 1200 - 3000 grit for polishing finished paint.
- You dont want to break through the factory paint if you dont have to because its gonna stick to the metal the best. There are exceptions, but by far it has the best adherence to the body. You also dont want to break through the clear alot because when its time to apply something over the top of it, the edges of where you broke through the paint are very thin. This makes them very prone to reacting when you apply something directly over the top of them. The most common reaction is a big, fat wrinkly mess of paint. Thats not good and a ***** at times to fix.
- I dont think doing the whole truck is gonna look good, but its your truck so do whatever you wish. I do think doing just the lower part of the truck might look good.
- This is a writeup done for entertainment only. Neither I, nor my employer are responsible for your vehicle or yourself should you choose to perform the above action. any painting should be done by a professional, trained painter in a safe, legal environment. No gaurantees of anything are expressed or implied.
(yeah yeah yeah, i know. I might be overdoing it on the last part, but the internet is a small place ok? )