coilover brackets - Page 73 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource
Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiast!

Go Back   Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource Arrow Ranger-Forums Technical Forum Arrow Suspension Tech

Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1801  
Old 04-17-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by ME00Stepside View Post
Mike, I actually agree with you on going lighter, but most guys around here seem to want the heavier side of the scale. Personally, I'm putting 500 lb coils on my truck that has no added weight. The 600 lb springs were too stiff for me.

I'm starting to also think that the ratings are not accurate accross some of the spring manufacturers. It's the only thing that makes sense when hearing all of the different setups and results.
I agree with ya, I may step down to a 500 from my 600s on my DBR kit.

As for the various differences I have a few theory's

Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.

A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"

Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)

If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.

This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.

Last edited by mikerider; 04-17-2015 at 11:34 AM.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1802  
Old 04-19-2015
BLK02's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
I am: adrian hrivik
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: BC
Vehicle: 2006 ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 1,341
Total Props: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerider View Post
I agree with ya, I may step down to a 500 from my 600s on my DBR kit.

As for the various differences I have a few theory's

Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.

A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"

Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)

If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.

This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.
the difference between the 10 and 18'' spring will be the guage of the spring wire for sure but the stiffness will still be the same. if they are different lengths they will still coil bind at the same spot in travel as well.

also morris, the shock valving will not have an effect on the spring causing it to break.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1803  
Old 04-19-2015
BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
I am: Andrew Harris
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle: 2002 Ford Ranger
Posts: 368
Total Props: 4
I'll agree on this at least with my setup. My 700s where slightly stiff with the stock arms, then when I added btf arms it provided leverage and softened up the front where it was nice. Adding a bumper added enough weight where I had coil bind on hard dips and cornering off road. My new 800 lb springs provide the ability to not bind up but still have a good ride with all the leverage on my coils. No more bind now and feels more planted. But if I had longer shocks and hoops I'd set it back to 600 since the leverage would be less
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1804  
Old 04-20-2015
Member
 
I am: Jimmyd O
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aiea, HI
Vehicle: 03 Ranger XLT 4x4
Posts: 59
Total Props: 0
Been looking at this thread for going on a year now or so. Time to change out dead Superlift shocks in the front. Would really like to get rid of the T-bars but the time issue for me is a problem. Another issue is that I don't have a garage where I live. I will soon have another vehicle, so that's no a concern. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the hardest, how hard is this project. Mind you, when I had a garage, I have pulled my trans 5r55e and did a partial rebuild, I have installed lockers front and rear and did my Superlift install about 11 yrs ago. Thanks
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1805  
Old 04-20-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDO808 View Post
Been looking at this thread for going on a year now or so. Time to change out dead Superlift shocks in the front. Would really like to get rid of the T-bars but the time issue for me is a problem. Another issue is that I don't have a garage where I live. I will soon have another vehicle, so that's no a concern. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the hardest, how hard is this project. Mind you, when I had a garage, I have pulled my trans 5r55e and did a partial rebuild, I have installed lockers front and rear and did my Superlift install about 11 yrs ago. Thanks
if you can weld its a 4-5 hour job, with your skill level that should be no problem. should be easy enough to complete in a day at the longest.

basics are remove T bars and drop brackets, cut off bump stop mounts, mount brackets, mount coilovers, tack in braces, remove coilovers, finish weld, paint, re install coilovers, install new bump stops and limit straps.

easy enough.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1806  
Old 04-21-2015
Member
 
I am: Jimmyd O
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aiea, HI
Vehicle: 03 Ranger XLT 4x4
Posts: 59
Total Props: 0
Darn, no access to a MIG! :( I also get having to cycle your new susp. set up so you can set up limiting straps. Question, I have bumpstops that are mounted already. They came with the Superlift kit. Do I need to ditch those and mount others? Thanks.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1807  
Old 04-21-2015
Level III Supporter
iTrader: (2)
 
I am: A car modding addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maine
Vehicle: 2000 Ranger Stepside 4x4
Posts: 1,206
Total Props: 6
You need to trim back the bump stop mounts to be flush with the side of the frame rail, and redrill to mount the stops on the remaining portion, because the coils will not clear the bump stop mount as it is from the factory.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1808  
Old 04-29-2015
Member
 
I am: bill gerard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: queens, ny
Vehicle: 2003 ford fx4
Drive Type: 4X4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 6
Total Props: 0
with the fox setup, say 650 lb. springs, do you get any more droop than stock? how much better articulation do you get...........I know the main reason for me to want to do this modification is to get rid of the toraion bars and hangers, since I plan on super lifting mine...........I reall do want to read this whole thread,.....and will, but can ya help a guy out?

thanks
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1809  
Old 04-29-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelbill View Post
with the fox setup, say 650 lb. springs, do you get any more droop than stock? how much better articulation do you get...........I know the main reason for me to want to do this modification is to get rid of the toraion bars and hangers, since I plan on super lifting mine...........I reall do want to read this whole thread,.....and will, but can ya help a guy out?

thanks
The travel (droop and bump) must remain the same or you will over extend the stock tripod joint and destroy the stock cv.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1810  
Old 04-30-2015
Member
 
I am: bill gerard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: queens, ny
Vehicle: 2003 ford fx4
Drive Type: 4X4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 6
Total Props: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerider View Post
The travel (droop and bump) must remain the same or you will over extend the stock tripod joint and destroy the stock cv.
I do remember reading something on this.....thank you for the response.......in your opinion, what are the best ball joints?
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1811  
Old 04-30-2015
BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
I am: Andrew Harris
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle: 2002 Ford Ranger
Posts: 368
Total Props: 4
Moog problem solvers for ball joints
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1812  
Old 04-30-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02 View Post
Moog problem solvers for ball joints
That's what I run and have been happy with them. Only complaint it the lower boot not being very durable.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1813  
Old 05-05-2015
Member
 
I am: bill gerard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: queens, ny
Vehicle: 2003 ford fx4
Drive Type: 4X4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 6
Total Props: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02 View Post
Moog problem solvers for ball joints

thanks
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1814  
Old 05-06-2015
Member
 
I am: michael redlin
Join Date: May 2015
Location: walnut cove,NC
Vehicle: 1993 ford ranger xlt
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 3
Total Props: 0
Icon5 project ranger

I am new to the forum and iv had my ranger for about 2 years and i love the truck but i would love to stance it out. lowered roughly 4-6in all the way around and i was just wondering what would be the cheapest but reliable
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1815  
Old 05-06-2015
bravetitan24's Avatar
Strokin'
iTrader: (3)
 
I am: Justin D.
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Haughton, LA
Vehicle: 2002 Ranger
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 347
Posts: 2,035
Total Props: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmndsupply336 View Post
I am new to the forum and iv had my ranger for about 2 years and i love the truck but i would love to stance it out. lowered roughly 4-6in all the way around and i was just wondering what would be the cheapest but reliable
So are you asking about coilovers or drop kits?

Cheap and reliable don't exactly go together.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1816  
Old 05-06-2015
Member
 
I am: michael redlin
Join Date: May 2015
Location: walnut cove,NC
Vehicle: 1993 ford ranger xlt
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 3
Total Props: 0
How should I go about lowering my stock 93 ranger
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1817  
Old 05-06-2015
Member
 
I am: Dan Long
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gainesville, FL
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Sport Trac
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 5.0
Posts: 18
Total Props: 0
Do some research on DJM Dream Beams, this thread doesn't apply to your truck.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1818  
Old 05-08-2015
Member
 
I am: Father Doug
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AZ
Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger XLT
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 8
Total Props: 0
Doing my conversion in the next week or two, want to get as much travel as possible with 5" fox shock and a 10" spring. Will the CV or ball joint bind first? Was thinking of upgrading the UCAs or will the stock CV not allow the extra down travel?
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1819  
Old 05-08-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Doug View Post
Doing my conversion in the next week or two, want to get as much travel as possible with 5" fox shock and a 10" spring. Will the CV or ball joint bind first? Was thinking of upgrading the UCAs or will the stock CV not allow the extra down travel?
At stock length the inner tripod joint of the cv binds around 9" of travel. Make sure to run limit straps and good bumpstops if your going to push the truck
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1820  
Old 05-08-2015
Member
 
I am: Lukas Rodgers
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cisne
Vehicle: 1999 Ford Explorer Sport
Posts: 23
Total Props: 0
X2 on limit straps. And get heavy duty ones. Mine stretched a good bit under load and it was a pain to get them adjusted right because of it.

I looked into upgraded CV half-shafts to get a little more travel but for the price it didn't seem worth it. The ball joints are going to bind next but you could upgrade them next I suppose to a different style.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1821  
Old 05-08-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by griz700rocket View Post
X2 on limit straps. And get heavy duty ones. Mine stretched a good bit under load and it was a pain to get them adjusted right because of it.
All straps will stretch about an inch it's a good idea to install an adjustable clevis on the strap so you can tighten it as the strap grows.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1822  
Old 05-08-2015
Member
 
I am: Father Doug
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AZ
Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger XLT
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 8
Total Props: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerider View Post
All straps will stretch about an inch it's a good idea to install an adjustable clevis on the strap so you can tighten it as the strap grows.
Yes I definitely want to get the adjustable clevis for this reason. About what size strap should I get for a non-super lifted application?
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1823  
Old 05-09-2015
mikerider's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (8)
 
I am: Michael Smith
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Renton WA
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger
Posts: 2,459
Total Props: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Doug View Post
Yes I definitely want to get the adjustable clevis for this reason. About what size strap should I get for a non-super lifted application?
8" fits well at stock height, I use 10" on
Lifted trucks.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1824  
Old 05-09-2015
joshyddog's Avatar
Member
 
I am: josh L
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: puyallup, wa
Vehicle: 2005 Edge
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 156
Total Props: 0
Any one got a link for these? Im not finding it.
Fox "Long Rod Ends" are part #213-01-138-A (Series 2.0 w/ 5/8" Shaft) = Qty of 2.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
  #1825  
Old 05-09-2015
Member
 
I am: Father Doug
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AZ
Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger XLT
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 8
Total Props: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by joshyddog View Post
Any one got a link for these? Im not finding it.
Fox "Long Rod Ends" are part #213-01-138-A (Series 2.0 w/ 5/8" Shaft) = Qty of 2.
I couldn't actually find them on a website but when I called DSMS to place my order, they were able to add them and even install for free.
Reply With Quote
+ 0 -
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coilover brackets 2003level2 Suspension Tech 56 05-30-2016 07:40 AM
My Sport Trac (Gone Coilover'd!) Coilover Pic Thread shooterdude199 Snapshots 17 09-27-2011 03:25 PM
For Sale: Coilover brackets straps and more-WA 5.0fox Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 18 11-06-2010 11:32 AM
For Sale: NEW RCD coilover brackets and hardware!!!!HI 808danger Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 10 07-14-2010 03:52 AM
Want to Buy: Coilover Conversion Brackets (MA) 99offroadrngr Engine & Drivetrain 18 07-12-2010 01:04 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:28 AM.