Blow it out your A$$ Bob, your opinion has been voiced many times, we know how you feel now zip it. I have 85,000 on my truck no issues, I had 160,000 on my last truck with no issues and 600 hours on my boat with no issues. Until you have proof to back your statements up, shut it...

 

I'm not going to argue with you, but it sounds like you haven't learned a thing since the last time I tried to teach you something!!!

Here is my proof, the API website, just click on the top "click here to view products" and you will see it's just as I said, only PCO and XL are API
certified!!!:

http://eolcs.api.org/DisplayCompanyI...mpanyID=226450

 

Who cares! It doesn't prove its a waste of money, or bad for your motor! In fact, the reason that most of there oils aren't certified is because they have too much zinc in them which engines need, but catalytic converts don't like. That is why oils have to be to a new certain standard (not as good as they once were).

 

How about the 6.0L PSD owners that believed Scamsoil's extended OCI BS and are buying new engines?????? People that got brainwashed like you are!!
That's the reason you totally miss the lies and deceit on the Scamsoil website, that all their oil products are API certified!!

Your done for once they pull you into their cult!!!

 

I don't see then how in 3 vehicles that I run hard I have never had any engine trouble, even my girlfriend who knows nothing about cars noticed the easier winter starting and smoother idle after my first change to it in this vehicle.

I don't buy the 6.0 PSD BS, show me another and I maybe inclined to research more, but that 6 liter was a pile of crap. They had tons of issues with that motor and people didn't run amsoil in them...

 

Giving an opinion can be so simple but for some reason it turns into an ordeal.
I said buy a name brand....any name brand and you'll be fine. How and how much you spend to give yourself peace of mind is your business. I could buy cheap dino on sale with a rebate but I CHOOSE Mobil 1 because it makes me feel better. There are brands I wouldn't buy but if makes you feel at ease then it was the correct purchase. Simple fact Name Brand oil is name brand because it works, if it didn't they wouldn't be around anymore.

Rant over for now.

 

All Oil is good. I just run whatever I can get the better deal on. Amsoil is that oil.

Oil is Oil, if you run a Name brand and change it when you are suppose to you will not have any problems.

I have never seen a problem with a engine due to the oil.

I ran Autozone special 30wt in my derby car that had 140k Miles on it. Beat the hell out of it before the derby, during the derby I lost the radiator almost right away ran 10 - 15 Mins before it seized adn wouldn't even crank over, let it sit 10 mins and it started and idle and never knocked. held it to the floor for 5 - 10 mins and only things that happened was it caught fire.

 

Again Chris, you have blinders on, because you have been brainwashed by Scamsoil!! The zinc (it's really ZDDP) thing is a very lame excuse for Scamsoil NOT having the majority of their oil products API certified!

Check out this URL, you will see Mobil doesn't have a problem with it, and if you notice their (not there) referenced table, ALL the products are API certified:

http://mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto...otor_Oils.aspx

The real reason most Scamsoil products ARE NOT API certified, isn't due to the initial testing, but the API has stringent requirements for process monitoring, and variation control. If you can understand it, the details for this
monitoring and variation controls are in this API document:

http://www.api.org/certifications/en...tion042007.pdf

Scamsoil is a very small "blender and packager" company, and buy ALL their base stock from "real" oil companies! Therefore, they don't have the resources needed for API certifications! All they can do effectively is stick the consumer with a highly inflated price for their products, due to being a
MLM company!!!

Ok, I've given you more PROOF and references, where are yours, other than the Scamsoil website, which MOST of us know is full of lies!!!!

 

But, the difference is, the people that didn't use Scamsoil, and changed their
(not there) oil at the recommended OCI, had their engines covered by Ford's warranty!

 

has anyone on here tried K&N oil filters? Any feedback on them?

 

They have worked well for me, but I can't justify the price. Wix work as good (IMO) and are a lot less money...

 

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

 

greygooseranger:

Next oil change send a sample to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html
drop the $22.50 and post your results. I did mine just to show that dusty desert off roading with a K&N was OK. You're being asked for proof and results....show them, I know I was happy to show mine.

 

MObil is a good oil, but there is nothing wrong with amsoil ether. I never liked it before but started using it in my quads and it is doing great

 

Oil Wars are FUN!!

If you guys are going to fight, I'll hold your wallets.

 

NEW QUESTION: I read something in reference to changing the oil early the first time you run synthetic through the engine because the filter sees its fair share of junk that the old oil left behind? My engine only has 11,000 miles on it. Should I consider this?




Rich?


.

 

At 11,000 miles you can just make the switch. Run your oil to 15,000, then change every 5000 (15,20,25,etc.) I'ts so much easier to keep up like that.

 

^^^ Thats what I'm gonna do, I'm about 1000 miles away from 65000 after that its 5000 mile oil changes.

 

Thats the same filter as the motorcraft.

 

I change my oil every 3000 miles, I got 170,270 miles on my truck, so I keep up on checking my oil. When it comes to filters, motocraft or WIX. That's the ones I'd use. I've had Penzoil in my truck and I use Valvoline. I'm thinking about using Castrol this next change or Royal Purple. Not trying to change topics but does anyone know anything about how Royal Purple performs?

 

IMO with that many miles I don't think I would switch oils now.