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SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Lima 4 cylinder engines

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Old 10-17-2016
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Engine won't get hot

Hi i have a 94 ranger w the 2.3 engine the water pump was changed the thermostat changed twice rad and heater core flushed the only way i can get engine 2 run at norm temps is to put card board in front of rad any 1 have any thoughts? It's still warm here n engine just runs norm temp i no wen it gets cold the temp gonna go down thx for the help
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Old 10-18-2016
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You sure the actual gauge is working correctly?

Wayne
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Old 10-18-2016
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I dunno if gauge is working right or not i was going by feel w/o card board i can drive for 30 min n air from heater will b just slightly warm plus get right out remove rad cap and put finger in coolant it feels warm but not hot like it should b w 195 degree thermostat. W card board heater works great and engine atlst feels hot like it should and not over heat
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Old 10-18-2016
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Who installed the thermostat and what brand was it?

If it was not properly seated in the thermostat housing, the stat will not work as coolant can flow around the gap. There is(should be) a rubber gasket that seals the 'outlet' end of the stat against the inner diameter of the housing. It has to be stuffed in so the gasket seals. I think there are two 'legs' that hold the stat in place, and they(the flat tips on the end of the legs) must be adjusted(likely) to fit in the slight depression around the stat near the gasket area.
If you can put your hand on the upper radiator hose after the engine has run for a while, the stat is definitely not working. The host should be way too hot to touch for more than a second or two. It will hurt.
When all is working properly, BOTH heater hoses will be too hot to keep your fingers on.
tom
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Old 10-18-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmwalsh0 View Post
Who installed the thermostat and what brand was it?

If it was not properly seated in the thermostat housing, the stat will not work as coolant can flow around the gap. There is(should be) a rubber gasket that seals the 'outlet' end of the stat against the inner diameter of the housing. It has to be stuffed in so the gasket seals. I think there are two 'legs' that hold the stat in place, and they(the flat tips on the end of the legs) must be adjusted(likely) to fit in the slight depression around the stat near the gasket area.
If you can put your hand on the upper radiator hose after the engine has run for a while, the stat is definitely not working. The host should be way too hot to touch for more than a second or two. It will hurt.
When all is working properly, BOTH heater hoses will be too hot to keep your fingers on.
tom

It's a durlast stat this is the second I've put on there in as many weeks it does have a rubber seal and the legs u was talking about I'm pretty sure it's in there right but I'll check again but this time I'll take rad out so maybe i can see alittle better. When u put stat on do u use paper gasket they keep telling me i don't need it but it will leak every time i try. Would the cardboard make it heat up to norm temp stat wasn't seated right?
Thx for help
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Old 10-18-2016
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Stock thermostat is a 195degF, I assume you are using that temp.
They also make a 205degF for the 2.3l Lima.

Easiest way to tell if thermostat is working is to feel the upper rad hose at radiator end.
After starting engine cold, feel the rad hose, it of course will be cold.
After engine has run for 3 or 4 minutes feel it again, should STILL be cold.
If hose is heating up with the engine then thermostat is not working like it should.

The radiator in all vehicles is there to get rid of EXTRA heat, some engines just don't generate alot of extra heat, 2.3l is one of those engines.
In the winter the radiator may not get very warm at all, because thermostat is barely open.

A thermostat it will start to open at +/- 3deg of rating, and be fully open at 10deg above rating.
It is very normal for the thermostat to open and then close again as cooler coolant flows in from cold rad.

2.3l coolant temp sender(for dash gauge) is located at the back of the engine, so gauge will read just above a 1/4 when engine is warmed up to 195deg.
Most engines have the sender near thermostat so gauge will read just below 1/2 when warmed up.

When engine has been running for 10-15minutes it should be warmed up, heater hoses should be 195degF, upper rad hose can be cooler since thermostat is not open all the way.

If one heater hose is hot and the other much cooler then heater core is blocked, plugged up.
1994 model Ranger heater cores are easy to change, and not expensive.


Cardboard in front of the rad is common in colder climates, but it is mostly to stop the air flow into engine compartment not thru the rad since thermostat controls the flow thru rad.
You will often see semi-trucks with zippered covers to block air flow into engine bay when weather is cold
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Old 10-18-2016
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You should not need to remove the radiator to change the thermostat. I would remove the upper radiator hose from the housing, and then fiddle with the housing and stat at a more comfortable(light is GOOD) area. The gasket should be pushed tight against the inner of the housing, and be held stable by the legs.
I would clean the gasket surfaces down to bare metal, both the housing and engine block. I would use a normal paper gasket, possibly with the slightest 'wipe' of Permatex form-a-gasket onto both sides of the gasket. The P-tex will help hold the gasket onto the housing or block while the parts are aligned and bolted in place. Tighten to about 10 ft/lb or torque. If you used more Permatex than needed, it will slowly ooze out under compression. Let sit for a while, and then re-check the bolt tightness. If you skip the Permatex or sealant, the bolts should stay tight after install & torque. You do not need any sealant if both metal surfaces are clean and flat. If the housing has problems you can sometimes 'sand' it on a flat concrete surface to gain a smoother surface. Or use some sandpaper, grit side up, on a flat surface, moving the housing in a 'figure eight' to even out the abrasion.
tom
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Old 10-18-2016
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Ok thx guys I'm thinking it prolly is stat not seating right i was talking about pulling rad wen i changed stat again is because i put flush in it n thought if it would make it easier 2 line everything up n since i have 2 drain rad anyway. I'm gonna check stat this weekend n let every 1 no thx 4 the help guys
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Old 10-20-2016
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Thx for everyone's help it was the stat housing it was corroded where stat seats in i took little round wire brush n put in drill cleaned it out reinstalled stat now it's getting hot like it should thx to every 1 again

Scott

Last edited by Slp4days; 10-20-2016 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Miss spelled
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