a few pictures, new 35's, the truck, etc..
#30
01-18-2010
Obviously you haven't learned about re-gearing. If you wanted to keep the same gearing as stock (4.10s and 31" tires) with 35" tires, you would use a 4.63 ratio which doesn't exist. So 4.56 is a higher gearing and you would be getting less power to the ground, not even factoring in the extra drag and extra rolling mass of the bigger/heavier tires. On top of that, the difference between 4.56 and 4.88 gears is only a couple hundred RPM at freeway speed.
4.10 gear and 33s will work okay for you though, for what it's worth.
4.10 gear and 33s will work okay for you though, for what it's worth.
#31
01-18-2010
hold up, i have learned about re-gearing, but i do a lot of hiway driving, and i the last thing i would want to do is bump my rpm HIGHER on the hiway... i would rather lose a little low end power but lower my RPM on the hiway, i almost want to take my 4.10's out and put in 3.73's or something like that....
#33
01-18-2010
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Brian, Yes, my pickup is a 4.0L OHV with auto trans.
I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
#34
01-18-2010
hold up, i have learned about re-gearing, but i do a lot of hiway driving, and i the last thing i would want to do is bump my rpm HIGHER on the hiway... i would rather lose a little low end power but lower my RPM on the hiway, i almost want to take my 4.10's out and put in 3.73's or something like that....
you want to work the engine less, aka more RPM. 4.88s for sure!
im running 5.13s and 42s with a 400+ hp v8 in the next few months and i dont think that will be enough! lol
#35
01-18-2010
Brian, Yes, my pickup is a 4.0L OHV with auto trans.
I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
I talked to Randys Ring and Pinion today during my lunch break, the gentleman told me 4.56 would put my truck right at about stock performance with the 35's and that 4.88's would put me just above stock. He recommended 4.88s and said that there is only around 100RPM difference vs. the 4.56. More than likely, 4.88s is where i'll be, especially after hearing what some of you guys had to say. I should be doing business with them here in the next few months, he quoted me around 1600 total front and rear, with the same day turn around.
4.88s will be perfect.
#36
01-18-2010
Join Date: Sep 2009
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#37
01-18-2010
#38
01-19-2010
tom, get a life
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
#39
01-19-2010
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
#40
01-19-2010
tom, get a life
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
maybe so, but i'm mostly looking at it from a street drive-ability aspect, i don't know about the rest of you, but i don't want to be running 3500 rpm for 2 hours a day...
i understand all of your points, but i stand by my decision, that i wouldn't go quite as high as 4.88's, i would go with 4.56's, but that's me...
Nevermind, forget it. I'm wasting my time explaining this to you. lol
Short story, 4.88s and 35s IS VERY STREETABLE.
#41
01-19-2010
I has 1.
What he said.
What he said.
To the OP:
Moar pictures meow!!!!
Higher RPM like Zach said, is less work and load on the motor. This can in time lead to increase in mileage, because the motor works half as much to do the same thing as a motor with tall gearing with your foot in it.
You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
Maybe you didn't read right. The difference between 4.56 gears and 4.88s gears on a ranger is only a little over 200 rpm at 70mph. So again, if you take...
Nevermind, forget it. I'm wasting my time explaining this to you. lol
Short story, 4.88s and 35s IS VERY STREETABLE.
Nevermind, forget it. I'm wasting my time explaining this to you. lol
Short story, 4.88s and 35s IS VERY STREETABLE.
To the OP:
Moar pictures meow!!!!
#42
01-19-2010
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Higher RPM like Zach said, is less work and load on the motor. This can in time lead to increase in mileage, because the motor works half as much to do the same thing as a motor with tall gearing with your foot in it.
You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
You have to understand the OHV produces about 20 less HP than the SOHC does from the factory. It also is a low RPM power motor where as the SOHC gets is power in the higher RPM's. So he's going to need the gears to get that thing going... AKA taking off with 35's... Especially with an auto. Ask my buddy Austin. He ran 35's, 3.73's with open carrier, and his auto trans for about 4-6mo before it literally grenaded on him. Then he swapped to a manual trans right before I did, and then swapped in 4.88's. He'll never look back. I highly recommend with your motor and trans combo you have now and your future in the truck, spend the money on re-gearing. Your truck will definitely thank you later.
#44
01-19-2010
i stand by what I said, i don't think it is worth getting into a heated debate about it, i think we can just agree to disagree?
seldom will i say this, i agree with tom 100% here... lockers for sure, or at the least l/s up front and locker in the rear
seldom will i say this, i agree with tom 100% here... lockers for sure, or at the least l/s up front and locker in the rear
#46
01-19-2010
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#48
01-20-2010
I should point out that some limited slips do not fit with 4.88 gears, it may just be the torsen diff. Lunchbox lockers will require grinding the ring gear down slightly but it is standard procedure for anyone who installs gears.
I ran an aussie locker up front with my sport trac on 33s and I didn't break anything, but I didn't have it in there long before I traded it in. It was AWESOME on the trails (steering was tight though) but a little sketchy in snow. I carried spare CVs and gear oil with me everywhere because I expected something to break.
Locking the rear has a lot more benefit (in my opinion) with less risk and better handling. This would also be a good chance to keep an eye out for an explorer rear axle while you are waiting to gear. Might as well start with a stronger axle!
I ran an aussie locker up front with my sport trac on 33s and I didn't break anything, but I didn't have it in there long before I traded it in. It was AWESOME on the trails (steering was tight though) but a little sketchy in snow. I carried spare CVs and gear oil with me everywhere because I expected something to break.
Locking the rear has a lot more benefit (in my opinion) with less risk and better handling. This would also be a good chance to keep an eye out for an explorer rear axle while you are waiting to gear. Might as well start with a stronger axle!
#49
01-20-2010
