ac not working
#1
ac not working
Recently the ac stopped working. It was preloud to ac blowing less cold at a red light to not working at all. I had no power to ac compressor but clutch and compressor engauges when called upon but it does not blow cold air and theres no water leaking from ac system. The funny part is I used to build rangers and did both the inside and outside heater jobs while I worked there.... im wondering if its the dryer or the compressor have plenty of refrigerant
#2
Recently the ac stopped working. It was preloud to ac blowing less cold at a red light to not working at all. I had no power to ac compressor but clutch and compressor engauges when called upon but it does not blow cold air and theres no water leaking from ac system. The funny part is I used to build rangers and did both the inside and outside heater jobs while I worked there.... im wondering if its the dryer or the compressor have plenty of refrigerant
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I think you are "over analyzing" the problem.
If AC is on then you should have 12volts on one of the compressors wires(other is a Ground)
If not then one of the pressure switches has opened so 12volts can't pass.
Power to compressor flows like this:
Climate control fuse(#18)----climate control switch, AC ON(in cab)----AC Cycling pressure switch----AC pressure switch----WOT Relay------AC compressor(clutch)----Ground
WOT(wide open throttle) relay, this cuts power to compressor when driver needs extra power, i.e. gas pedal to the floor, lol, these rarely fail.
If AC temp was warming up at idle then I would suspect low refrigerant level.
You could simply need a recharge.
AC cycling switch opens when pressure in system is too high, compressor pumps up pressure, but it needs to stay below a set level or lines will break, if system gets to hot pressure goes up.
AC pressure switch opens when pressure is too low, not enough refrigerant to compress
Also check the electric fan on the condenser in front of the radiator, it should usually come on when idling, if it isn't working the pressure in AC system gets too high and cycling switch will cut off power to compressor.
While Ford does have compressor clutch "air gap" issues it usually causes other symptoms, and you would have 12 volts at compressor when AC was on, but clutch wouldn't engage, since you don't have 12 volts there it is another issue.
If AC is on then you should have 12volts on one of the compressors wires(other is a Ground)
If not then one of the pressure switches has opened so 12volts can't pass.
Power to compressor flows like this:
Climate control fuse(#18)----climate control switch, AC ON(in cab)----AC Cycling pressure switch----AC pressure switch----WOT Relay------AC compressor(clutch)----Ground
WOT(wide open throttle) relay, this cuts power to compressor when driver needs extra power, i.e. gas pedal to the floor, lol, these rarely fail.
If AC temp was warming up at idle then I would suspect low refrigerant level.
You could simply need a recharge.
AC cycling switch opens when pressure in system is too high, compressor pumps up pressure, but it needs to stay below a set level or lines will break, if system gets to hot pressure goes up.
AC pressure switch opens when pressure is too low, not enough refrigerant to compress
Also check the electric fan on the condenser in front of the radiator, it should usually come on when idling, if it isn't working the pressure in AC system gets too high and cycling switch will cut off power to compressor.
While Ford does have compressor clutch "air gap" issues it usually causes other symptoms, and you would have 12 volts at compressor when AC was on, but clutch wouldn't engage, since you don't have 12 volts there it is another issue.
Last edited by RonD; 05-31-2015 at 09:48 AM.
#4
The compressor wouldnt engauge didnt have power. I took the spacer out of clutch, then the compressor comes on when called upon but just spins continuously tried adding refridgant wont take it just blows warm air and theres no water dripping from core.
Im going to change the compressor and recharge
Im going to change the compressor and recharge
#5
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
If the compressor didn't have power then how did it "engage" when you removed the spacer, that part doesn't make any sense???
If you by-passed the clutch so it is always engaged then you will blow a high pressure hose...............for sure, compressor has to cycle off or system will get too much pressure.
Word of advice, compressor failure will cause metal fragments to be circulated throughout the system, if you install a new compressor without a complete flush of the system then the new compressor will be dead within a year, or sooner.
If you open the system to replace the compressor, flush it, and you also need to replace the drier.
Water drips from evaporator because it is Cold and gets condensation on it, so if AC is not blowing cold air then evaporator isn't cold, evaporator is where the cold air comes from.
If you by-passed the clutch so it is always engaged then you will blow a high pressure hose...............for sure, compressor has to cycle off or system will get too much pressure.
Word of advice, compressor failure will cause metal fragments to be circulated throughout the system, if you install a new compressor without a complete flush of the system then the new compressor will be dead within a year, or sooner.
If you open the system to replace the compressor, flush it, and you also need to replace the drier.
Water drips from evaporator because it is Cold and gets condensation on it, so if AC is not blowing cold air then evaporator isn't cold, evaporator is where the cold air comes from.
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