hey everyone im just getting ready to begin one of my most interesting projects, so im going to start posting here for all my progress as it starts falling together. ill also be asking any questions and ill also be looking for feedback on anything ill be posting.

ill be working on my fairly new 08' ranger sport 2wd w/ auto 3.0L...

my first stage of my ranger was honestly not intended to lead me to all the hassle im about to get into. ive currently got my ranger set up with fabtech spindles, aal, and clear a 32"x11.5 tire with no trimming on a 15x8 wheel. it just isnt enough of a truck for me.. with one winter down on the truck, in this set up proved i needed to do more to keep me driving and keep me from getting stuck. i also want to be able to do some moderate offroad and tackle some trails in and out of my area. and in the end it still needs to be my daily driver and be as reliable as i can get it.

i plan to build this up in 3 stages and my first area of construction will be to get a functional driveline, and eventually install it. ive been having an incredibely hard time trying to find a B/W1354m. i finially found a t case from a 1996 mazda and started on getting it cleaned up and torn apart.

 

overall im impressed with the condition. it came out of a 1996 mazda and has just about 200000 miles on it, as im told. got it at lunch this afternoon and cleaned up the outside a bit and when i got home i tore into it to see what damage was done in 200000 miles. but every thing looks to be in sound shape.

i only noticed very minor chipping on the planetary set but im sure its nothing to worry about, ill show a picture to show what im talking about, you will notice a pattern of 2 chips per tooth where something got ground in there at some time in its last life..

 

its so new though!!!!!!!!!!!

Why not just buy a beater 4x4??????

 

more pics of the tear down, next ill just be cleaning it up and stripping the last few sections of the housings for clean up

 

im not overly sure what to replace because most of the parts looks fine, the ball bearings on the outputs feel a little run out but no slop and the roller bearing inside the planetary feels slightly gritty but usable.

>should i just go for a basic seal replacement or go with a full bearing replacement also?

>does anyone know how to release the planetary set from the transfercase back plate?

>is there anything else i should take a close look at?, as this is a first time at driveline repair for me, so i dont know exactly what to look for

 

best time to do it lol no rusty bolts

 

But you could buy a cheap 4x4 for about the same amount as you have into your SAS swap and then you would still have a reliable rig to drive around!!!! but thats just my 0.02

good luck to you on the swap!

 

Good luck man.


Yeah...aren't these Tcases easy to take apart!?? hahaha. I got two apart right now. Can't get the damn planetary out of it for clean up and inspection though.

 

2wd FTL. When I first read the title of this thread I thought, "thats stupid to do to such a new truck." After reading that he has a 2wd I understand what he's doing completely.

 

ya same deal here i think the removal of the planetary has something to do with the large clip behind the gear set but i cant make out what to do with it yet.

the clip im talking about is part 5 in this drawing;
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9616694/1354-Manual-TCase

 

Good luck on the build! Gonna be the first 06+ SAS I've seen...

 

Cory07ranger4x4 on here SAS'd a 07

 

make shift wash bin, and removing old sealents. mineral spirits and gasket remover are good things, just dont breath to deep..

 

my vac. switch on my case is broken but im just wondering since im 2wd do i use the vac. switch on my t case? what does it do? does it just activate the 4x4 lights im assuming? and where is a good place to run a line from the vent nipple? just inside the firewall someplace? im very likely just to close up the vac. because i dont see it playing any importance in the function of the case in my truck

 

nice good luck with the sas

how high i wanna go? going spring or coilover

 

not looking for alot more height but just enough to make it a bit more aggressive, and i will leaf the front unless i find a good coil setup

 

ive pulled a bearing from one of the outputs and im pretty sure its usable but its not ideal. i want to get alot of milage out of this vehicle so im going to replace all of the bearings and seals and call it complete. maybe $100 to complete the rebuild when i order the parts, ill find out tomorrow. ill also use all new hardware and plug that vac switch in time..

prep for sandblasting the case halves,

i find using vinal electrical tape makes really good masking tape to pick out good lines and sticks quite well, i filled big areas with simple spread paper used normally for covering a doctors bench, but works well.

 

Ballsy man.. good luck, what axles?

They're easy to take apart but it took my buddy and I a few hours to figure out how to get it back together.

coilovers have springs...?

 

dana 44 hp and ford 8.8, full width most likely. im not at that stage as of yet..

they really are not that complicated of a project to tackle, you just need to think about what you are doing and how you go do it, take lots of pictures of things if it helps for re-assembly. and it always helps if you have the right equiptment to rely on. i would reccomend this rebuild for anyone who can follow those hints.

 

good progress today but i made a few mistakes,

the sandblaster was acting up today but i managed to get the first half of the case restored as new, and also hit the rear drivshaft output and cleaned that up. i also dipped the output in black oxide, looks pretty nice now.

i also managed to get the snap ring to release the planetary. i was trying to seperate the prongs but i actually needed to compress the spring clip instead because it rests inside of a lip not on the outside, duhhh lol. i just couldnt picture how it was together last night but now i got it..

now for my mistake of the week,
as i was finially removing the bearing off of the planetary set. i engaged my bearing puller and began wrenching on it, and as i did, i noticed my placement of my tool was far from ideal. i had put the threaded center from the tool down into the input spline and right ontop of a thin case of the needle/roller bearing for the main shaft. i didnt realize what my tool was putting its leverage on. but by the time i realized what i had done i already had a nice hole poking through the bearing case lol. replaceable but quite dumb of me. i then persisted my bearing removal by using a block on top of the input to put my leverage on and ting, ting ting, pop! it was off..

to fix the damage i removed the center shaft of the planetary and quite easily knocked through the holy bearing and the brass bushing, which i will also replace now, since i have it out..

now to progress my teardown i will need to find, or modify a socket that clears the front drive flange pocket to remove the nut on the front shaft. the clearance is to tight to get an ordinary socket in there. for now all my cleaned and restored parts are organised and stored awaiting the next step,, assembly..

 

hey, nice project, good luck with the build, it's cool to see someone who's not afraid to cut up a new truck.
a couple things, I think those "nicks" on the planetary gears are normal, cause the two cases I have seen are the same. and that vac switch is the 4x4 indicator switch. from the pics, that case looks pretty good.

 

Yeah...I'm stuck on that damn front output nut too! Please post up how you jerryed up a socket for us. All I'm needing to do is swap front outputs to make one good case.

 

I have some special sockets that ford used that are very very thin wall and go all the way up to a 32mm check at your auto parts store for bearing nuts. They should have something.

 

ehmm yeah :P lol.... leafs.. well he got the idea going

 

the output nut is a 30mm socket but nothing i had would fit, i ended up taking the case in to ford and they poped it off for me easy as pie. the bearing behind it is pressed in, a few good evenly aplied taps is enough to free it though. but use a puller if you have one.