Heims for steering. Longevity? Cons?
#26
Beard, not sure bout on the pitman arm, never had to take that one off, but on the knuckles i torque them to what the hanyes manual says (can't remember right off) and i've tried the pickle fork think to only rip the seals, so I just hit the knuckle with a hammer and it pops loose after a few hits, even did it on my buddies new F150... Should work on the pitman arm too, and you could try a ball pen hammer, they work well too!
#27
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
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how are u going about hitting the TREs? a few smacks on the part they go into usually knocks em loose. or u can always spin the caslte nut on to hit the TRE. either way i put the castle nut on upside down to keep the threads from getting banged up and so the end doesnt just fall out.
id also check legality of hiems for on road use. but from what i read no one seems to have any issues with them. i might modify my factory 79 trac bar with a hiem on the end that goes to the frame for a little adjustment.
id also check legality of hiems for on road use. but from what i read no one seems to have any issues with them. i might modify my factory 79 trac bar with a hiem on the end that goes to the frame for a little adjustment.
#28
switching out heims is repeat work? and you have to pay every time, you can't keep getting them free
...after you buy a new pitman arm, and high steer arms sure..
...after you buy a new pitman arm, and high steer arms sure..
#29
#30
#31
ha that just got me thinking about something else on the truck. thanks! i forgot i have a heim on the upper link wedged between the exhaust and the frame, I have this noise that is driving me insane, so maybe its that.
Ive got the high misalignments coming too for the 7/8" heims that will take it down to a 3/4" bolt.
Ive got the high misalignments coming too for the 7/8" heims that will take it down to a 3/4" bolt.
#32
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