Originally Posted by 67cobain94
9. Take pliers (not a socket) and tighten the nut until it's snug. If it's too loose you'll feel the rotor wobbling and if it's too tight the rotor will bind. Pliers make it almost idiotproof so you can't overtighten it.
10. Put the castle nut and a new cotter pin in. Hammer the dust cap back on until the lip is flush all the way around.
11. Slide the caliper bracket/caliper back on the rotor. Tighten the 2 bolts on it nice and tight (80 lb/ft or so).
12. Reinstall the wheel and pull up and down/side to side on the wheel to make sure it's nice and tight. Repeat on the other side. Just don't forget even if you didn't move the brake pads pump your brakes first.
It's really, really easy. I'd say 2 hours tops if it's your first time.
not doubting you on this that sounds about right, but i know on the 4wd trucks i've done when you start tightening down the nuts your supposed to rotate the rotor at the same time to allow the bearings to seat in the races, then back the nut off and torque it... i though it would be the same regardless of 2 or 4wd...... that's the only thing that caught my eye that MIGHT be wrong, 2wd could b different.....
only thing i suggest, it makes things workin easier.. by some latex gloves, that way when you need clean hands for something pull the gloves off, and you don't have to kill time wiping grease off your hands....