Project Budget Buster
#176
#177
Shouldn't be a problem - but I won't have any 'before' numbers.
Also, my tuner is anticipating a drivetrain loss as high as 33%-44% due to my tires. But no matter what - it will be a healthy increase over what it's got now!
Most people with a supercharger state they fall right about 210-225hp to the wheels for people with a 'normal' tire setup - meaing approximately 260-270ish @ the crank (assuming a 20% drivetrain loss).
After a quick evaluation of my setup, my tuner is thinking I will land right about 300-320hp at the crank (depending on final boost levels since I'm at 5,000' above sea level). Then I'll take an ***-whooping due to my tires when it comes to the wheel horsepower number. LOL
Also, my tuner is anticipating a drivetrain loss as high as 33%-44% due to my tires. But no matter what - it will be a healthy increase over what it's got now!
Most people with a supercharger state they fall right about 210-225hp to the wheels for people with a 'normal' tire setup - meaing approximately 260-270ish @ the crank (assuming a 20% drivetrain loss).
After a quick evaluation of my setup, my tuner is thinking I will land right about 300-320hp at the crank (depending on final boost levels since I'm at 5,000' above sea level). Then I'll take an ***-whooping due to my tires when it comes to the wheel horsepower number. LOL
Last edited by logan03CO; 04-24-2013 at 08:01 PM.
#179
#180
#182
#184
Here is some information I 'borrowed' from the internet that explains it better than I could:
How it Works
:
The secret to water/methanol injection lies in its key ingredients. Methanol is a high octane fuel that is also extremely resistant to detonation. It has a tendency to absorb heat out of the air – something known as “latent heat of vaporization.” The water also absorbs heat and provides a further cooling effect as the finely atomized water/methanol mix is pumped into the engine. The cooler, denser intake charge reduces the chances of detonation even as the high-octane methanol boosts power.
What are the benefits of water/methanol injection?
1) More power: the high-octane properties of methanol, along with air cooling properties of the methanol and water, help water/methanol systems produce more power. In addition, the cooler intake temperatures allow you to run more aggressive timing and/or boost (forced induction applications) without increasing the chance of detonation.
2) Reduced chance of detonation: the lower intake charge temperatures created by the methanol and water mean less chance for engine-damaging detonation.
3) Low cost: water/methanol systems start around $300.
4) More economical for the street: water/methanol is a less expensive high-octane alternative to pure race gas for guys running high compression engines on the street.
5) Built-in engine maintenance: in some cases, the atomized water effectively steam cleans the valves, valve seats, and even the piston tops and intake, reducing carbon buildup.
The secret to water/methanol injection lies in its key ingredients. Methanol is a high octane fuel that is also extremely resistant to detonation. It has a tendency to absorb heat out of the air – something known as “latent heat of vaporization.” The water also absorbs heat and provides a further cooling effect as the finely atomized water/methanol mix is pumped into the engine. The cooler, denser intake charge reduces the chances of detonation even as the high-octane methanol boosts power.
What are the benefits of water/methanol injection?
1) More power: the high-octane properties of methanol, along with air cooling properties of the methanol and water, help water/methanol systems produce more power. In addition, the cooler intake temperatures allow you to run more aggressive timing and/or boost (forced induction applications) without increasing the chance of detonation.
2) Reduced chance of detonation: the lower intake charge temperatures created by the methanol and water mean less chance for engine-damaging detonation.
3) Low cost: water/methanol systems start around $300.
4) More economical for the street: water/methanol is a less expensive high-octane alternative to pure race gas for guys running high compression engines on the street.
5) Built-in engine maintenance: in some cases, the atomized water effectively steam cleans the valves, valve seats, and even the piston tops and intake, reducing carbon buildup.
#185
#187
Yes Sir - Right before the throttle body is the usual & desired location.
If you have to install it after the throttle body, you need a check valve installed to prevent siphoning during times when the engine is not in boost and under a vacuum.
Water/Methanol kits are injected at high pressures (above 50psig). This allows the mixture to properly atomize (aka –creates a super fine 'mist'). Lower pressures would produce larger droplets - which would cause issues with your motor.
This fine water mist is simply converted from a vapor to a gaseous state very quickly which absorbs huge amounts of heat (aka - lowering the air intake temperatures substantially). The methanol portion of the mixture provides some chemical intercooling, and provides the fuel octane increase. You have a selection of different nozzles that will vary the actual amount of injection that happens during a given time period.
As far as the actual refilling requirement goes – yes, they are similar. You can either use a separate tank for the mixture, or 'tap' your existing windshield reservoir tank to also provide the water/meth mixture to your injection system pump.
The overall system is triggered by either a boost switch (aka - comes on at 'x' psi of boost) - or can be triggered by the MAF sensor voltage (aka - comes on at 'x' CFM of airflow).
My system takes it a bit further and is a progressive injection system. Instead of it being an 'all or nothing' type of system - mine will actually ramp-up the injection as needed. It reads the Mass Air voltage and adjusts water/methanol output accordingly. So basically, at a certain airflow I will have the pump running @ 10% capacity, but when the demand is higher it will increase to the full 100% capacity.
If you have to install it after the throttle body, you need a check valve installed to prevent siphoning during times when the engine is not in boost and under a vacuum.
Water/Methanol kits are injected at high pressures (above 50psig). This allows the mixture to properly atomize (aka –creates a super fine 'mist'). Lower pressures would produce larger droplets - which would cause issues with your motor.
This fine water mist is simply converted from a vapor to a gaseous state very quickly which absorbs huge amounts of heat (aka - lowering the air intake temperatures substantially). The methanol portion of the mixture provides some chemical intercooling, and provides the fuel octane increase. You have a selection of different nozzles that will vary the actual amount of injection that happens during a given time period.
The overall system is triggered by either a boost switch (aka - comes on at 'x' psi of boost) - or can be triggered by the MAF sensor voltage (aka - comes on at 'x' CFM of airflow).
My system takes it a bit further and is a progressive injection system. Instead of it being an 'all or nothing' type of system - mine will actually ramp-up the injection as needed. It reads the Mass Air voltage and adjusts water/methanol output accordingly. So basically, at a certain airflow I will have the pump running @ 10% capacity, but when the demand is higher it will increase to the full 100% capacity.
Last edited by logan03CO; 04-26-2013 at 10:41 AM.
#189
It really depends on all sorts of things (pump pressure, nozzle size, when you have it set to inject). On 'average', people have said the standard 3-quart tank will last around a tank of gasoline. So about three-quarters of a gallon of 'Boost Juice' per tank of gas - but it really depends, and can vary dramatically.
Originally Posted by Snow Performance
Q: How much range will a tank of Water/Methanol provide?
A: This depends on a number of variables. HP, injection system, settings, driving style, etc.
A: This depends on a number of variables. HP, injection system, settings, driving style, etc.
#191
#193
#197
My setup was pretty pricey & probably not for everyone - but he listed some of the basic prices on his website: Fearce Offroad
While not as 'cheap' as some other companies, but I believe in the saying - 'You get what you pay for'. Every bumper is hand built and his attention to detail is top notch.
Jon has great customer service & just as great quality & craftsmanship.
He custom makes every bumper. Quality laser cut steel parts of his own design.
I 'tweaked' a few things to suit what I was after. I went with an upgraded 1/4" thick center section with the 3/16" side 'wings'. I was also looking for the receiver hitch to be located behind the license plate so it could be 'hidden' when not in use & slightly thicker shackle mounts.
Thanks!
Can't wait to test fit everything once it gets here.
Then, once I reinforce the mounting on my N-Fab side steps (also not yet installed) - I'll have the bumper & side steps professional sprayed with a bed liner before the final assembly.
While not as 'cheap' as some other companies, but I believe in the saying - 'You get what you pay for'. Every bumper is hand built and his attention to detail is top notch.
Jon has great customer service & just as great quality & craftsmanship.
I 'tweaked' a few things to suit what I was after. I went with an upgraded 1/4" thick center section with the 3/16" side 'wings'. I was also looking for the receiver hitch to be located behind the license plate so it could be 'hidden' when not in use & slightly thicker shackle mounts.
Thanks!
Can't wait to test fit everything once it gets here.
Then, once I reinforce the mounting on my N-Fab side steps (also not yet installed) - I'll have the bumper & side steps professional sprayed with a bed liner before the final assembly.
Last edited by logan03CO; 05-09-2013 at 12:47 PM.
#200