^ Which is why I didn't buy the orange can of death lol. Amazingly, the only place that carried mobil1 was a hardware store. No auto parts stores carried it.
I decided to go with another 5 quarts of Pennzoil 5w30 and another bosche filter. Oil was 17 bucks, filter was 5. I thought about a k&n oil filter, but I thought 20 bucks for the filter was a little out there.
Anyway, I have a new mod heading my way. If there's one thing I don't like it's halogen. Inefficient, hot, (which play hand in hand), and dismal light output for 50 bucks a pair.
So, for double the price, I ordered an LED headlight kit from superbrightleds.com I should have that here within a few days. Once I get it, I'll post pics of it out of the box and include a link.
Of course, I'll conduct a test and realign if necessary. I plan to install it around February third.
My father actually found her, by accident. His starter had gone out that day, and he caught a ride home with a coworker. He saw the truck there and the same day we went to see it. I purchased it the next day for $3,400. Very nice woman, too.
The hooks I got in a trade. Thousand-parts needed a better hood that wasn't all scratched up, so I gave him my hood with installation help (delivered) and in exchange got amber corners and the j hooks. A little hot water and simple green later, then there they went.
EDIT: Also, if anyone wants to add me on skype, they're welcome to do so. Nickolas.woods31 (also under my profile).
Just finished watching an episode of Mighty Car Mods (great entertainment, btw), and realized there's something else I want to do. Imagine that!
The video's title was 'how to make your car euro'. I had expected something to do with engine preformance, wheels/brakes, or something along that line. No, actually. Turns out, amongst the jokes, the actual mod was a 'fade delay' for your interior lighting. So, instead of your interior lights just going flat off when you close the door, they fade off in a really classy way.
So here, I found a schematic for something that should work, but I'll keep looking. Automotive Interior Lights Delay Dimmer
If anyone else is interested in the idea, bear in mind what type of lighting it is you're going to be dimming. If it's incandecent, it won't matter if it's voltage or current based dimming, as they really don't care; although do note that they'll have a much higher current draw, so your circuitry should be designed to handle that.
However, if you have LEDs in your interior instead, you'll need to use current based dimming, and here's why. LEDs require a minimum voltage to turn on, and a very specific range of voltage to operate without burning themselves out. With voltage based dimming, you'll be throwing this out of whack and you'll quickly lose the amount of voltage required to turn the LEDs on.
In contrast, with current based dimming, the voltage stays constant (although mild fluctuation may appear), they'll actually dim down to off. Reason being is, the LEDs still have the required voltage to activate, but won't have enough current to fully drive themselves. It's a little more complicated than that, but that's the basic idea.
For this, I don't feel like chopping up my interior wiring, so I plan to remove the relay that controls it and use some spade connectors to extend the connections so I can put the dimming module in line with the outgoing power. This way it's 100% reversible and you're not chopping your wiring. Hopefully I can find something premade (or at least a kit) because tracking down parts is a PITA.
After a ton of searching, I managed to find a premade solution that fades them on when you open the door, delays, then fades off. However, it's 57 dollars, which, I would be open to paying for. Here's a link.
If you search for this, but for a ford mustang specifically, they'll show you the exact same thing. So, GM or Ford, same thing different market.
The circuitry for that is rather complicated it appears so I decided to leave that for now and bite off something similar in nature but a tad less demanding.
Right now, if you turn your headlight switch on, your dash lights will all come on instantly glaring in your face. Nobody likes being blinded at night. A much more subtle, fade on would be nice, and fade off, don't you think?
Well I'm working on something to do just that.
The goal for the project is to be able to use it whether you have incandecent bulbs or LED bulbs. LED bulbs, as I mentioned before, are much better dimmed using PWM. Incandescent bulbs can be dimmed either voltage-wise or PWM.
Something I have to bear in mind though is the dimmer switch. For my truck I'll be phasing the switch out entirely in favor for a cooler way of lighting up the gauge cluster and HVAC so my circuitry will be a one-off compared to everyone else who will likely use PNP leds and not an RGB controller.
In my case, I'll be doing this with an n channel mosphet or similar. Think of it like a relay but smaller and better. the mosphet will control the output of my RGB controller, so the controller itself won't be affected by the PWM signal. To generate the signal in the first place, I plan to use an NE555 timer which can quickly and easily create a PWM signal.
I'll also be using a capacitor and potentiometer. Capacitors, electrolidic specifically, can be charged at a specific rate and discharged at a specific rate with a resistance value. Normally a single resistor would be used for this, but I want the option to be able to adjust the current to my desired speed for fading on and off. the NE555's PWM signal will be controlled by exploiting this effect. When the headlight switch is turned on, voltage begins to increase in the capacitor at a given rate. As the voltage increases, the PWM's duty cycle also increases and with it so does the brightness of the LEDs until full intensity is achieved.
While I'll be wiring mine up differently because of the controller and the complications that come with that, I'll show you how to do it yourself if you plan on using standard PNP leds or just keeping incandecent bulbs if you're old-school that way. Although do bear in mind that the transistor or mosphet used in the end may need to be beefed up to accommodate the current being pulled by the incandescent bulbs.
Now you may be wondering 'what about the dimmer switch'? Well that's not a problem actually. The way this works is the mosphet is going to be switching the power wire to the gauge cluster on and off at a rapid rate. It can only brighten the lights inside it by how much power they're given in the first place.
As I develop this idea and install it in two different trucks with two different setups, I'll post about it here. When it's all done and working nicely I'll of course post a how to for this in as much detail as possible with schematics, part numbers, and so on and so forth.
If this all sounds too techy for you, I'd advise you to check out two channels on YouTube. Afrotechmods and GreatScott! both have channels that are dedicated to this exact type of thing.
My LED headlight kit came in today. Very excited about that. I think I'll be installing that tomorrow. Of course I'll take my little camera or cellphone and hopefully one of them will let me show you guys how it works at night.
The grey boxes are the ballasts which connect to the existing harness via plug (no soldering or cutting required), the grey circular pieces are the LED's fans which screw onto the base by hand and of course you have the LED itself. Not much to be said here. The ballasts do, of course, have to be mounted by a screw which don't appear to be included. Apart from that, this kit is entirely plug and play which I very much like.
During the install, there really wasn't anything noteworthy. Bulb is inserted, the housing's retainer ring is locked on, fan screwed into place hand tight. The bulb and fan are both plugged in to the ballast, ballast plugged into the original harness.
Also, I have a new cosmetic issue, aside from my truck being divebombed by birds lately. My passenger side turn signal has moisture inside it for an unknown reason. Since this is the only lens of the ones I ordered (came in kit/pack) I suspect the lens itself is fine, rather it's the gasket for the socket that isn't up to par. So I'll need to find a place to buy some new ones.
That's a thought. Perhaps glue a gasket onto each socket. I can't really glue the socket to the housing, unfortunately. Granted they're LEDs and will last a long long time, but eventually I will need to change them.
Decided to take a look on rock auto. I can get two all new sockets with the gasket for 14 bucks shipped. Or, I can run over to Menards and get some high temp silicone for 8 bucks and some change after tax.
Weighing the pros and cons here:
If I buy the sockets, it'll be a guaranteed seal as far as the socket goes and it's new too; they are 16 years old after all.
If I buy the silicone, I can use that later down the line for other projects where something needs to be sealed.
Since I have another project coming up with my dash lighting, I want to spend the least amount of cash as I can. I'm-a sleep on it.
An update for my dash light project, the fading on and off. As I churn the idea around for someone who won't be going the same direction I am, I realize it will involve chopping up your dash's wiring harness, as the back lighting comes in at two different spots. Now, I don't know about you guys, but I really do not like chopping my harnesses.
So, I'm going to figure out a somewhat simple solution to this. I think the best bet would be to forgo PNP LEDs for this, and simply use an LED strip activated by the rest of the dash lighting. However, that subs out the dimmer switch.
There's a problem with the dimmer switch, though. It's voltage based dimming, not PWM. At least in my case, the dimmer does still 'work' but it dims it so barely it's not even worth doing.
So that leaves me with two options. One, tie into the dimmer switch and create a second PWM circuit for dimming the LEDs full time when in use along side the fade circuit, or, go redundant and use a second potentiometer in line with the LED strip.
So, with that in mind, what do you guys think so far? Would you rather slice into your dash harness and make it fade that way, or would you rather leave that in tact and add something a bit more complicated?
Small update. Ran to my local Menards and picked up a tube of clear RTV silicone sealant for less than five dollars. Applied a liberal amount to the socket itself, applied the original gasket then added some more underneath where it had gotten squashed. After six hours of setting, allowing the RTV to become not sticky I reinstalled both sockets, pleasantly greeted by a nice tight twist lock fit. So we'll see how this works out.
The housing itself is currently free of moisture, as I let it sit in open air for that time period, and also pulled air in through that little hose via inhaling to hopefully pull dry air inside. If this doesn't work, rockauto will be getting more of my money. Oh well.
On an awesome note, I'm very pleased to have won the January photo contest! I never win anything so, I'm very very happy about that. A big thank you to anyone who voted for me. No idea who did so, thank you three, whoever you are.
Something that's been floating around my mind is upgrading my alternator. Currently I have the smaller version, 95 amp I think? I'd like to upgrade to the beefier 180 amp alternator. I'm going to check around prices.
Good to know. Was wondering if it would even bolt on. Would an explorer's alternator fit, as well? I'm considering a junkyard alternator to save some greenbacks. Local junkyard of mine has tons and tons of explorers to pick off of.
Thanks! I'm thinking of other things to do as we speak, lol.
I actually thought about buying a K&N filter last time, but 20 dollars for a filter I'm going to throw away in six months? I dunno, that just doesn't seem quite right when I can buy four bosche filters for that price.
Little fun fact: Gold Dust had Bosche plugs when I first got her. With her first oil change I swapped to motorcraft platinum plugs. They were good plugs, I'm sure, but she seems to really like these plugs.
I took one out after my last oil change to take a look and that plug was clean. Some heatoxide but no carbon or any oil, dry as a bone.
Also, it's febuary third, so I suppose I should reveal the secret I've been keeping. However, before I do that, does anyone have any guesses as to what it is I'm getting my hands on?