Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

how to achieve a more sporty suspension?

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  #51  
Old 12-06-2011
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upgrade the tires...generally one section width wider, one inch larger wheel, and two sizes smaller sidewall(ex.215/70-14 to 225/60-15). i also went to a performance tire with an "h" speed rating(130 mph) which is a stickier compound... with no factory sway bars of any sort, it would still eat corners... scared the hell out of a friend taking corners near where i live at over double the recommended speed(i.e. 25 mph corner at 60)
 
  #52  
Old 10-05-2013
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n3elz
addicted to rf here as well
 
  #53  
Old 03-29-2015
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back from the dead. sorry to thread revive but will the roush rear sway bar mod work on a 97 xlt 4x2 3.0? the site lists 98-05.
 
  #54  
Old 03-29-2015
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Suspension is different for the front from 97 to 98. Afaik one is TTB (97) and the other is IFS (98) that has upper and lower control arms (UCA and LCA)
I don't think TTB equipped trucks had a front sway bar so that might be why you can't find info.
 
  #55  
Old 03-30-2015
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thanks for the reply. does anyone know if anyone makes a sway bar mounting kit for the 9x-97 rangers?
 
  #56  
Old 05-09-2015
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Sorry to break the news, Eldebrock no longer makes the IAS shocks, maybe they are now rebranded?
I bought mine in '09 when they were selling off inventory/ might find them NOS or pre-owned

The OEM rear bar is what I have installed along with 245/70 tires on OEM alloy rims

It seems well balenced with a good ride quality that sticks in the twisties
 
  #57  
Old 10-14-2019
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WRU

Originally Posted by John Moorehead
Aight....back for more.

The other option for the front (besides coils alone) is a set of new control arms. DJM makes the only set. The benefits are lighter arms, ball joints (included) that are designed to work at that geometry, and polyurethane bushings (firmer than stock; allows less flex in the bushing area).

Control arms are desinged to be used with a lowering coil. Most front drops using control arms end up totalling about 4 inches lower than stock...which will cause stock diameter tires to rub.

While more expensive, control arms are better in the long run I believe, if for nothing else than maintenance. BUT, I've still not found out 100% if control arms can be used with stock springs....can't get a straight answer. The benefit of this would be only lowering the truck 2", allowing you to use stock diameter rolling stock.

REAR SUSPENSION:
````````````````

In the rear, we don't have many options. A sway bar definately helps. Like Bob said, don't go crazy in the rear unless you've matched the front to it. You want the front to have a stiffer bar for two reasons:

A) to combat understeer, something our trucks are plagued with...if the front rolls too much, it "plows" through corners. In other words, the rolling action makes the truck want to continue rolling straight. If you decrease the weight's ability to shift (stiffer bar) you thereby decrease the inertia's ability to pull you forward. Result? You make the corner; faster, and with less lean. Win-win.

B) Stiffer bars in the back will cause the inside wheel to lift during hard cornering, and if that wheel is the only powered wheel (if you have an open diff) or even if you have a differential that relies on the other wheel's torque (torsen) the truck will cease to accelerate out of the corner until the wheel makes contact with the ground again. Not a life or death situation, but undesireable at best. It will DEFINATELY slow you down in corners.


Now, also, the rear can be lowered in two ways:

A) Monoleaf -- A single leaf spring tuned for handling and lowering, and nothing else. So if you still want to haul stuff, see option B...

B) Flip Kit. This positions the axle ABOVE the leaf pack, simply moving the axle closer to the frame and "lowering" the rear. In this case, blocks that truck guys normally use for lifting can now be used for lowering, because they position the axle even closer to the driveshaft...not good for handling. The flip alone is PLENTY. In fact, a flip alone will yield a 5" drop, easily. And you still use the stock leaf pack, so you have more hauling ability than a monoleaf.

The solution for bringing the rear "back up" to a more subtle and practical 3-4" drop is to use lowering shackles from a fullsize truck. Yes, Lowering shackles. On Rangers, they actually "lift" the truck by moving the rear mounting point for the springs further away from the truck's frame. NOW, the rear is lowered anywhere from 3-4"....much better for handling that the 5"+ from the flip by itself. You want some distance between the frame and axle for proper suspension articulation.

There is one ugly side effect of the shackle...Pinion angle interference....

See this article I made on RPS for that info....TOO MUCH TYPING.
vvvvv
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tec...ibration.shtml

Tired yet?

Now that all that's aside, you would then have a truck that handles well....

See my website for my suspension mods....and a side profile of the "final lowering effect" of all that listed above.

Like Bob also said: Tires, especially tires and new wheels, will help tremendously.

Stock rubber sucks. Period. A stickier compound and a better tread pattern will yield better handling that stock, even using the same wheels.

However, a bigger wheel diameter with a smaller profile tire will give you less sidewall flex, and when you add a wider wheel to the equation, BAM! You've got a handler....

Of course, the stock suspension can only work so well, even with wider tires.

But when you combine better rolling stock with a more agressive suspension, you have a truck that handles on rails...

At this point, I'm going to hold back and let you ask specific questions....tell me your goals, and your budget, and I'll try to come up with a good suspension system for you, and I'll even factor in different wheels and tires.

So, ask away!
Jiohn Morehead I have questions WRU?
 
  #58  
Old 03-15-2023
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so with the DJV control arms you mentioned earlier with stock springs and it lowering 2'', do the control arms add to the drop and if so will i need a 2'' coil spring instead of a 4''
 
  #59  
Old 03-15-2023
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[QUOTE=V8 Level II;110893]Add a rear sway bar. You already have one on the front. A rear bar will flatten the cornering a bit and balance the truck more front to rear. Just don't go overly large on the rear without increasing the size of the front bar, too. I would recommend finding a factory Ranger rear bar - it bolts right on and is tuned to work with the stock front bar.

You can upgrade the shocks if you like but I think you would get better results from a stickier set of tires.[/QUOT.
Did the OEM rear bar, made a big difference without affecting the ride
 
  #60  
Old 08-25-2023
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Suspension changes

Picked up a 94 Ranger 2.3 5 speed with 290K on the clock. Rebuilt the engine and now it's time for some suspension work. I replaced the front shocks with stock which improved the ride some but I'm trying to figure what's been done to the suspension to get the lower stance it has. I know the real axel has been flipped with the springs below the axel but have no idea on that's been done to the front.I like the way it sits but when I throw a 500 lb bike in the back it squats and is like driving a waterbed in the rear. Id like to replace the springs add a rear sway and stiffen the rear end when its loaded and still keep the lowered stance.Will a sway bar off a mustang or explorer fit or for that matter what rear end could be put in so I could have disc brakes and maybe even positraction? I'm a pretty handy in the mechanics and fab dept and not afraid to get my hands dirty. Would appreciate a little wisdom.
Thanks
Dave
 
  #61  
Old 10-14-2023
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I went from a Mazda Miata to a 2010 2.3L Ranger five speed. . . I know what handling is.
When I put Bilstein racing shocks on on the Ranger, I was A-truckin-MAZED!
Could not believe how flat I was cornering, in a Veh. with suck a (relatively) high ride-height ! I didn't bother with the planned rear sway bar . . .
 
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