05edge's V8 swap
#76
#77
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#79
Not much to update. The guy from the machine shop didn't answer at all yesterday. I got a hold of him today, he tells me he has the pistons. Great you better have a lot more then that for $350. Then he tells me he got messed up from the holiday and it will be ready by Tuesday at the latest. All he's doing is the machine work, freeze plugs, cam bearings, and ordering the piston kit, I'm doing everything else...
I got my bolt kit in from summit today. It came with every bolt I need for the whole block for $170 not bad. So now I have everything to rebuild this engine, except for the block. Awesome.
I got my bolt kit in from summit today. It came with every bolt I need for the whole block for $170 not bad. So now I have everything to rebuild this engine, except for the block. Awesome.
#80
I will somewhat agree with you. It doesnt cool better however. Also how do you plan to run coolant back there? I really need to convert my hoses to tubes along the frame rail. It just keeps getting way to hot. I cant drive 10 minutes down the highway without the temps reaching 210.
#81
I will somewhat agree with you. It doesnt cool better however. Also how do you plan to run coolant back there? I really need to convert my hoses to tubes along the frame rail. It just keeps getting way to hot. I cant drive 10 minutes down the highway without the temps reaching 210.
#83
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#97
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Glancing back through the thread it appears that this is your first rebuild ?
If I am correct and I did not reread all of the post, but things to watch:
-End gap on rings, each rings needs to be placed in the upper section of the cyclones and the end gap measured, keep the gaps to the low side of the tolerance. Gp filing and clean up needs to be done out of the block and then re fit and re measure back in the block.
-make sure to place the end gaps on opposite sides of the pistons, staggering each one.
Did you have the crank turned and who purchased the bearings ?
The machine shop that does the machining should get the parts to match the machined block and crank. You can get them but you need to check and recheck all of the parts for size and in turn for tolerances.
Cylinder size vs piston and ring size.
Ring end gap as mentioned above.
Crank journal size vs bearing size and don't just take the package stated size. You need to assembly all of the mains with the bearing in place but no crank, the same for the rods, and measure the ID of the bearings, then measure the crank journals and find the difference and determine if it is within tolerance.
And then there is finding max travel for the piston, top dead center on each piston, after assembling the crank, rods and block, find out if there is enough room for the valves when the engine is running, especially in the higher rpm ranges while running the mud.
Sorry to mention this stuff if it has been mentioned before but just check everything it is important for an engine that is expected to run a long dependable and yet powerful life. A bearing that has too much or even not enough clearance will burn up a crank. Ring end gaps that are too big will allow,what is clued the Black Death or blow by and will rob some of the power from the motor.
Good luck on the engine build, it is very gratifying when the engine fires up and runs well.
I only mention this stuff because of my own first engine rebuild.
If I am correct and I did not reread all of the post, but things to watch:
-End gap on rings, each rings needs to be placed in the upper section of the cyclones and the end gap measured, keep the gaps to the low side of the tolerance. Gp filing and clean up needs to be done out of the block and then re fit and re measure back in the block.
-make sure to place the end gaps on opposite sides of the pistons, staggering each one.
Did you have the crank turned and who purchased the bearings ?
The machine shop that does the machining should get the parts to match the machined block and crank. You can get them but you need to check and recheck all of the parts for size and in turn for tolerances.
Cylinder size vs piston and ring size.
Ring end gap as mentioned above.
Crank journal size vs bearing size and don't just take the package stated size. You need to assembly all of the mains with the bearing in place but no crank, the same for the rods, and measure the ID of the bearings, then measure the crank journals and find the difference and determine if it is within tolerance.
And then there is finding max travel for the piston, top dead center on each piston, after assembling the crank, rods and block, find out if there is enough room for the valves when the engine is running, especially in the higher rpm ranges while running the mud.
Sorry to mention this stuff if it has been mentioned before but just check everything it is important for an engine that is expected to run a long dependable and yet powerful life. A bearing that has too much or even not enough clearance will burn up a crank. Ring end gaps that are too big will allow,what is clued the Black Death or blow by and will rob some of the power from the motor.
Good luck on the engine build, it is very gratifying when the engine fires up and runs well.
I only mention this stuff because of my own first engine rebuild.
#98
I'm definitely looking forward to the day I go to start it. Im getting excited about it already! Im planning on opening my own shop, where I do these kinds of builds. I want to go into the direction of fabrication and performance stuff. My ranger has been my lab rat.
#100
Well I should have gotten a lot done today, but this stopped me.
That's supposed to sit flush and no matter what I do I can get it down. When I put the crank in and tighten it down, it doesn't suck it in and binds the crank. Any idea if you can order just the thrust bearing?
That's supposed to sit flush and no matter what I do I can get it down. When I put the crank in and tighten it down, it doesn't suck it in and binds the crank. Any idea if you can order just the thrust bearing?
Last edited by 05edge; 09-14-2013 at 05:03 PM.