I have a flat pitman arm from Sky. There will not be a lot of uptravel. I'm not sure on the numbers yet. This truck will not be a rock monster. I wanted as low COG as I could with this swap. It will run mild trails and my goal was a bad *** tough hunting and exploration truck. I do a lot of exploring of old town sites and mines plus a good amount of hunting and a lot of scouting for those hunts. I'm running 35" BFG All Terrains, Locked front and rear with a winch front and rear. A few inches uptravel will be fine with me for now as it is my DD. I'm sure in the futire I will be messing with the suspension. If I want to go higher in the front I could always get 4404 2" lift Waggy springs. Matt ran old worn stock Waggy springs without any problems and had soem decent flex too. He also ran shackle in front just as my build is.
Here is the pitman arm.
Bumper Shots. Not completed, but general idea. I'm going to be running Ridgid Industries Leds. They are on his Sheriff's buggy and ridiculously bright and durable. Winch plates not installed yet, but will be on top in front of the grill.
Hitch will be used in conjunction with a ****** block for a double line pull.
Check out these videos of these lights. My old KC's would be long gone....
that first list is honestly ONE good hard day of work!!! why dont they just get on it and finish it up?? weld on the plates=1hour.. bolt in shackles=30 mins steering will be a little harder. but shocks just throw em in!! your so close mang
well if someone makes the mistake of calling it a Ranger they are ****n dumb. They look nothing alike. But I agree putting it into the bumper lower and closer the frame itself would be much stronger and look better.
The way the crossmember is already built this works out best. I'm not using this winch to hang off of cliffs or waterfalls like buggys and Jeeps do out here. It will be strong enough for what I do. It would look cleaner, but I like function and I don't want the winch hanging down low. I want to keep the hitch too to use it for double line pulls. The tube work is all .120 wall and with those strong welds it shouldn't be a problem. I will post some pictures of where I got my ideas from when I get home.
05' 4x4, Auto, Locked F&R, D44 SFA & 8.8 w/disc & c-clip eliminator , Yukon Chromo's F&R, Custom Skids, Sliders, Bumpers, 35" BFGs, 5.13 gears, Riddler & Solid Diff Covers, Superchips Flashpaq, CB, Optima Red Top, Gibson Exhaust, K&N Air Filter & a lot of other little things.
I was never a fan of the hoops from the bumper extending above the head lights. However after seeing a few nice ones and realizing that it is more practical to mount my LED light bars as high as possible for maximum effectiveness. Here are some of where the ideas came from....
With that here are some more recent bumper pictures. I'm not totally excited about it but I think it will grow on me more. The top hoops are designed for my lights. The center hoop will hold the 6" LED, each side will have a 4" LED. It is kind of an expedition style bumper mixed with a high clearance tube bumper.
I was at the shop deciding on the angle. I choose to have it angling forward kind of like a stinger but not. I would have liked the side bars (ones that go around headlights and attach at center) to be angled down more so they meet the center "stinger bar" more towards the middle or a little above. Problem is that my lights are going to be hanging down right after that little mini bend on each side. This way they are away from the headlights.
Looks good. I did not realize that you had a build thread. I need to spend some time reading it from the beginning when I have a bit more time. Your truck has come a long way in the last year or so. We still need to meet up some time and do a AZ back country exploration trip.