Hello! I really need some help. This only happens when it is cold out, I mean 35 and Below. When I start the mighty 2500, it clicks right when the motor takes off, then it quits. To me it sounds like a lifter, but I am not sure. It drives me nuts. There are times when it is cold, I can run it for 5 to 6 minuets and shut it off, start it again and boom clicks again? Any ideas why this would be, anybody else have the same problem? Thanks!

 

I have the same problem!!!

I've attributed it to a slightly bent valve knocking before the lubrication makes it up to the valves because of our mechanical oil pumps.

I recently replaced all my gaskets, from the head up. While doing so I got to pressure test my head, check all the valves, replace all the valve seals, and check basically everything else. All came out okay, so I went about replacing every gasket and seal, replacing the thermostat, PCV valve, spark plugs, wires...and cleaning EVERY surface to a carbon-free finish. I still have the Cold-Start-Knock on initial start-up, and it will return on cold days even after a brief cooling.

After doing all this work, I was really hoping to get rid of the brief knocking sound, but it's still there, and the only conclusion I can come to is to lower the viscosity of your oil so it doesn't clump up so much and can be pumped up more quickly on initial cold starts.
I flushed mine with 10 quarts of Pennzoil 5-w30 (3 cycles), then finished off with a nice dose of synthetic 5-w30 and a new Wix filter.

Good luck! If this doesn't help hopefully someone else will chime in and give us both good news!

 

I also use SAE 5-W30 Full Synthetic Penzoil Oil! It is very weird. Other people tell me not to worry about it unless it gets to the point where it contiunes to do it, or get louder. All we can do is tery different things. Has your Ranger always do it or how many mileas did it start doing it? ranger1998xlt

 

It has not always done it.

It didn't start until 110,000 miles or so.

It started when I lost oil pressure going down the highway. I shut the truck down immediately after the oil pressure dropped so no damage was done. However, the reason the pressure dropped is because I had a blown head gasket and burnt up 2-1/2 quarts of oil and didn't know it. The oil pressure drop was because of the low oil amount.

Either way, I've been told also not to worry about it unless it gets much worse. It's remained steady at the point it is, and doesn't seem to vary in intensity when it gets extremely cold (below freezing).

One thing I will try next time I start it is this:
Cold engine: before starting: pop hood and add 1/2 quart of oil.
This should allow the oil to flow down the valve train some before draining to the pan and lubricate everything for the "cold start".

I'll keep doing my research and let you know on this post what I find!

 

ya, mine just started at 66,000 miles, I have 71,000 now. So, I don't know!

 

Ya, it is very weird. I can't figure it out. Hugh????

 

What I would do is try some seafoam in your engine oil. It will help lube and remove crap from anything your oil touches. Just add it to your normal oil and see if it helps. You can get it almost anywhere I believe.

 

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm

Is what it looks like....

 

If you do this, ingest the substance through your brake-booster vacuum supply line.

Here's my methodology:
I had a pinging problem with my 2.5, and after a Seafoam treatment it became like a new engine! I've got a How-To posted over on RPS, if anyone wants to go "Quote" it and copy it here for me.

Anyway, here's a basic run-down of what I did.

• Buy a can of SeaFoam at AutoZone or a similar auto parts store. It's usually mixed in with the carbeurator cleaners and other aerosol products, but look for an "old style" white can with red lettering.
  
• When you get home (with the motor still warm), open the hood and grab a helper. My wife was a big help in being my 3rd hand with this one.
• Find the brake booster. This should be self explanatory, right under the brake fluid cap.
• Ensure everything and everyone is away from the fan blades, then start the engine.
• Now, Un-plug the large (1/2" diameter) black rubber vacuum hose from the brake booster by squeezing the clip with a pair of pliars and pulling, then immediately cover the end of the vacuum hose with your thumb to prevent from stalling the engine.
  
• Have your helper hold the can for you with the lid off while you dip the end of the vacuum hose in the can briefly, then covering it with your thumb once the engine's RPM's drop.
• Give it as many "sips" this way as you can, and make the "sips" as large as possible, until 1/2 to 3/4's of the can is empty.
• When finished, remove your finger from the vacuum hose and let the engine stall, or plug it back into the brake booster and turn the key off.
• Let it sit for 10-15 minutes (recommended time), then prepare for a very smokey, putrid smelling ride. (I'd recommend doing this at night, or away from neighbor's at least, because of the amount of smoke initially)
  Once all of the white billowing smoke is gone, you should start to notice the effects of the LACK of carbon on the valves and cylinders!

 

well, now i am thinking that it is not a lifter, because after school today I started it up and let it warmup for about 5 minutes. I then realized that I forgot my books, so I shut it off for 2 minutes can then came back out and boom... it did it again when the motor already had some oil up in the top of the engine. My next idea is that it might be something with the starter? I have heard people have that problem with the 3.0L engine too. Well, I guess we will jsut have to see! ranger1998xlt

 

I had the same problem with my 2.5L. It started as a ticking just during start-up, so i changed to a different weight oil. Then it progressivly got worse. Soon i was loosing oil pressure like crazy. I too, thought it was a lifter or a valve. but it turned out that the rod bearing on my #4 wiped out!. i pulled the pan to find an oil pickup full of shavings.

The bearings were overlapped like this when i pulled the rod cap off.

And here's the damage to the crankshaft.

 

Now what do you think caused that problem with the rod bearing?

 

not sure, my guess is that it got starved and started to spin. this all happened at around 170K miles. i rebuilt it and it ran wonderfully.

 

Wow...crazy stuff. I just threw a rod bearing, although I am unsure of the damage and which cylinder number because it's sitting on my garage floor. However, it gives me the opportunity to replace my 4-cylinder 2.5 with a 302 V8, so I'm not too disappointed. It's just a big financial commitment to me....

 

I just had to get my crank welded up and ground back to spec and bought a new connecting rod from ford. and of course new bearings and piston rings all around.

I wanted to swap a 302 in too, but this was in my daily driver and i needed if back running quick. Doing the swap would take longer than i could stand.