You might want to triangulate the lowers more since you will be running a y-link for the uppers. The less angle in the lowers there are, the more "flex steer" you will have.

*pass side stuffed and drivers at droop the rear axle will be "steering" to the left, the drivers wheelbase will have been shortened in relation to the pass*

EDIT: Also I can't tell in the picture, but are the joints at the axle below the centerline of the tube any? If not i would put them at least an inch below the CL of the tube, so the axle is less likely to "pivot" on the joints.

 

You dont think 10* per side will be enough? IF i remember right 22.5 would be the optimum but I didnt want to build another cross member on the frame for the lowers to mount to.

 

Since the y-link will have a single point it connects with the axle, i would put the lowers as close as they can be on the frame side while still being able to get a bolt/nut in and out ok.

I try to get the uppers and lowers as close of an angle as possible to prevent the axle from steering during articulation.

But if you just want to go fast in the dunes and jump etc and are not worried about articulation disregard my posts.

 

thats just an avatar, i want it to work well in as many situations as possible. I will look at changing it. id like to cycle the suspension first but I may change to a 4 link and just order the extra joints needed.

I am not questioning your opinion/knowledge at all. I understand what you mean I just dont know if I want to go to all the trouble to change it.

Have you messed with that 4 link calc much? What should your roll steer be # wise?

 

I don't use the calculator really. It's only as accurate as the numbers you are entering and no one really knows their center of gravity and most don't know their weight/distribution etc either so its not that accurate.

Just make sure you don't have a high instant center thats in the middle of the truck and go from there.

 

Alright thanks. Hopefully I can get it all squared away tonight and test the suspension travel out.

 

So how do you go about designing your suspension to make sure you don't have undesirable characteristics to it?

 

There are general rules to go by to make your suspension do what you want it to. You won't have exact numbers to shoot for, but it will give you a good idea.

 

he's that good

 

Learn from the experienced/experts. Research. It's not rocket science. A little common sense goes a long way.

Most of the time you have x and y that you want to achieve but can't due to packaging.

Unless it's built from the ground up then every thing is taken into consideration.

 

more progress! Everything is just tack welded, hopefully nothing will need to change but who knows.

 

Coming together nicely!!

 

Nice!

 

looks good son

 

is the Y part what makes it a 3 link?
idk jack about suspensions other than my own so dont flame me

 

Zack those 37's look like space saver spares.

 

Zach please tell me you're putting that y-link into double shear! And that upper link looks less than 45*, not more. Did you change your mind?

Smakes, it's called a 3 link because there are 3 different links that locate the axle. There are lots of ways that a 3-link can be configured!

 

3 mounts on the axle, so yes


lol, i know, time for 42s

LOL! duh. I plan on it just have not got there yet. btw that is actually wider than 45, but not by much. I have not physically measured it but it should be more than 45.

 

I knew you wouldn't let me down.

That cover/truss really brings the beef! Oh and good job pointing that center rod end upwards. It's much stronger that way!

Now stop web-wheeling and get back in the garage! lol

 

lol i figured i wouldnt need to post it because everyone knew it wasnt done and that i would do it.

all well time for bed! work in the am, gotta make the $$ to finish the truck.

 

Zach you are my idol.

**** looks so damn badass... Great work man!

 

Man that thing is sick! Great job so far!

 

thanks guys. i feel a bit more refreshed on it now. Hopefully I can get another good night of work on it tonight.

Gotta Roof the house Friday/Saturday though.

 

where it mounts to the axle... you just have a bolt ran through it? also, how do you plan to double sheer it, i always forget what that is.......

 

plate on both sides? i am just going to make a piece of 1/4" go up and over it then back down. double sheer is a tab or mount on both sides of the joint.

I took and drilled a hole through the truss, then i took the torch, cut two slots in it by the hole and welded in 2 pieces of strap to keep the truss some collapsing.