99ranger4x4s SAS thread
#101
as for shackles in the back, i think i need to do what 034x4 did and get some shorter springs, with these ones the bushing for a rear shackle would be about an inch away from the exhaust collector and i dont see that lasting too long
i know.. thats why im staying off the highway for a while haha
i basically did a mini c-notch in the frame, about 1" up and welded in a piece of 2"x.250" DOM then put the bushing i that
i know
its on the list.. but the rear axle, front drive shaft and a few other things have much higher priority
i just kinda jumped into this project when i got the opportunity so i was getting by on my monthly living checks and pay checks from work..
and cross over is probably what i'll run once i get some spare cash.. then if the tie rod gets too messed up i'll go high steer
its on the list.. but the rear axle, front drive shaft and a few other things have much higher priority
i just kinda jumped into this project when i got the opportunity so i was getting by on my monthly living checks and pay checks from work..
and cross over is probably what i'll run once i get some spare cash.. then if the tie rod gets too messed up i'll go high steer
#102
#106
#107
#108
got some new toys today, i want to get them on tomorrow morning but maybe i'll just do bump stops and do the shocks friday since i dont work..
i knew i should have got the 14" hoops with the 12" shocks
does anyone want to venture a guess what hits what when i stuff the driver tire? haha
the drag link. i think i'm going to weld a piece of the 2x4 to the frame and bolt the bump stops to that..
Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 10-01-2008 at 04:58 PM.
#110
huh?
some 5125 12" Travel Bilsteins.
12" Shock hoops and braces
bump stops
and some massive stickers that take up most of my half door windows lol
oh yea, i got a steering stabilizer. $33
i should have all this mounted between tomorrow and Friday morning
some 5125 12" Travel Bilsteins.
12" Shock hoops and braces
bump stops
and some massive stickers that take up most of my half door windows lol
oh yea, i got a steering stabilizer. $33
i should have all this mounted between tomorrow and Friday morning
Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 10-02-2008 at 12:22 AM.
#111
so i attempted to paint the diff cover today.. then it started raining so i put it on the porch and tried blocking the rain and it kept getting on it, so i brought it inside. One thing lead to another and it hit the carpet, by then i was getting pretty frustrated and said screw it. needless to say the paint job looks like ****.
when i get home in Texas and pull the steering to make it look nice i'll repaint the cover.
but hey, i painted the 'Pumpkin' - "Pumpkin Orange" cleaver eh? I'm going for the Cream sickle look diff covers, knuckles, maybe the wheels. All orange
Also: I got the shocks on, and the bump stops.. they ride about 1/2" off the spring plate on the driver side and ~3/4-1" on the pass. side, so i'm hitting them all the time but i wanted to eliminate the possibility of the spring and pitman arm coming in contact while keeping them near the same distance below the frame.
Its a stiff ride now, but the steering isn't shaky anymore and i had it up to 60 today w/ no issues, time for an alignment.
the gas tank is almost empty, and i started w/ 3/4 tank and so far no leaning, i think what my partner did was make the driver perch 3/8" higher to compensate for the 'ranger lean' and it seems to be working pretty damn well.
when i get home in Texas and pull the steering to make it look nice i'll repaint the cover.
but hey, i painted the 'Pumpkin' - "Pumpkin Orange" cleaver eh? I'm going for the Cream sickle look diff covers, knuckles, maybe the wheels. All orange
Also: I got the shocks on, and the bump stops.. they ride about 1/2" off the spring plate on the driver side and ~3/4-1" on the pass. side, so i'm hitting them all the time but i wanted to eliminate the possibility of the spring and pitman arm coming in contact while keeping them near the same distance below the frame.
Its a stiff ride now, but the steering isn't shaky anymore and i had it up to 60 today w/ no issues, time for an alignment.
the gas tank is almost empty, and i started w/ 3/4 tank and so far no leaning, i think what my partner did was make the driver perch 3/8" higher to compensate for the 'ranger lean' and it seems to be working pretty damn well.
Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 10-04-2008 at 01:55 AM.
#115
#116
it'll be on a trailer going through Denver next wednesday. haha
we may stop in to Colorado springs and see the grand parents idk. I'll let you know
as for death wobble, it hasn't happened since Monday and since i put the shocks on. but i do agree, i need to get all the steering geometry correct not only for death wobble
we may stop in to Colorado springs and see the grand parents idk. I'll let you know
as for death wobble, it hasn't happened since Monday and since i put the shocks on. but i do agree, i need to get all the steering geometry correct not only for death wobble
#117
Yo, been keeping up with you on Facebook & AIM. Good job, Matt. Hell, I wouldn't want to work out those geometry nightmares! Besides, I'm still working out welding back body rust issues & Hell holes with my project (not Supra this time)...
Are you trailering her all the way back down to Texas?
When's the last day she needs to be complete?
And just a question (perhaps for Zach or someone else), as I have no experience with a SAS: Is it possible to drop the gearbox down 6" or so (drop plate, since it's only bolted to the left frame rail with 3 bolts) to accommodate a better tie-rod/draglink angle for potentially less bumpsteer?
/Subcribed.
Pete
Are you trailering her all the way back down to Texas?
When's the last day she needs to be complete?
And just a question (perhaps for Zach or someone else), as I have no experience with a SAS: Is it possible to drop the gearbox down 6" or so (drop plate, since it's only bolted to the left frame rail with 3 bolts) to accommodate a better tie-rod/draglink angle for potentially less bumpsteer?
/Subcribed.
Pete
#118
And just a question (perhaps for Zach or someone else), as I have no experience with a SAS: Is it possible to drop the gearbox down 6" or so (drop plate, since it's only bolted to the left frame rail with 3 bolts) to accommodate a better tie-rod/draglink angle for potentially less bumpsteer?
#119
I wouldn't
not with leaf springs for one and for 2 like he said, due to the forces exerted on the frame in that place, i have the frame plated on both sides with 1/4" plate and the 3 holes are sleeved with 3/4"x.120" DOM. When i get money the first thing on my list is to do cross over steering with 1 ton TREs, i haven't really had an issue with bump steer, but i have also kept it on the pavement
Friday will bring that demon out.
i the reason i have the drag link coming off the top of the pitman arm is so i could allow for some more up travel w/o hitting the bolt, i have virtually none now due to where i put the bump stops but before that when the driver tire was tucked turned slightly driver the drag link was touching the leaf pack so i need to keep that from happening
Uhm, what now.
Yes, its getting trailered back to Texas, I may stop off and see Wayne, maybe see if i cant toss my truck up on the RTI ramp then drive it the rest of the way to Austin lol. The U-haul people said we can trailer a Ranger, little do they know its got ~10" of lift and a FW axle in the front heh.
sorry if half that **** doesn't make sense. its 3 am and I'm a lil' tired
not with leaf springs for one and for 2 like he said, due to the forces exerted on the frame in that place, i have the frame plated on both sides with 1/4" plate and the 3 holes are sleeved with 3/4"x.120" DOM. When i get money the first thing on my list is to do cross over steering with 1 ton TREs, i haven't really had an issue with bump steer, but i have also kept it on the pavement
Friday will bring that demon out.
i the reason i have the drag link coming off the top of the pitman arm is so i could allow for some more up travel w/o hitting the bolt, i have virtually none now due to where i put the bump stops but before that when the driver tire was tucked turned slightly driver the drag link was touching the leaf pack so i need to keep that from happening
Uhm, what now.
Yes, its getting trailered back to Texas, I may stop off and see Wayne, maybe see if i cant toss my truck up on the RTI ramp then drive it the rest of the way to Austin lol. The U-haul people said we can trailer a Ranger, little do they know its got ~10" of lift and a FW axle in the front heh.
sorry if half that **** doesn't make sense. its 3 am and I'm a lil' tired
#120
i figured i would put a little update in here for anyone reading over it and hasn't seen my other thread.
I got a Ruff Stuff Diff cover for my D44.. I would recommend one to everyone.. its the cheapest after market cover out there and its already paid for it self a few times..
I welded up a winch plate with some bracing, as well as hacked apart the header panel and core support to squeeze the winch in.. but it fits
and i put a rollerless fair lead on.. seems to work really good, and it doesn't stick out any farther than the grill which is very nice..
I had Kevan (badkarma) make me a square front drive shaft, i gave him a drive shaft off an old chevy/jimmy, he cut the ends off and welded some 3/16" wall square tubing in.. braced both ends, has solid stock on the inside thats been drilled into from the outside and welded up.. its not going anywhere..
Somewhere in there we half-*** dove tailed it.. I'm going to fill in the area up with a spare tire, hi-lift mount, re arrange the cooler situation so i can have 2 at the back easier to get to..
And since i ripped out the front output shaft on my t-case, i found out the axle went down too far for the driveshaft and made the t-case the slip joint so i got some 25" Beard/Red Art limit straps, they seem to have served their purpose, i didn't break the t-case on my last trip.
I still need to redo the rear spring perches cause their all caddy wompus, springs are doin funny **** and the pinion angle is all jacked. Then I need a traction bar. I may just do like 4" lift springs and do spring under, which will allow me to get more up travel w/o the pitman arm hitting the springs.
and heres what it looks like as of the last run out.
I got a Ruff Stuff Diff cover for my D44.. I would recommend one to everyone.. its the cheapest after market cover out there and its already paid for it self a few times..
I welded up a winch plate with some bracing, as well as hacked apart the header panel and core support to squeeze the winch in.. but it fits
and i put a rollerless fair lead on.. seems to work really good, and it doesn't stick out any farther than the grill which is very nice..
I had Kevan (badkarma) make me a square front drive shaft, i gave him a drive shaft off an old chevy/jimmy, he cut the ends off and welded some 3/16" wall square tubing in.. braced both ends, has solid stock on the inside thats been drilled into from the outside and welded up.. its not going anywhere..
Somewhere in there we half-*** dove tailed it.. I'm going to fill in the area up with a spare tire, hi-lift mount, re arrange the cooler situation so i can have 2 at the back easier to get to..
And since i ripped out the front output shaft on my t-case, i found out the axle went down too far for the driveshaft and made the t-case the slip joint so i got some 25" Beard/Red Art limit straps, they seem to have served their purpose, i didn't break the t-case on my last trip.
I still need to redo the rear spring perches cause their all caddy wompus, springs are doin funny **** and the pinion angle is all jacked. Then I need a traction bar. I may just do like 4" lift springs and do spring under, which will allow me to get more up travel w/o the pitman arm hitting the springs.
and heres what it looks like as of the last run out.
Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 03-17-2009 at 12:01 PM.
#125