First of all....what oil and weight has been used so far? Many oils will suffice but if it burns any excessive amount of oil a thicker viscosity than the recommended weight may be used. I would also consider using a product called AutoRX before you add any new oil/filter. This stuff works great at removing sludge and nasty oil deposits and will get your engine cleaned out before you start a new oil regime. I found out about this stuff from an oil website called 'bobistheoilguy.com'. They also have a product website. Good stuff.
My own personal oil of choice is either Mobil 1, Redline, Pennzoil Platinum, or Castrol Syntec. All are good oils....especially the Redline (my opinion), and synthetic (not always needed). Not knowing the condition of your engine I can only speculate on what weight to use. If it's in great shape I would stay as close to the OEM spec weight as possible. I would assume it's 5w-30. If you burn a fair amount of oil the next heavier weight may be a better choice (0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40) or you can utilize one of the higher mileage specific oils that are available. These can actually work well in high mileage vehicles.
As far as filter.....stay away from Fram (junk). Go with either Motorcraft, Amsoil, Mobil 1, or my personal favorite (cuz it's the best for the money...my opinion) Purolator Pure One or Purolator Premium Plus.
Ok Bro... listen... when I first got my 2.3, she was starved on maintenance. I have since revived her in the almost 3 years i have owned her. She is at 163K and still tickin good. I have been using Valvoline, or Mobile Full Synthetic 10w-30 and either Mobile1 filter, or Fram x2 double guard. every 4th oil change I supplement 1 quart for Lucas Oil Treatment (Very Think, BUT WORKS!!!!!!!) and I always use Lucas Gas Treatment. I also would recommend looking at Royal Purple Synthetic as It is also a Higher end Synthetic. Also, make sure you do a Tranny Fluid drain and change, along with Tranny Filter change if you are over 100,000.
Ok i did some research and found out about the supertech oil and filters, From what i see its ok.
But i will stick to my motorcraft.
Again, Fram oil filters are trash, They can keep there cheap crap.
The only filters i will use are Purolator, Motorcraft and Mobil-1.
Edit: also WIX filters.
From the website i was looking at.
"Supertech oil is made by Warren Petroleum...They also make Kendall oils I believe. This oil will not cause any problems in a well-maintained engine. No, it doesn't cause sludge; sludge is an engine design flaw exasperated by lower-grade oil and poor filters(Frams are the worst, btw)...
For 3k miles, Supertech oil is fine, and the Supertech filters at Walmart are made by Champion, who also makes the Mobil 1 filters. Much better than the Fram orange cans of death!
Supertech synthetic oil is a Grp III oil with a relatively weak additive package, has been shown to be good up until about 5000 mi. in most engines."
Last edited by 5speedin2.3; 03-30-2007 at 02:19 AM.
Hmm never had any issues with fram. Also fram is not the cheapest filter either. Matter of fact there tuffguard is one of the more expensive filters out there. I have always used fram and never ever had any issues with them. STP is another good brand. For gods sake it has 160k on it so any good oil will work. I prefer mobile but to each there own. DONT BUY NAPA OIL FILTERS!! Way to expensive and not worth a hoot. I have used that havoline 100k motor oil in my older rangers and it worked great. Not the cheapest but still good oil.
Truck Specs:2004 FORD RANGER XLT EXTENDED CAB
Tires/Wheels:265/70/16 GENERAL GRABBER AT2'S
Engine Mods:K&N AIR FILTER
Exterior Mods:FOG LIGHTS AND NERF BARS COMING SOON
Audio/Video Mods:CD PLAYER WITH AMP(SOON TO BE INSTALLED
Custom Mods:SKID PLATE(SOON TO BE INSTALLED)
Miscellaneous:FORD MOTORSPORT STICKERS ON BOTH DOORS/4X4 OFF ROAD STICKERS ON BACK OF TRUCK
Hmm never had any issues with fram. Also fram is not the cheapest filter either. Matter of fact there tuffguard is one of the more expensive filters out there. I have always used fram and never ever had any issues with them. STP is another good brand. For gods sake it has 160k on it so any good oil will work. I prefer mobile but to each there own. DONT BUY NAPA OIL FILTERS!! Way to expensive and not worth a hoot.
"Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil... "
Last edited by 5speedin2.3; 03-30-2007 at 02:29 AM.
When my '94 S-10 went over 100,000 miles I would take the Amsoil oil I drained from my motorcycles and put it in the truck. She has 170,000 miles on her and the guy that bought her loves to take people out to hear her run. I've been known to put 5000 miles on my bikes between oil changes so the oil has mileage before it went in the truck.
Search the net from oil filter comparisons. Our motorcycle club did one years ago and you would be amazed at the difference in quality once you cut them open.
Just a side note, Wix is the company that invented the spin on filter and they make quality filters. NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix.
I used to use shell oil from Costco.. used that for 30k+ miles, no issues but seemed to go through it faster. Used a Purolator oil filter. got tired of spending $7 for the oil filter so switched to the motorcraft at half the price.
Also switched to Valvoline next gen high mileage 5w30 oil. Couldn't be happier with it, I'm not going through oil like I was with the shell. I pull out almost 4 qts instead of 3 like before.
I'm happy. I don't think it really matters honestly. Just change oil and filter at a regular basis and you are good.