My 1995 auto 2.3 Ranger started doing this about a week ago. It barely goes up hills and only goes maybe 20-25 mph when floored and it takes almost five minutes just to get it going that fast. I noticed last night after work that the fuel pump doesn't seem to be turning on anymore, but I thought a vehicle couldn't start with a dead fuel pump? The Ranger has slowly been losing power for quite some time now, but it's never been this bad before.

When driving with the windows down I noticed a "whooshing" sound similar to driving through water that would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas. Also, the truck has been drinking gas. I just put 5 gallons in yesterday and it's already below the E mark and that's after just a 35 mile round trip. Does this sound like the fuel pump to you folks?

 

No sounds like plugged cats or an exhaust obstruction or bad o2's can all make it drink gas. The woosh sounds like an exhaust obstruction any chance you have access to an OBD1 code reader for it the code will be vague as most pre OBD2 are but it might help narrow it down to a certain system at fault.

 

Yes, obstructed exhaust
Check flow out of tail pipe while someone "tries" to rev the engine.

Yes, bad upstream(closest to engine) O2 sensor, could be running engine too rich
(downstream sensor is just to check the Cat converter)

Failed EGR system, EGR valve is opening too much fouling up the air/fuel mix.

Clogged fuel filter, they are $10 and should be changed every 5 years or so, but wouldn't drink gas or make whoosh sound

 

yea clogged cat which can happen when an o2 takes a dump and keeps the engine running too rich or just from high mileage


but a bad o2 wont cause the engine to be severely down on power...granted it doesnt take much to give you that feel on a 2.3 lima

 

Also just thought check your 02 sensor fuse i blew one a while back after the 5speed swap from faulty speedo wiring and it caused everything you describe except the whoosh but since fuses are easy definitely worth checking.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. My brother has a vacuum gauge so I'm gonna try and take the Ranger to his place this weekend so he can take a look at it. I work 6 day cycles so it's been a little hard to take the time since it's my only vehicle.

 

Thats a good start also if it comes to it unhook the exhaust from the manifold and see if anything changes as far as performance that can quickly identify a clog.

 

Just a quick update. I took my Ranger to Advance again and had them use their code scanner. Before they told me they couldn't because it wasn't a 96 or newer vehicle, but I asked the guy if he would try anyway and it turned out that it worked. It's throwing 2 codes and both are P0401 aka EGR insufficient flow. Would this cause the truck to be as slow as it is?

 

1995 and 1/2 is when Rangers started getting the new EEC-V computers and OBDII protocols, so yes your 1995 could be OBDII

EGR flow is checked by the DPFE sensor, which is a common sensor to fail every 50,000 miles, non-Ford DPFE sensors seems to last longer and are less expensive.

EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) system works like this:
EGR valve is connected to exhaust manifold and intake manifold, the valve is opened by vacuum pressure and closed by a spring.
The Vacuum pressure at the EGR valve is controlled by the computer using an electric actuator, EGR Modulator.

The DPFE sensor measures exhaust pressure at two places on the exhaust manifold, it has two hoses for this, one near the EGR Valve inlet, and one farther away.
If EGR valve is closed then both hoses would have the same pressure.
As EGR valve opens the hose closest to it's inlet will have a pressure drop, this "pressure difference" between the two hoses tells the computer if EGR is open and how far it is open.
DPFE = differential pressure feedback

If there is a leak in one of the hoses or the DPFE sensor itself is giving incorrect data to the computer, then the computer may be opening the EGR valve too much, this fouls up the air/fuel mix and would result in a loss of power.

The EGR valve itself or it's manifold tube may be clogged up with carbon buildup, so when it is opened there is very little pressure change in the exhaust manifold, so DPFE sensor may be working fine, and it is a flow issue, BUT...........the lack of exhaust gas in the intake under load should produce "pinging/knock" sounds which you have not mentioned, there also shouldn't be a lack of power with reduced EGR flow.

A lack of vacuum pressure at the EGR modulator would prevent the computer from being able to open the EGR valve all the way, BUT.....again I would expect 'ping/knocking" to be the symptom, not a lack of power, unless it was a direct vacuum leak leaning out the air/fuel mix.

So with those codes my money would be on DPFE sensor or DPFE hose issue.


Just a "why it's there" note:
The EGR system is not there to re-burn exhaust gases to lower emissions, popular mis-conception, Exhaust gases are only sent to intake when engine is under load.
When an engine is under load the cylinders heat up, this causes the NOx emissions to go up, the extra heat will also cause pinging/knocking with lower Octane fuel.
By adding some exhaust gas to the engine while under load it has a cooling effect, yes hot gases cooler temp, go figure, lol.
This reduces the NOx emissions(main purpose), but also reduces pinging/knocking.
A properly operating EGR system doesn't add or reduce power, same as a properly operating Cat converter doesn't add or reduce power, these are myths.
But improper operation can reduce power, in either case.
EGR systems are not required on all engines and in all states/countries.
Some engines don't have high NOx emissions under load, or high enough to require EGR system.

 

Thanks for the information Ron. That was a great read.

 

If the diaphragm in the fuel pump ruptures it will tend to flood the engine. You will have extremely low fuel economy and loss of power. Pull your dipstick and see if you smell any trace of fuel mixed in the oil.

 

I think you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR), located on the Fuel Rail.
It has a vacuum hose attached so a leaking FPR diaphragm would allow un-metered fuel to be sucked into the intake

 

You are correct, I meant the FPR. It was a long time ago when it happened on my 88 2.9l.

 

I am having the same problem with the same codes. I have replaced plugs, coil, new head all new gaskets new battery new fuel pump, fuel filter, oil change, fuel fill line, ignition cylinder could it relay be my DPFE because she runs like like **** no power after 3000 rpm's will only go 45 mph floored. The P1401 code is all the scanners are telling me I was getting a misfire in cylinder 2 code but reseat my valves and that stopped help.

 

DPFE sensors last 50-60k miles so do need to be replaced.

You also describe symptoms of a restricted exhaust system, Mufflers and Cats rust from the inside out because one of the by-products of burning gasoline(H) and Air(O) is H2O(water), this water condenses on the metal parts and starts them rusting on the inside of the exhaust system, over the year bits and pieces can fall off and partially block the flow.
If all the exhaust can't flow out then all the new fuel/air mix can't flow in, so power drops off.
Just put your hand over the tail pipe and have someone REV the engine, see if flow flattens out even when RPMs are increasing.
A $25 vacuum gauge can also ID clogged exhaust, along with other engine issues

 

Vac is good no plugged cat or muffler.

 

That only leaves a bad DPFE could that be the only reason for such a dramatic loss in power?

 

No, but if you have the code for DPFE issue I would correct that first before moving on

 

I have had two different Mechanics look at it one said it might be timing but the other checked with a timing light said it checked out. The local muffler guy said there is no way it was the cat or the muffler. I am taken it to the local dealership on Monday hope they can point me in the right direction. The compression checked the timing checked the vac checked all the grounds checked fuel pressure checked the fuel injector solenoids checked the only code i am getting is the p1401 high voltage DPFE sensor is the only code I am getting hopping a roadtest will tell me more

 

So what does a plugged cat feel like? I ask only because my truck is 17 years old and has the original cat. When I start the truck I feel exhaust out of the tailpipe and it doesn't feel like it's being blocked. What's an easy way to tell if it is? I can get up to speed on level highway and get to 65mph-70 and maintain fine... but on inclines or hills I loose some speed. Mind you it's a 2.3l Auto with 4:10 gears and 31" tires... I am sure that plays a huge part but off the line the acceleration is OK, just not quick/fast.

I don't get any bogginess when driving or anything that appears out of the norm? o2 Sensors replaced a couple years back, no CEL or pending CELs either.

-Nigel

 

Clogged exhaust slows acceleration and removes the extra power from scavenging exhaust system.
Vacuum gauge is a very handy tool to have and not expensive, $20-$30

You can test for clogged exhaust with vacuum gauge

Tests you can do seen here: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine

No matter what they add to the outside of the engine, i.e. electronics, it still remains a self powered air pump.
And when you want to test a pump of any kind you test pressure, vacuum is a pressure, and it can tell you alot about your "pump"

 

sounds like plugged cats