Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....
#226
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#228
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#230
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#233
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#235
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#239
What shock and coil combo are you running. It might just be the picture, but here are a couple of concerns that I see:
1) Coil looks to be really short and compressed. Do you get coil bind before the truck reaches full bump?
2) Limit strap looks close to maxed out at ride height. Do you have any droop travel?
3) I would recommend finding a better way to route your brake lines, they look like they are just waiting for a branch or some road debris to reach up an yank them out.
Otherwise, congratulations on the kit. LT is expensive but fun.
1) Coil looks to be really short and compressed. Do you get coil bind before the truck reaches full bump?
2) Limit strap looks close to maxed out at ride height. Do you have any droop travel?
3) I would recommend finding a better way to route your brake lines, they look like they are just waiting for a branch or some road debris to reach up an yank them out.
Otherwise, congratulations on the kit. LT is expensive but fun.
#240
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For now IM running the coilover conversion upper bracket and 5" 2.0 fox emulsion coilovers. More of midtravel for now, someday full long travel. It's a 10" 700 lb spring and it binds way before full bump, not sure which way to go on this. I want a softer cool cause it's stiff in some places but not sure it'll help much. As for down travel I have a couple inches, not sure if factory extended CVs will pull the numbers they are supposed to cause the bind up with out much more than 4" of droop travel, and I need to find a way to route my brakelines up higher. IM hoping someone can help me out with what I need to know. Thanks for the props, love the kit, just needs some work to get it right, makes it hard being so far away from where people build these trucks
#241
For now IM running the coilover conversion upper bracket and 5" 2.0 fox emulsion coilovers. More of midtravel for now, someday full long travel. It's a 10" 700 lb spring and it binds way before full bump, not sure which way to go on this. I want a softer cool cause it's stiff in some places but not sure it'll help much. As for down travel I have a couple inches, not sure if factory extended CVs will pull the numbers they are supposed to cause the bind up with out much more than 4" of droop travel, and I need to find a way to route my brakelines up higher. IM hoping someone can help me out with what I need to know. Thanks for the props, love the kit, just needs some work to get it right, makes it hard being so far away from where people build these trucks
Remember the purpose of the coil is to hold the truck at ride height. Ideally your coil should hold the truck at ride height with and 1" or less of preload (the less the better). If you are putting more preload than that into your coil, you need a heavier rated coil.
Also, a general rule of thumb is that your coil length should be the shock travel x 2 plus 2". This will generally require that you use a coil compressor to seat the coil hat. Your shock may or may not allow for this since it is a conversion shock.
To improve the ride quality, you should look into your valving. Adding a flutter stack or removing the free bleed screws will help to soften the ride on the street, but will also increase body roll. Honestly, at this point I would recommend that you deal with the ride quality and save your money for a set of 2.5" 8" stroke coil overs. No sense spending money on valving and new coils when that money could go towards the new shocks that will better serve your setup. I am sure that Brandon at BTF could make some valving recommendations once you are ready to purchase new shocks.
As for the brake line, try mount the line so that it points upwards at the knuckle. As I recall we also put a twist in the line to help space the line away from the upper arm. Here is a picture.
Hope this helps.
#243
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#244
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#245
I am not sure how the 2.5" (2.0" shock) coil compares to the 3.0" (2.5" shock) coil. I had to run a much heavier coil on my RCD lift which ran a 2.5" coil. On my Ranger with the DBR kit I ran a 700# coil and it was fine.
Remember the purpose of the coil is to hold the truck at ride height. Ideally your coil should hold the truck at ride height with and 1" or less of preload (the less the better). If you are putting more preload than that into your coil, you need a heavier rated coil.
Also, a general rule of thumb is that your coil length should be the shock travel x 2 plus 2". This will generally require that you use a coil compressor to seat the coil hat. Your shock may or may not allow for this since it is a conversion shock.
To improve the ride quality, you should look into your valving. Adding a flutter stack or removing the free bleed screws will help to soften the ride on the street, but will also increase body roll. Honestly, at this point I would recommend that you deal with the ride quality and save your money for a set of 2.5" 8" stroke coil overs. No sense spending money on valving and new coils when that money could go towards the new shocks that will better serve your setup. I am sure that Brandon at BTF could make some valving recommendations once you are ready to purchase new shocks.
As for the brake line, try mount the line so that it points upwards at the knuckle. As I recall we also put a twist in the line to help space the line away from the upper arm. Here is a picture.
Hope this helps.
Remember the purpose of the coil is to hold the truck at ride height. Ideally your coil should hold the truck at ride height with and 1" or less of preload (the less the better). If you are putting more preload than that into your coil, you need a heavier rated coil.
Also, a general rule of thumb is that your coil length should be the shock travel x 2 plus 2". This will generally require that you use a coil compressor to seat the coil hat. Your shock may or may not allow for this since it is a conversion shock.
To improve the ride quality, you should look into your valving. Adding a flutter stack or removing the free bleed screws will help to soften the ride on the street, but will also increase body roll. Honestly, at this point I would recommend that you deal with the ride quality and save your money for a set of 2.5" 8" stroke coil overs. No sense spending money on valving and new coils when that money could go towards the new shocks that will better serve your setup. I am sure that Brandon at BTF could make some valving recommendations once you are ready to purchase new shocks.
As for the brake line, try mount the line so that it points upwards at the knuckle. As I recall we also put a twist in the line to help space the line away from the upper arm. Here is a picture.
Hope this helps.
sorry to get nosey in your thread just getting in to the conversation
And Andrew I don't think you'll gain much droop unless you go to a larger coilover like Matt was saying. You need to be able to sit at ride height a little more in the middle of your travel. how cranked are your coils? maybe you can crank them back some to lower the ride height and gain some droop for now. Otherwise you'll be banging off those straps quite a bit and it will feel kinda harsh.
#250