BDod's Daily Driver Four Banger Build-Up (formerly MasteratArms93's)
#51
#53
Here you go.
They are called Patterson Auto Wrecking. Located up in Cochranton, PA.
https://www.facebook.com/patterson.autowrecking
http://www.pattersonaw.com/
They are called Patterson Auto Wrecking. Located up in Cochranton, PA.
https://www.facebook.com/patterson.autowrecking
http://www.pattersonaw.com/
#54
Planning phase is almost done.
I'm working out the details of when I can drop my truck off to my mechanic in the next few weeks, get myself a rental car, and still make it to class and work without missing.
Here is a list of all the parts I am having installed:
(2) Bendix Front Rotors - 10.28 inch
(2) Bendix Rear Drums - 10 inch
Power Stop Ceramic Pads
Bendix Brake Shoes
Beck/Arnley Drum Hardware
(4) Pro-Comp ES9000 shocks with four shock boots in red.
(2) MOOG Inner Tie Rod Ends
(2) MOOG Outer Tie Rod Ends
(2) FORD PARTS - Rear Axle Bearing Assembly for the FX4 LVL 2 rear - (Ford Part Number #1225)
Crown Suspension 2" Lift Springs with correct rates for engine weight.
I'm also finally having my Pro-Comp AAL kit installed on the rear along with the 31-spline axle I found to replace the bent one on now.
All rear end fluid is also being changed out with full-synthetic diff fluid and trac-loc additive.
Looking at gaining at least 2 inches on top of the 3 inch spindles already on the truck for mean looking 5 inch total. Not bad for a single cab on 33x12.50x15's.
I'm having my mechanic order the wheel bearings for the rest of the truck while he is at it. My goal right now is to prep this thing for a mean, Ohio winter. I really enjoy drifting my truck and I don't mean power sliding.
In the winter, this truck might as well be a 240sx. It is the funnest vehicle I've ever owned to drive in the winter time. Period.
I've read up that one of the weakest points of the Ranger is the tie rods...I found a really high-end set, but couldn't afford the 300.00 bucks for them. I think it was on Camburg's site I might have seen them. Looked worth it for people that like to thrash a little bit on their rigs.
Had to put the sound system on hold for now while I pay some more important bills.
Stay tuned for actual pictures with my next update.
I'm working out the details of when I can drop my truck off to my mechanic in the next few weeks, get myself a rental car, and still make it to class and work without missing.
Here is a list of all the parts I am having installed:
(2) Bendix Front Rotors - 10.28 inch
(2) Bendix Rear Drums - 10 inch
Power Stop Ceramic Pads
Bendix Brake Shoes
Beck/Arnley Drum Hardware
(4) Pro-Comp ES9000 shocks with four shock boots in red.
(2) MOOG Inner Tie Rod Ends
(2) MOOG Outer Tie Rod Ends
(2) FORD PARTS - Rear Axle Bearing Assembly for the FX4 LVL 2 rear - (Ford Part Number #1225)
Crown Suspension 2" Lift Springs with correct rates for engine weight.
I'm also finally having my Pro-Comp AAL kit installed on the rear along with the 31-spline axle I found to replace the bent one on now.
All rear end fluid is also being changed out with full-synthetic diff fluid and trac-loc additive.
Looking at gaining at least 2 inches on top of the 3 inch spindles already on the truck for mean looking 5 inch total. Not bad for a single cab on 33x12.50x15's.
I'm having my mechanic order the wheel bearings for the rest of the truck while he is at it. My goal right now is to prep this thing for a mean, Ohio winter. I really enjoy drifting my truck and I don't mean power sliding.
In the winter, this truck might as well be a 240sx. It is the funnest vehicle I've ever owned to drive in the winter time. Period.
I've read up that one of the weakest points of the Ranger is the tie rods...I found a really high-end set, but couldn't afford the 300.00 bucks for them. I think it was on Camburg's site I might have seen them. Looked worth it for people that like to thrash a little bit on their rigs.
Had to put the sound system on hold for now while I pay some more important bills.
Stay tuned for actual pictures with my next update.
#55
#57
#58
#59
#62
Ah, someone else dealing with Ohio slowly killing their truck. I'm in the middle of replacing the rear shackles on mine and painting the frame. I also need doors but I don't think I'm going to go that far.
Those 33s look good on there man. I'm getting ready to put 265x75x16s Cooper ST Max on mine. Hope it looks as good as yours. I drive too many miles to lift it and go bigger.
Those 33s look good on there man. I'm getting ready to put 265x75x16s Cooper ST Max on mine. Hope it looks as good as yours. I drive too many miles to lift it and go bigger.
#63
Thanks man.
^ For sure! Ohio is a b**** to keep any vehicle of value (sentimental or otherwise) up to par. Just snowed in Cleveland and north of Akron today.
I'm picking up a few cans of black rustoleum to coat the frame and inner bed sides to just slow the rust and keep corrosion at bay. I definitely am having the rocker panels and cab corners cut out and replaced and have been HEAVILY leaning towards fiberglass fenders and bedsides for when it gets repainted.
I just don't want to deal with the rust again after fixing it...
Those Cooper ST's should look pretty sweet.
^ For sure! Ohio is a b**** to keep any vehicle of value (sentimental or otherwise) up to par. Just snowed in Cleveland and north of Akron today.
I'm picking up a few cans of black rustoleum to coat the frame and inner bed sides to just slow the rust and keep corrosion at bay. I definitely am having the rocker panels and cab corners cut out and replaced and have been HEAVILY leaning towards fiberglass fenders and bedsides for when it gets repainted.
I just don't want to deal with the rust again after fixing it...
Those Cooper ST's should look pretty sweet.
#67
It rides great.
My old springs were on their way out. You could hear them creek super bad on hard turns and the shocks were also in need of replacing so I'm glad I got them on there.
As everyone says in terms of shocks, the Pro Comp ES9000's ride a little stiff, but my old stock set up was pretty bouncy. This definitely feels firm, but I feel good about the parts used on this thing so far.
Now when I say it rides firm I mean, it doesn't ride like a new F150 would off the lot or something like that, but it feels more modern to me from being stiffened up by how new and crispy everything is. The real test lies in seeing how well this all wears together over time. I think it feels more solid and is still very comfy for a daily driver.
While I have stated up front this isn't really a trail rig at all, it really shines in the deep snow so I am interested to see how it will handle being higher up, the stiffer set up, and with the 33's.
Pics coming soon. My D3300 is on the fritz.
#68
The bad thing right now is the old original manifold is cracked or has a hole in it and from what it looks like after getting some solid advice from Ron, the pulse damper needs replaced after checking things out.
Got a few little kinks to work out.
I can't wait to finally get to be able to spend some money on the "system" (4 aftermarket 6x8's powered by a 4 channel amp and a new head unit) so I can have some tunes again. No music is KILLING ME!
I'm also debating ordering a manifold from a junk yard or going with the autozone manifold (Duralast brand? Cast?) to have something new...Not sure yet on that as the truck runs decent still, but gotta fix this in the next weekend or two.
Got a few little kinks to work out.
I can't wait to finally get to be able to spend some money on the "system" (4 aftermarket 6x8's powered by a 4 channel amp and a new head unit) so I can have some tunes again. No music is KILLING ME!
I'm also debating ordering a manifold from a junk yard or going with the autozone manifold (Duralast brand? Cast?) to have something new...Not sure yet on that as the truck runs decent still, but gotta fix this in the next weekend or two.
#69
Long time no update!
Still looking for a camera to replace my Nikon, but I found these pics my mechanic sent me when the build was taking place.
Had a defective ES9000 (leaking) and returned them to Summit for a refund for some RS5000s. (Yes, I know they are manufactured on the same line.)
The reason I didn't just get another ES9000 was because Pro Comp told me over the phone they couldn't get it to me until March 6th and I just needed it now and the RS5000s were the perfect length for my suspension set up already and were in stock that same day. Eh, call it some hassle, but whatever, it is over with now and I enjoy the RS5000s. They are a little smoother and not as harsh as the ES9000s were. Summit gave my money back to me and did an exchange with no problems at all.
I also have a 97 2.3 tubular manifold on this baby. I'll get some better pics when I get a better camera again soon.
Yes, it was salty during this build.
5 inches of lift on 33's.
Still looking for a camera to replace my Nikon, but I found these pics my mechanic sent me when the build was taking place.
Had a defective ES9000 (leaking) and returned them to Summit for a refund for some RS5000s. (Yes, I know they are manufactured on the same line.)
The reason I didn't just get another ES9000 was because Pro Comp told me over the phone they couldn't get it to me until March 6th and I just needed it now and the RS5000s were the perfect length for my suspension set up already and were in stock that same day. Eh, call it some hassle, but whatever, it is over with now and I enjoy the RS5000s. They are a little smoother and not as harsh as the ES9000s were. Summit gave my money back to me and did an exchange with no problems at all.
I also have a 97 2.3 tubular manifold on this baby. I'll get some better pics when I get a better camera again soon.
Yes, it was salty during this build.
5 inches of lift on 33's.
#72
Not sure about the offset, but I know they are Eagle alloys with a 4.75 backspace (I think, not positive.)
Replaced a ton of the little stuff while it was down.
The fronts had new wheel bearings put in while the brakes were replaced and the rear had both the axle bearings replaced when the bent axle that plagued MasteratArms93 was finally removed and replaced.
Gonna start planning body repair stuff out for it through this year and start collecting fiberglass pieces.
The next step is looking for a good, non-rusted bed box.
#74
Well I guess I should've implied a little more that I meant a rust free BED with a clean and rust free internal BOX. That way I can have a much better surface to work with when I order my fiberglass sides and they will have something more solid than what I have now to mount to. It will result in a nicer end product too as I still need my bed to be somewhat functional with my hobbies.
#75