yea i think the rack and pinion is in the way up front there at that crossmember, i was looking at that area while we were there. We tried going from the hitch with no luck, 4x4 was gettin stuck, too slick over there.
lucky? thats almost as bad as a half *** fuel filter job. with no intentions of fixing your screw up?
So uh, how much luck did you have with getting that fuel filter off? At least I got it swapped out and last time I checked it hasn't fallen off. I'd call it a success, nothing half assed about it
Originally Posted by EdGe_wannabe
There are other options I'm sure than yanking the **** out of the x-member like that. Did your truck not come with tow hooks or is it because of the b/l?
*EDIT, re-read the majority of the thread. Why would the sway bar even be a choice?
No there were no tow hooks up front and too much distance of mud out back to pull that way. Believe me we exhausted all other options. I thought about the swaybar cause I used that as a recovery point in my old chevy numerous times and it never got bent. That was big swaybar, one of chevy's brighter engineering moments.
Originally Posted by got-dirty
agreed, some major beginner wheeling going on there.
Far from it. What would you have done? I did what I had to do and that truck is no longer sitting in the muck.
Originally Posted by seed60
Run the strap in the window, through the cab, out the other window, and hold on!!!!!
Oh good, then you can crush the windshield in.
1997 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L. 4" Superlift with Pro Comp shocks, 33" Mud Terrains on 15x10 American Racing Wheels. Iridium plugs, JBA 9MM wires.
Which off the top of my head is bolted to the frame, and has adjusting slots in it..I'd hope the crossmember was bent out taking up the slack in the adjustment slots. If thats the case, a junkyard crossmember would fix that up just fine!
Thats where you'd be wrong, its welded on the frame.
Still no good pull points for the front of her truck from you guys? I thought they would be raining in after what you guys were saying. Rack & Pinion takes out going from the front crossmember, no tow hooks, anyone?
Like I said, there wasn't room for a 4" strap to go below the R&P. Also given it was a 'weak' spot to begin with, it sure doesn't take much of a 'yank' to bend that part. I for one saw not much of a yank. You'd have to admit it'd be a hell of a lot harder to bend that subframe under the r&p than the crossmember hooked to, right? So there is no need for the 'smarter friends' comment, sounds to me you'd be in the same situation since your one and only hookup recommendation (below r&p) wouldn't work with the given 4" strap. I'm not trying to stir anything up, but you're giving Kelly and I a hard time for that hookup point, when really you have nothing better to suggest and cure the problem for the next time....
Can't get mad at the guys trying to help out, not our decision to pull the front tow hooks for the body lift. Thats one of the con's of the body lift. This really isn't a pissing contest of who would pull what, how, or when. Every situation is going to be different, with a strap that wouldn't wrap around the front k-member...where would YOU hook it to? So far I've heard no other suggestions, therefore making that "the best we could do". Tried pulling from the back, however the recovery vehicle was getting itself stuck in the muck, going from the front offered more stable ground for the truck to pull from.
If anyone has any other suggestions than the k-member below the R&P with a 4"...let us know for next time, sure as hell isn't going to be her last time getting stuck!! I went out and bought a 2" 20,000lb strap that would slip through that k-member just fine since last Sunday. For my own personal use when I go out, we had to work with what we had at the time just like anyone else, and I won't necessarily be there everytime with "the only strap that'll fit through the k-member/only pull point from the front". Sounds to me it'd be in her best interest to pickup a thinner strap like that herself as well ($35).
Also, these pics are about 5 mins apart. At first she was hardly stuck, would have easily pulled out from the rear, she kept trying to get out and buried the rear a lot further. We can't control everything! That front end would have been untouched...
^^Those pics are why when you are starting to get stuck, you make that split second decision: "try to get out, or risk getting even more burried". ESPICIALLY in a 2wd.
I've had some MAJOR stuckage before.......involving a hill, ice on top of asphalt, thick *** snow on top of the ice, and a layer of ice on top of that. 6hrs later with a shovel and a buddy with a winch and chainsaw, i was out.
I much rather get pulled from the back....nice hitch.
I've gotten yanked out via front crossmember as well.
Katie, take your valence off and put towhooks on so you can have towhooks. OR cut your valence so you can use the towhooks. Still not a good location anyway. I plan on cutting mine up(even though it's barely tweaked), welding in a piece of channel and gusset it to the frame. SHOULDn't move. On that piece of channel, will be chunks of 1" thick plate sticking out of the hole in the bumper, with 3/4" holes for the 3/4" shackle. SHOULD be plenty strong, but we'll see.