Well, first, those of you with Doetsch spindles should do what Jon Dugan did (jdugan4859) when he installed his and grind or cut the edge off the outer radius of the lower arm as shown below. I didn't cut ANY off there, and discovered that it's a mistake not to cut it.
I found that the lower bolts that hold the spindle shaft to the body of the spindle were rubbing the a-arm badly, particularly on the drivers side. This was not apparent when I first assembled the side, but I tried it WITHOUT tightening the lower ball joint. But apparently when I tightened, it, it pulled the spindle in and it rubbed.
Word: grind or cut that outer radius. If you look at the pictures further down you can see that I did grind mine down finally.
Okay, now as for installing ball joints: BIG PAIN IN THE *** -- UNLESS you have a ball joint press.
Someone asked me about getting them out in another topic and I didn't pay much attention -- shame on me. You can't hammer them out (well maybe you can but I couldn't) and it's very frustrating. I couldn't rig anything up with a big C-clamp like someone told me you could do -- just can't get it in the right spot.
I rented a ball joint press from AutoZone for $99. Well, actually it's a loaner and I get the $99 back when I return it. Well worth tying up the money if you don't have one.
There are two attached pictures. Picture 1 shows the ball joint being pressed out. The tool is like a C-clamp on steroids. The end opposite the screw has a hole in it that the stud can pass through, and sleeves of different sizes that can be put on pedestals on either side of the tool
In picture 1 (removal configuration), the largest sleeve is on the bottom, and the screw is directly in contact with the ball joint (don't forget to remove the snap ring, by the way). You just torque until the ball joint falls down into that big sleeve. The big sleeve does not contact the ball joint, but goes around it and contacts the a-arm.
In picture 2 is one of two steps in the install. You use a smaller sleeve on the bottom that now contacts the flange around the ball joint. The top now has a pedestal on it that contacts the a-arm. Tighten until resisance increases dramatically, then stop.
I didn't take a picture of phase 2 of the install. In that, you put a sleeve on top that goes around the joint to contact the a-arm -- the sleeve goes between the pedestal and the a-arm. My tool was small enough that I had to do it in two stages. For all I know, you can start with the sleeve on it with other tools.
I wasted an INCREDIBLE amount of time farting around before I went and got the tool. With the tool, maybe an hour per side. I lost another 3 or 4 hours trying different things to remove it, and then traveling to parts stores trying to find a press (note: that's what the phone is for, MORON!)
Anyway, thought I'd share this with you.
Oh, and one more tip: It's almost impossible to get the spindle down over the ball joint stud. But you need it out of the way to use the press. The solution is to loosen your t-bar adjuster so the lower a-amp comes up quite a bit.
Then you can push the upper down enough to get the stud out of the spindle without prying or removing anything else. I did the replacement removing nothing but the tie rod ends from the spindle, one of the anti-sway bar links, and the lower ball joint castle nut. This saved some time and trouble. I know some say to remove the whole spindle -- but that's too much work.
And what condition were my old ball joints in? TOASTED. I can move them in and out by HAND, I don't even need a pry bar test. They were really gone and ready to fail. I think failing to cut the relief in the lowe arm made it worse by side-stressing the ball joint in ways it was not designed for.
If you want one of these tools, Harbor Freight has them for about $20, and about $8 for shipping. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335