View Poll Results: How many lights?
#1 2 lights
8
12.31%
#2 4 lights
57
87.69%
Voters: 65. You may not vote on this poll
add more lights? poll..
#17
#20
I'm currently running the stock alternator (130 amp) and haven't seen any real problems. How often are you actually going to be running all the lights anyway. With the stock headlights and fog lights, I have over 1100 watts of lights. I've only seen the volts drop below 13volts when I was off-roading and not driving at highway speeds.
#21
I'm currently running the stock alternator (130 amp) and haven't seen any real problems. How often are you actually going to be running all the lights anyway. With the stock headlights and fog lights, I have over 1100 watts of lights. I've only seen the volts drop below 13volts when I was off-roading and not driving at highway speeds.
My 95 amp alternator is just barely doing the job. I notice a power and mileage loss when my lights are on vs when i have just the factory lights on. So I'm going to go junkyard shopping for a 130amp soon. I should also mention that my battery is the factory original and is due to be replaced aswell, Red top (or yellow top if i can find one) optima here I come!
And I kinda like them close together but I also got rectangular lights.
Heres my setup on my new truck.
Those are going on top as soon as I get a rack made for them, then 4 57 series all season lights are going on right there...
#22
Ahhh... see you have the factory upgraded alternator mines only 95 amps and its pushing it with the 4 I have mounted up right now... I got 460w in lights right now, going to add another 400w, thats just off road lights. Not to mention the regular lights which I plan on hooking in a relay to run both high and lows when the highs are on (for when I keep my other lights off) and my system thats always on. In the winter, it gets dark fast enough to where they are on pretty much alsong as I'm behind the wheel.
My 95 amp alternator is just barely doing the job. I notice a power and mileage loss when my lights are on vs when i have just the factory lights on. So I'm going to go junkyard shopping for a 130amp soon. I should also mention that my battery is the factory original and is due to be replaced aswell, Red top (or yellow top if i can find one) optima here I come!
And I kinda like them close together but I also got rectangular lights.
Heres my setup on my new truck.
Those are going on top as soon as I get a rack made for them, then 4 57 series all season lights are going on right there...
My 95 amp alternator is just barely doing the job. I notice a power and mileage loss when my lights are on vs when i have just the factory lights on. So I'm going to go junkyard shopping for a 130amp soon. I should also mention that my battery is the factory original and is due to be replaced aswell, Red top (or yellow top if i can find one) optima here I come!
And I kinda like them close together but I also got rectangular lights.
Heres my setup on my new truck.
Those are going on top as soon as I get a rack made for them, then 4 57 series all season lights are going on right there...
DO NOT put that relay in, for low and hibeams! you will burn out lights like crazy! head light bulbs aren't designed to take the extra heat of both filiments on for extended periods of times, both the glass globe, and the filiments themselves... not that they will burn out instantly or anything, but i bet you, if you put 2 bulbs to the test, one with both filiments on, and 1 with just the high, you would get 1/4 the life out of the one with both, if that... the other thing you MAY have issues with, is your ground to the headlight, it is designed for one filiment, the second for extended periods of time MAY over heat the wiring...
true the headlights were designed for this use, as if you pull your turn signal lever towards the sw, they both turn on, but this is designed for a "flash" use, not periods longer than maybe 2 seconds...
#23
those look good, there is enough space between them... the p-shopped pic, almost looked like the lights were touching IMO...
DO NOT put that relay in, for low and hibeams! you will burn out lights like crazy! head light bulbs aren't designed to take the extra heat of both filiments on for extended periods of times, both the glass globe, and the filiments themselves... not that they will burn out instantly or anything, but i bet you, if you put 2 bulbs to the test, one with both filiments on, and 1 with just the high, you would get 1/4 the life out of the one with both, if that... the other thing you MAY have issues with, is your ground to the headlight, it is designed for one filiment, the second for extended periods of time MAY over heat the wiring...
true the headlights were designed for this use, as if you pull your turn signal lever towards the sw, they both turn on, but this is designed for a "flash" use, not periods longer than maybe 2 seconds...
DO NOT put that relay in, for low and hibeams! you will burn out lights like crazy! head light bulbs aren't designed to take the extra heat of both filiments on for extended periods of times, both the glass globe, and the filiments themselves... not that they will burn out instantly or anything, but i bet you, if you put 2 bulbs to the test, one with both filiments on, and 1 with just the high, you would get 1/4 the life out of the one with both, if that... the other thing you MAY have issues with, is your ground to the headlight, it is designed for one filiment, the second for extended periods of time MAY over heat the wiring...
true the headlights were designed for this use, as if you pull your turn signal lever towards the sw, they both turn on, but this is designed for a "flash" use, not periods longer than maybe 2 seconds...
Well I have the relay system hook up on my old 84'. Been running the lights like that for 3 years now without a problem and it helps out sooooooo much i don't even need the auxilary lights. But Thinking about it it may not be the best Idea on my nice Silverstars I saw some bulbs at Napa that melted and bubbled out from being too hot. Maybe I'll just do the direct power from the battery relay setup...
#24
if you haven't had a problem with it, then give-er...
not entirely sure what the direct power from the battery relay setup is... but i don't think it's much different than stock, it is just a newer setup, that doesn't run through the fuse box... i don't think it would help much, if it is what i think it is...
not entirely sure what the direct power from the battery relay setup is... but i don't think it's much different than stock, it is just a newer setup, that doesn't run through the fuse box... i don't think it would help much, if it is what i think it is...
#25
Its basically replacing the thin factory wiring with heavy duty wiring that goes directly from the battery to the lights and is relayed from the high beam circuit so that the lights get maximum voltage and power to the light possible. The light will only suck up as much as it can handle so its no issue of how big of wire you use and the factory wire should be sufficent but it gets old and has to run through alot more wire. Plus not to mention the load relief on the light switch will help it last longer.
I Think it should help a good bit... Not sure where I got this but awhile ago I was reading about lighting. and was surprised that even the smallest amount in voltage drop in the lights can affect the light output and life pretty drasticly...
I Think it should help a good bit... Not sure where I got this but awhile ago I was reading about lighting. and was surprised that even the smallest amount in voltage drop in the lights can affect the light output and life pretty drasticly...