DWB 4x4 LT
#1101
Just thinking out loud here. I've been doing a lot of that and building parts lists online and I think I have yet another possible plan. let me know what you think.
-302: build using some stock parts, AFR heads, gt40 intake porting, cam, +other new flashy stuff that adds up plus crappy wiring to try and minimize etc.
-4.6 SOHC: Because I already have the whole front off and I don't have A/C and I can add a joint to the steering shaft to outboard it more to make room. I also plan on making new shock towers that don't intrude as much. And to make this a real simple sweet swap I can go Victor Jr. intake with carb and computer control kit for much less than AFR heads on my 302. Just port the stock heads and add new cams and be done(for now lol) So it would be cool factor and something different and I LOVE SIMPLE WIRING. And should get near the 400hp I was looking for. And I honestly think I would spend less on the 4.6 swap. I still can use my current trans and T-case which is nice. Already sold my gt40p heads for some extra cash and I could unload plenty of the explorer V8 parts for some more too.
only problem for the 4.6 is that I need a lower psi fuel pump and regular if I go carbed. so hopefully I could sell the ones I got now. edit: actually I think I can use the pump still ,just need a bypass regulator with lower psi rating and lower psi gauge.
-302: build using some stock parts, AFR heads, gt40 intake porting, cam, +other new flashy stuff that adds up plus crappy wiring to try and minimize etc.
-4.6 SOHC: Because I already have the whole front off and I don't have A/C and I can add a joint to the steering shaft to outboard it more to make room. I also plan on making new shock towers that don't intrude as much. And to make this a real simple sweet swap I can go Victor Jr. intake with carb and computer control kit for much less than AFR heads on my 302. Just port the stock heads and add new cams and be done(for now lol) So it would be cool factor and something different and I LOVE SIMPLE WIRING. And should get near the 400hp I was looking for. And I honestly think I would spend less on the 4.6 swap. I still can use my current trans and T-case which is nice. Already sold my gt40p heads for some extra cash and I could unload plenty of the explorer V8 parts for some more too.
only problem for the 4.6 is that I need a lower psi fuel pump and regular if I go carbed. so hopefully I could sell the ones I got now. edit: actually I think I can use the pump still ,just need a bypass regulator with lower psi rating and lower psi gauge.
Last edited by INT3RC3PTOR; 03-05-2014 at 05:30 PM.
#1105
#1108
is that so
I may just explore going carb on the 302. stroke it to 331 with a .030 over for rebuild. I just look at my Nove engine bay and I want that so bad for my rangers bay.
#1110
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
New tech 5.0L Coyote, hard to beat for the more advanced situations but for a truck, a Ranger truck the easier something is to do the better the results... just my opinion.
Hard to beat the straight in intake port of the new 5.0, the overhead cams, they spell rpm and they whine and not in a bad way.
If I was building a Cobra or a 68 Mustang convertible, I would go 5.0L Coyote but for my ranger I would go with the 5.0L W for sur.
Hard to beat the straight in intake port of the new 5.0, the overhead cams, they spell rpm and they whine and not in a bad way.
If I was building a Cobra or a 68 Mustang convertible, I would go 5.0L Coyote but for my ranger I would go with the 5.0L W for sur.
#1112
Yep,if I was a 2wd beam truck you can have the coilovers pretty wide set compared to the frame rails. But being 4wd A-arm the hoops are right off the rails and doesn't really leave much for headers. I plan on adding bypasses on the front. So I'll be making new towers out of plate that outboard them more and connect to the engine cage etc.
I'm back to just using the sploder I think. Just need to decide if I go standard rebuild 306 .030 over if it needs it and call it good. Or go 331 Stroker :)
I'm back to just using the sploder I think. Just need to decide if I go standard rebuild 306 .030 over if it needs it and call it good. Or go 331 Stroker :)
#1114
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
306 will provide all the power you need and cost less to have a good rebuild but a 331 is really nice too.
If the block is in good condition and doesn't require a cleanup bore job, use the 331 stroker crank and rods but keep the stock bore, I think you end up with a 327 cu in motor; a good bore to stroke ratio.
Good Luck
Last edited by Scrambler82; 03-08-2014 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Spell check
#1116
Staying with the 5.0L W is a good move.
even better, I had a slapped out 3.0 before
306 will provide all the power you need and cost less to have a good rebuild but a 331 is really nice too.
If the block is in good condition and doesn't require a cleanup bore job, use the 331 striker crank and rods but keep the stock bore, I think you end up with a 327 cu in motor; a good bore to stroke ratio.
Good Luck
even better, I had a slapped out 3.0 before
306 will provide all the power you need and cost less to have a good rebuild but a 331 is really nice too.
If the block is in good condition and doesn't require a cleanup bore job, use the 331 striker crank and rods but keep the stock bore, I think you end up with a 327 cu in motor; a good bore to stroke ratio.
Good Luck
haha yes you were, you and yer damned 5.4! get that think blown already. your truck is not the same without hearing some whine coming from it haha
#1117
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Let me know how the 327 works out.
One more thing,if you do a stroker, keep the longest connecting rod you can.
The rod length is dependent on the stroke but you can increase the rod length and raise the wrist pin in the piston.
The longer rod helps with the angle the crank/rod needs to push at the piston and reduces the force needed to move the piston so it should release some more power. Also, the longer rod increases Sewell time of the piston at the bottom and top of the stroke and give a little more power too... just something to think about.
One more thing,if you do a stroker, keep the longest connecting rod you can.
The rod length is dependent on the stroke but you can increase the rod length and raise the wrist pin in the piston.
The longer rod helps with the angle the crank/rod needs to push at the piston and reduces the force needed to move the piston so it should release some more power. Also, the longer rod increases Sewell time of the piston at the bottom and top of the stroke and give a little more power too... just something to think about.
#1121
#1122