Exhaust popping, loss of acceleration, & white smoke from exhaust
#1
Exhaust popping, loss of acceleration, & white smoke from exhaust
Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L 5 speed.
Just recently my Ranger started making a popping noise from the exhaust when I accelerate at low speeds. There is also some white smoke that comes from the exhaust during ignition. Me and a friend also noticed a gas smell near the rear of the truck. It also idles rough sometimes. It'll run perfectly fine one drive, then like **** the other.
I read a couple of articles on this forum and some others trying to figure out the problem.
I already replaced the Fuel Filter two days ago, ran fine for a day. Now it's back to its popping. The spark plugs and wires have been recently replaced.
I just wanted to post on here and consult with someone before I go replacing parts and it continuing on..
EGR? EVR? IAC? Vacuum Leak? O2 Sensor? Coil Pack?
Any help getting my Ranger back up to health would be much appreciated!
-Tony
Just recently my Ranger started making a popping noise from the exhaust when I accelerate at low speeds. There is also some white smoke that comes from the exhaust during ignition. Me and a friend also noticed a gas smell near the rear of the truck. It also idles rough sometimes. It'll run perfectly fine one drive, then like **** the other.
I read a couple of articles on this forum and some others trying to figure out the problem.
I already replaced the Fuel Filter two days ago, ran fine for a day. Now it's back to its popping. The spark plugs and wires have been recently replaced.
I just wanted to post on here and consult with someone before I go replacing parts and it continuing on..
EGR? EVR? IAC? Vacuum Leak? O2 Sensor? Coil Pack?
Any help getting my Ranger back up to health would be much appreciated!
-Tony
#2
Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L 5 speed.
Just recently my Ranger started making a popping noise from the exhaust when I accelerate at low speeds. There is also some white smoke that comes from the exhaust during ignition. Me and a friend also noticed a gas smell near the rear of the truck. It also idles rough sometimes. It'll run perfectly fine one drive, then like **** the other.
I read a couple of articles on this forum and some others trying to figure out the problem.
I already replaced the Fuel Filter two days ago, ran fine for a day. Now it's back to its popping. The spark plugs and wires have been recently replaced.
I just wanted to post on here and consult with someone before I go replacing parts and it continuing on..
EGR? EVR? IAC? Vacuum Leak? O2 Sensor? Coil Pack?
Any help getting my Ranger back up to health would be much appreciated!
-Tony
Just recently my Ranger started making a popping noise from the exhaust when I accelerate at low speeds. There is also some white smoke that comes from the exhaust during ignition. Me and a friend also noticed a gas smell near the rear of the truck. It also idles rough sometimes. It'll run perfectly fine one drive, then like **** the other.
I read a couple of articles on this forum and some others trying to figure out the problem.
I already replaced the Fuel Filter two days ago, ran fine for a day. Now it's back to its popping. The spark plugs and wires have been recently replaced.
I just wanted to post on here and consult with someone before I go replacing parts and it continuing on..
EGR? EVR? IAC? Vacuum Leak? O2 Sensor? Coil Pack?
Any help getting my Ranger back up to health would be much appreciated!
-Tony
Are you needing to add any coolant??? White smoke indicates burning of coolant.
Has the timing belt ever been changed???
Have you checked your fuel lines for any leaks???
#3
#4
Autozone wont do it because they only do 1995 and up, same for my father's code reader.
The timing belt was changed along with the plugs and wires.
I added coolant recently and there's plenty. The radiator is relatively new.
There's no leaks in the fuel line.
I'm just confused why it'll do it one drive, and be perfectly fine the next.
#5
My guess is either you have a water jacket failure or a leaking head gasket. The other thing is you may have gotten bad gas which is cheaper. Get some stuff that takes water out of the fuel that you dump in your fuel tank. I wish you luck and hopefully get it remedied soon!
#6
Here is the procedure for retrieving codes on a OBD I system, go to www.autozone.com and reigistr for their free online manual. This is out of that manual.
EEC-IV EQUIPPED ENGINES
The EEC-IV equipped engines use an older diagnostic system to monitor and report engine related malfunctions. This older system is known as On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I). The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are two or three digit numbers, and can be read through the use of a scan tool, an analog voltmeter, or with the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) located on the instrument cluster. Use the accompanying OBD-I DTC charts to decipher the DTC's for the identification of the malfunctioning component or circuit.
Scan Tool Method
Connect the scan tool to the self-test connectors. Make certain the test button is unlatched or up.
Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached.
Turn the engine OFF and wait 10 seconds.
Activate the test button on the STAR tester.
Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the engine.
The codes will be transmitted. Six to nine seconds after the last code, a single separator pulse will be transmitted. Six to nine seconds after this pulse, the codes from the Continuous Memory will be transmitted.
Record all service codes displayed. Do not depress the throttle during the test.
Afdter the test, compare the DTC's retrieved with the accompanying OBD-I code identification charts in the Specifications Charts.
Analog Voltmeter Method
In the absence of a scan tool, an analog voltmeter may be used to retrieve stored fault codes. Set the meter range to read DC 0-15 volts. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the battery positive terminal and connect the negative lead of the meter to the Self-Test Output (STO) pin of the diagnostic connector.
Follow the directions given previously for performing the scan tool procedure. To activate the procedure, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return pin on the diagnostic connector to the self-test input connector. The self-test input line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector.
The codes will be transmitted as groups of needle sweeps. This method may be used to read either 2 or 3 digit codes. The Continuous Memory codes are separated from the other codes by 6 seconds, a single sweep and another 6 second delay.
After the test, compare the DTC's retrieved with the accompanying OBD-I code identification charts in the Specifications Charts.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dashboard may also be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method displays only the stored codes and does not allow any system investigation. It should only be used in field conditions where a quick check of stored codes is needed.
Follow the directions given previously for performing the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STO) connector. The self-test input line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector.
Codes are transmitted by place value with a pause between the digits; Code 32 would be sent as 3 flashes, a pause and 2 flashes. A slightly longer pause divides codes from each other. Be ready to count and record codes; the only way to repeat a code is to recycle the system. This method may be used to read either 2 or 3 digit codes. The Continuous Memory codes are separated from the other codes by 6 seconds, a single flash and another 6 second delay.
Like mistreguy mentioned you may have a leaking had gaset or crackeedhead, that is why I mentioned a leak down test and compression test.
If you have been adding coolant there is either leak externally or internally. Does the oil have a milky color to it???
Once you retrieve the codes post them and we will help. Just remember a code generalizes where a problem could be for diagnoses.
EEC-IV EQUIPPED ENGINES
The EEC-IV equipped engines use an older diagnostic system to monitor and report engine related malfunctions. This older system is known as On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I). The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are two or three digit numbers, and can be read through the use of a scan tool, an analog voltmeter, or with the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) located on the instrument cluster. Use the accompanying OBD-I DTC charts to decipher the DTC's for the identification of the malfunctioning component or circuit.
Scan Tool Method
Connect the scan tool to the self-test connectors. Make certain the test button is unlatched or up.
Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached.
Turn the engine OFF and wait 10 seconds.
Activate the test button on the STAR tester.
Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the engine.
The codes will be transmitted. Six to nine seconds after the last code, a single separator pulse will be transmitted. Six to nine seconds after this pulse, the codes from the Continuous Memory will be transmitted.
Record all service codes displayed. Do not depress the throttle during the test.
Afdter the test, compare the DTC's retrieved with the accompanying OBD-I code identification charts in the Specifications Charts.
Analog Voltmeter Method
In the absence of a scan tool, an analog voltmeter may be used to retrieve stored fault codes. Set the meter range to read DC 0-15 volts. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the battery positive terminal and connect the negative lead of the meter to the Self-Test Output (STO) pin of the diagnostic connector.
Follow the directions given previously for performing the scan tool procedure. To activate the procedure, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return pin on the diagnostic connector to the self-test input connector. The self-test input line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector.
The codes will be transmitted as groups of needle sweeps. This method may be used to read either 2 or 3 digit codes. The Continuous Memory codes are separated from the other codes by 6 seconds, a single sweep and another 6 second delay.
After the test, compare the DTC's retrieved with the accompanying OBD-I code identification charts in the Specifications Charts.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dashboard may also be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method displays only the stored codes and does not allow any system investigation. It should only be used in field conditions where a quick check of stored codes is needed.
Follow the directions given previously for performing the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STO) connector. The self-test input line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector.
Codes are transmitted by place value with a pause between the digits; Code 32 would be sent as 3 flashes, a pause and 2 flashes. A slightly longer pause divides codes from each other. Be ready to count and record codes; the only way to repeat a code is to recycle the system. This method may be used to read either 2 or 3 digit codes. The Continuous Memory codes are separated from the other codes by 6 seconds, a single flash and another 6 second delay.
Like mistreguy mentioned you may have a leaking had gaset or crackeedhead, that is why I mentioned a leak down test and compression test.
If you have been adding coolant there is either leak externally or internally. Does the oil have a milky color to it???
Once you retrieve the codes post them and we will help. Just remember a code generalizes where a problem could be for diagnoses.
#8
211Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
222 IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
223 Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
224Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems
543 Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
556Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
from the sounds of the fuel pump shorting out, you got water in the gas. and a bad coil pack.
222 IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
223 Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
224Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems
543 Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
556Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
from the sounds of the fuel pump shorting out, you got water in the gas. and a bad coil pack.
#9
UPDATE!
I got rid of most of the codes.
I replaced BOTH coil packs.
Reset the ECM.
& i'm still getting the following codes
222
223
224
The plugs and wires are both recently new.
Dielectric compound on all of it.
It doesn't idle rough anymore.
But it still has the gas smell and misses once and awhile.
Checked wires and connectors, they seem to all be intact.
So anyone else have an experience or guess on where i should start looking?
I'd appreciate all the help to get this Ranger back to health!
-Tony
I got rid of most of the codes.
I replaced BOTH coil packs.
Reset the ECM.
& i'm still getting the following codes
222
223
224
The plugs and wires are both recently new.
Dielectric compound on all of it.
It doesn't idle rough anymore.
But it still has the gas smell and misses once and awhile.
Checked wires and connectors, they seem to all be intact.
So anyone else have an experience or guess on where i should start looking?
I'd appreciate all the help to get this Ranger back to health!
-Tony
#10
UPDATE!
I got rid of most of the codes.
I replaced BOTH coil packs.
Reset the ECM.
& i'm still getting the following codes
222
223
224
The plugs and wires are both recently new.
Dielectric compound on all of it.
It doesn't idle rough anymore.
But it still has the gas smell and misses once and awhile.
Checked wires and connectors, they seem to all be intact.
So anyone else have an experience or guess on where i should start looking?
I'd appreciate all the help to get this Ranger back to health!
-Tony
I got rid of most of the codes.
I replaced BOTH coil packs.
Reset the ECM.
& i'm still getting the following codes
222
223
224
The plugs and wires are both recently new.
Dielectric compound on all of it.
It doesn't idle rough anymore.
But it still has the gas smell and misses once and awhile.
Checked wires and connectors, they seem to all be intact.
So anyone else have an experience or guess on where i should start looking?
I'd appreciate all the help to get this Ranger back to health!
-Tony
I will look for a video to test the injectors.
#11
#12
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