id skip the staun beadlocks seeing as they are about the same price as that of beadlocked rims. might as well have stazworks make you a set of custom double bead locks. they run about 225 a rim i think
The DOT stamping on the wheels is where it's weird. Most companies that manufacture and sell beadlocks do not have the wheels DOT stamped, to avoid any liability that could possibly point back to them and the beadlocks. But then some beadlocks are stamped, and some rims, with no centers and no beads, are DOT stamped, even though you cannot bolt it on a truck or mount a tire on it. It's confusing, i think a vendor on pirate has a 50$ reward if you can actually find a law that says beadlocks are illegal.
looks good bro.. power on.. just noticed a damn crack in my front crossmember where the ttb bracket bolts on.... i guess i'll be doing mine soon.. still up in the air on ttb or solid... i was given a ttb50 out of a 97' f-250.... i know it's weird but it will **** off my jeep buddies who say it won't work.. 39.5's are hard on parts i guess... snapped the 1350 t-case in reverse pulling a superduty back onto the road..dammitt...just threw another one in for now but i'm thinking all superduty trans/t-case... it's wide but i need strong stuff...the dana 50 front solid out of a 99'up superduty (once narrowed) is looking good too.. big brakes, big shafts, big u-joints,etc....lol and keep the pics up..
also on the beadlocks, go with the internal stuff.. my jeep guys are always complaining about bolts breaking, not able to remove do to damage, expensive,balance probs.... the internal works better anyhow and can go from your $50 bent wheel into the new $50 wheel, try that with conventional beadlocks...lol
This is just a suggestion... or maybe a request to the Moderators.
There is a lot of good information in this thread from the Original poster and from other members, but there is also a lot of clutter. This should definitely be a sticky, or perhaps a how-to, considering it is pretty step-by-step, and 034x4 has been pretty consistent in posting parts, numbers, and where he got things from.
034x4, I know you already said this before, but considering this thread is 13 pages long, I can't find it. Where are you getting your front driveshaft from? Oh yeah, and hurry up and finish that ****
Here's some pics, got them, and the new shackles (factory waggy bushing are 2.5", alcan's are 3") on the axle, and on the truck.
I actually have too much pinion angle now, moving them back 10*, welding them on for good, then set my caster, weld the knuckles, and assemble the axle...
Gil where the FAWK is my QUOTE!!!???
EDIT: the last pics have the weight of the truck on the axle, it is not sitting on the jackstands, so my shackle angle is perfect at ride height. Just gotta cut the extra **** off of the end of the shackles.
oh ok I see what you're saying. You move where the axle bolts to the leaves so it drops the pinion down and you get a better driveshaft angle. Still learning techincal terms for it, but spring perch makes alot of sense now that I think about it.
What is your driveshaft angle going to be once you get it the way you want it?