Normal cold start routine for fuel injected engine, not just Ford, is:
Turn on key, crank engine
Fuel pump comes on for a few seconds to prime system pressure
If engine starts idle should go up to 1,500+ RPMs, that's the computer opening up the IAC Valve all the way for starting.
Idle should then drop to about 1,100 RPMs, this is based on temperature of engine, colder temp higher idle.
The temperature of the engine comes from the ECT sensor, this is a two wire sensor only connected to the computer.
The dash board temp gauge uses a one wire Sender, not a sensor.
As ECT sensor warms up with the engine coolant the computer lowers the idle until target warm engine idle is set, 700-750 RPM for manual trans, 800-850 for automatic.
If you are not getting the high idle on cold start then either the IAC valve or ECT sensor is not working.
Does the CEL come on when key is turned on?
It should and then go off.
The O2 sensors can't work below 650degF so are not used during warm up, computer runs rich fuel mix based on MAF, RPM and throttle position until O2 sensors can be used.
Warm up stage is called Open Loop since computer isn't getting any feedback from O2 sensors.
Most systems do not used the EGR system in Open Loop, since the warm up time is only 5 to 8 minutes and the system is running rich, high NOx levels and pinging are not an issue during warm up, so EGR is not needed.
Once O2 sensors are working the system switches to Closed Loop, computer bases fuel mix on feedback from O2 sensors, and uses EGR system to prevent cylinder overheating from lean fuel mix.
EGR valve not stalling idling engine when opened is a problem, when you removed the EGR valve did you inspect the tube to exhaust manifold?
Manually opening EGR valve should cause engine to stumble and die if opened far enough and long enough.
'94 2.3l uses Dual spark plugs and Dual coils, and an external ICM(ignition control module)
In '95/'96 the ICM was built into the computer, EEC-V
The standard tune up should probably be done since this is a new truck for you, it isn't cheap because of the "dual" spark plugs and wires.
Coils and ICM can be tested with volt ohm meters, some auto parts stores have ICM testers
I would at least pull out 1 spark plug from each cylinder and inspect it, google: spark plug condition