On the outside, theres 2 places where its inside where the frame extends out toward the center where the factory crossmember was.

The frame is MIG welded, everything else will be tig.

 

In moderation.

 

Lookin good! Lovin the back half so far!

 

you can say that again..

 

You'd like some of Jimmy's 4x4 builds then lol.

 

gota cover any flat areas with as many as you can!

 

is this a pirate thing? or another fab shop?

 

They're a fab shop. They put as many dimple dies as possible and drill holes in between the dimples lol.

 

its not fair the access to tools that you have! lol

looks great

 

Started welding the rear truss. Will take a long time. So no new pictures yet.

 

Another test fit shot.



Welding.

 

soooo ba dass

 

are you changing the wheelbase any?

 

Going down to 112 from 114.

 

what do you have to do special to TIG to Cast? or are you just going over it?

... i guess thats the purpose of a truss.

 

this things gonna be siack i got a question though ur dropping to 112 wb why is that
if anything id think u wanna go longer
i know when i redo mine soon it gonna get stretched to 120-124 on 42s im just curious on why ur goin shorter

 

I'll probably come down like 8-10"
the rear drive shaft is just too exposed for me..

 

interesting

anyways good luck with the build ill be watching for sure

 

Was wondering the same thing because if you look it's not a close fit over the pumpkin and that looks like a HUGE gap to fill. interested to see what he is going to do!

 

The truss will not weld to the cast. I will probably tie the diff cover into it depending on if theres room with the upper link mounts.

120-124" wheelbase is too long IMO, unless your running 54's or a 4 seater or something.

I generally shoot for a 110-112 wheelbase. Too much more and you'll have a worse breakover angle and drag the belly everywhere.

 

WTF is going on with the hood Jey? Otherwise looks good!

110" WB, FTMFW

 

Can't see **** out of the truck with that ~2" cowl sticking up in the way.

 

10-4

 

Not sure if you thought of it or not, but you could make a mount on the backside using the 3 holes near the yoke. You could tie the diff into the truss there also.

 

Got the truss about finished. Will finish welding the holes on top and the truss to the housing when everythings set-up.