Rust-O-Leum Black is a good option

 

I'm not sure how I 'll hook up the p-brake yet, I like making mods like this look factory so it's going to be tough.

I was thinking Rust-O-Leum since I'm on a really tight budget.

 

if you want to hook up the parking brake you need everything from the axle to the frame for parking brake cables.

also for paint, id just go to walmart and buy some $1 can of a primer and $1 cans of gloss black. its what i use.

 

on my 8.8 i sprayed it with a flat black primer then with car quest rubberized undercoating and then with either black Rust-O-Leum or just flat black paint.. not sure but what ever i sprayed on top of the rubberized undercoating hardened up very good it is as hard as a rock and hasnt peeled or anything when i power wash it

 

UPDATE:
Research has told me that the front P-brake cable is the same on both the Exploder and the Ranger, all I need to make it work would be the intermediate and rear cables. I just bought a used R&P, so that should be here soon, and the housing should be finished up within a week. I might be able to pick up a new LSD carrier for cheap at the Pick-N-Pull, so that will help. Picked up new seals and inner pinion bearing just in case I need it. All the bearing are still good so we'll see. Just need rotors, pads, shoes, spring kit, R&P kit, and brake lines.

 

nice! I'm headed over the pick and pull in the morning to go pull mine. hot water pressure washing to follow, then possibly even stripping the darn thing down tomorrow as well.

 

Nice, good luck with that. I can't wait to get mine back so I can get back to work on it.

 

UPDATE:
Started picking up parts to start reassembling my axle when I get it back.
New pads:


New seals and inner pinion bearing:

New brake line:

 

Nice!

 

Thanks. Here's the tally of everything so far:
Axle: $109.32
Pinion seal and axle seals: $13.74
Pinion Bearing: $15.40
Wearever Silver pads and 3/16"x60" coated brake line: $24.85
Current Total: $163.31
I don't think thats too bad so far.

 

Do you have any idea on how you are making sure the perches are welded on correctly to insure the pinion angle in correct?

I ask because I have the same axle for my 84 B2 and was thinkin about that the other day.

 

Brian, take the axle and slide it under the B2, put the perches where you think they go and tighten up the axle with the ubolts, not too tight, then adjust the pinion angle, make it square and even side to side then tack weld the perches.

pull the axle back out and weld it up!

ive done 3-4 axles this way

 

Thanx Zach.

What is the best method for measuring it? On my drag cars/trucks I always make the pinion angle -2º of the crank centerline.....that dont seem right on a 4x4 truck like my B2. Do I just set it based off the rear driveshaft angle?

 

Zach's right, and I'm just making them parallel to the pinion, which was parallel to the t-case output.

 

UPDATE:
Got my R&P in yesterday. Now I just need to find someone to install it cheap. And I saw my new shock mounts... 1/4" plate... Heavy as hell, I like em. LOL

 

trying not to hack....but...since i did mention this in this thread....MY TURN TOO!!




I will be looking back at your thread during my built as well.

 

^What did ya get Shane, an Explorer rear?

I can't wait till I go get mine.

 

Nice score Shane, glad ya finally got it. I can't wait till I get mine set up.

 

UPDATE:
Picked up my axle housing tonight, looks great. I'll get pix once my camera batts. are charged.

 

Pix:
Housing:

PS brackets:

DS brackets:

Shock Mounts:


New Seals:

4.10 R&P:




And on a side note, I got a new tailgate and speakers.
Tailgate:




Speakers:

 

Jeep emblem on a Ford? lol.


NICE!!!




Quick question...i havn't actually searched hard for this answer yet..

But i noticed you got a new brake line for the axle. How do Spring-Over rangers do their brake lines?? Stock on an expo, it's a junction block on the driverside spring perch, then short hose(rubber) to the driver side caliper, then a long sweet over to the passenger caliper. Stock Ranger is a junction block right on top of the pumpkin, then equal length hoses going to the wheel cylinders.

Can I run the stock ranger junction block, then shorten the ends up with a rubber hose to the calipers for a nice clean look?

How do you plan on doing it??

 

Those welds don't look very good are you sure they're good enough to be safe?

 

After test fitting everything on the axle I noticed that the stock design won't work, so I'll most likely do a hybrid setup. I"ll just need to get new hose. I'll see what will fit an look cleaner than whats on there now, cause I'm not liking the way the right hose fits now.

Yea, they're ugly, but they're real good.

 

How do you know they're good?

 

shoulda went with the axle swap kit from ruff stuff. interesting speaker placement.