I just bought a 96 ranger 2.3 L with a 4 speed with od.
Every morning once I get on the road coming up to 3rd and 4th gear it starts to bog down like its struggling for fuel but after a few seconds it regains power.
Then once its in neutral it idles abnormally high but if I shut it of and restart it it levels back out but parked the idle will drop almost stalling but level out once again.
It will do it maybe twice a day then runs fine.
All in all the truck is just real moody until its nice a warm.
All the plugs and wires are good and coil packs "all motorcraft"Its my first ford and I bought it because it seems to have a good reputation so I'm sure its something simple but I would rather just ask some ford enthusiast just in case.

 

First things to clean would be the MAF(mass air flow) sensor, and the IAC(idle air control) Valve.

Ford MAF sensor uses a heated wire, as air flows by the wire it is cooled off, this cooling off is measured and computer can calculate the weight of the air coming into the engine, and from that computer can calculate the 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio.
Over time the heated wire can get a coating on it, so data the computer is using is off a bit.
You clean this wire using electronic spray cleaner, NOT carb cleaner or similar, you can also get MAF cleaner at auto parts stores.
You should clean MAF sensor every few years.
Read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...CleanMAF.shtml

MAF sensors were changed from 4 wire to 6 wire in mid-1990's, MAF sensor didn't change but an Intake Air Temp(IAT) sensor was added, thats the extra 2 wires.

Fuel injected engines have no Jets like a carb engine did, so air flow changes doesn't suck more or less fuel into engine, and so an idle screw won't work, neither will a Choke Plate.
IAC valve is located on an air passage bypassing the throttle plate, it is controlled by the computer.
Computer opens the valve more to raise idle, and closes it more to lower idle, and computer adds or reduces fuel via the fuel injectors accordingly.

When key is off IAC valve will be closed all the way, when key is first turned on computer will start up and open IAC Valve all the way for starting.
That's why warm or cold the engine RPMs should go high just after starting and then drop as computer closes IAC valve to set idle according to engine temp, higher cold, lower warm.

IAC is a mechanical valve, it slides inside a tube, so it can stick if it gets dirty, this can cause RPM issues as computer ties to unstick it when RPMs are too high or too low.

This is a general IAC Valve cleaning procedure: http://www.rangerforum.com/threads/h...3-engine.4972/
And here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ad.php?t=84220

 

Awesome thanks for the advice I'm gonna start all of that today with a tune up along the side.
Once I'm finished I'll report back in a couple days with the results.

 

Great, these are just general maintenance projects that are often not done so it may not be the problem but engine should run better by doing them.

Also on a 20 year old Ranger the throttle cable will often be stretched a little, so you will no longer get full throttle.
Another simple project is to check for this and fix it with a wire tie/zip tie.
Under the dash the throttle cable hooks to the gas pedal, if you can pull the cable out then it has stretched, you put a wire tie on the cable to, in effect, shorten it back to original length.
Picture here: TRS Magazine - Throttle Cable Mod

Or Google: Ranger throttle cable mod images

People often think their high mile engine is just "tired", after throttle cable mod they say "holy crap Batman, it's a goer", lol.

For your other post about spark plugs
Look at the tips of the old spark plugs as you pull them out, they can tell you alot about how a cylinder is working.
Nice light brown on white electrode means good clean burn
The darker the color the Richer the burn or some oil is leaking in from intake valve seals.

 

Well I did the tune up,the fuel filter was pretty dirty but didnt fix the problem,then the check engine light came on so I ran diagnostic and discovered that it was the TPS " throttle position sensor " so I unplugged it and it began to run much better so Ill be replacing that next.