Suspension TechGeneral discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.
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I don't have any real noticeable vibration. I THINK I feel a little since I put the shackles in, but these should correct any pinion angle error I introduced, just to be on the safe side.
It's not such a big deal, but they were news to me when I started looking at lifting some time back, so I thought I would show a reasonably priced source in case anyone else was needing them. I haven't found them much cheaper than this from any reputable source (but if someone knows of one please share it, lol!)
Pinion angle shouldn't even begin to be a problem unless you introduce 6+ inches of lift. Even then a heavy duty U-Joint should be able to take the abuse (unless contact is being made). Then I would suggest a custom CV driveshaft. You can find some pretty nice 80 degree shafts online.
Nice idea but doesn't hold up geometrically. The problem with pinion angle with normal lifting is the extreme of then angle ITSELF, not the difference between output shaft and pinion angles. With this correction I am doing there is no need for a CV. You are confusing two different pinion angle problems.
You can have exact pinion/output shaft angles, but have them be too high for u-joints. That's the problem you're talking about. In those cases, changing the pinion angle and angling or dropping the transfer case is the solution. Simply adding a lift doesn't change the RELATIVE angles (depending on how you lift) but the ABSOLUTE angles.
The one I have is a MISMATCH between the pinion and output shaft angles. That is, because the shackle angles the axle, there is a change in RELATIVE angle.
__________________ John Griggs -- Kennett Square, PA
2002 Ranger 4x4, SAS'd, with too many other mods...
The one I have is a MISMATCH between the pinion and output shaft angles. That is, because the shackle angles the axle, there is a change in RELATIVE angle.
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Thats true, I forgot about how the shackles change the axle angle itself.
On a semi-related note, have you looked into replacing the entire pack down the road?
Not yet. I'm at the end of my money until well after the holidays. I am thinking about it though!!! It's the best solution, I know. For now, I'm "making do" for a little bit of money.
The University is currently under indictment as a "diploma mill" and I can't at this time issue any degrees unless you pay me enough to make sure my lawyer keeps me out of trouble...how bad do you want it?
First off: the bolts that come with the shims are for if you have add-a-leafs! If you don't -- they're WAY too long.
Those of you who have done spring work know how hard it is to get that center bolt out of the spring pack. The head is ROUND without hex or gnurls to grab. I use a big-*** pair of channel-locks (about 18" long) to hold the bolt head. I had to brace one handle against the brake drum and squeeze really hard to keep the head from moving -- but I got the nut off. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
Anyway, first you chock the front wheels and jack up the back of the vehicle and pull off the rear wheels, and support the chassis on stands pretty high up. I used a hydraulic jack under the diff to lift it. Once the wheels are off and the stands in place lower the jack all the way down.
Now removed the u-bolts that hold the axle to the springs and put them and the top plate aside. Use some humongous c-clamps (I borrowed some) to clamp the leaf spring tight on either side of the bolt, about 4" back from it to either side.
Brace your knee under the leaf behind the axle and lift it up with your knee (easiest way I found) and pull out the lift block. You put it back in using the same method.
Using the channel locks and a nice sized ratched, you can remove that center bolt if you're persistent. I got both mine off but it's WORK.
Next FUBAR: the hole in the shims is too small for the stock bolt, so drill or ream it out to the correct size.
In my case I needed the pinion nose to come back down, so the fat part of the shim goes towards the front of the vehicle. I bolted to shim to the bottom of the leaf spring with the stock bolt. However, it doesn't allow all the threads to engage the nut, as you can see in the first picture.
After you get the nut back on and tightened, you can remove the c-clamps, and reassemble that side. When complete it looks like the second and third pictures and you can see the shim between the lift block and the spring.
Simple, basically. Just the usual stuff to deal with getting rusted bolts WITHOUT HEX OR SOCKET HEADS loose and back on. Glad that's over with. Took me almost 2 hours to do both sides and that's too much.
With a 2" block, the shim, and the traction bars, the stock u-bolts are just long enough. If I add anything else I'll get getting longer u-bolts!
Edit: Oh yeah, forgot to mention. This was a noticeable improvement. The vibration I had, such as it was, came on like a thrumming noise at certain speeds when accelerating, and you could feel it through the floor faintly. That's completely gone now, so it must have been the slight misalignment. Although it wasn't a major deal, this improved the NVH nicely. My truck is noisy enough without adding to it.
__________________ John Griggs -- Kennett Square, PA
2002 Ranger 4x4, SAS'd, with too many other mods...
thank you john for mentioning the vibration and that it cured it, nobody ever believes me when i tell them about that. at least now they hear it from someone who they THINK knows what they are talking about... heh
This was a noticeable improvement. The vibration I had, such as it was, came on like a thrumming noise at certain speeds when accelerating, and you could feel it through the floor faintly. That's completely gone now, so it must have been the slight misalignment.
The ones I bought when I first posted this topic turned out to be garbage. I found they had cracked and they literally fell to pieces when I took them out!
I took my springs apart today and took a leaf out of them, then added that leaf to a less sagged spring set I got from Doc. I'm running 4 leaves plus the overload now. This gave me an addisional inch over where I was and the rear feels like it's in better control now. Stange because I thought it might get "hoppier" back there, but it didn't. I'll post this as a separate topic.
I had ragged out my old rear springs and if you set them eyes-down/arch-up next to Doc's (the ones he gave me when he did the chevy spring conversion) and his were 1/4" to 1/2" taller! So I know mine had sagged if they are shorter WITHOUT tension, lol.
These shims appear to be brittle and don't last.
I think the correction is a good thing though -- but those shims of mine were junk. If you have someone who can do a good job grinding a slope in your blocks, that would do the same thing. That's what I'm going to do now. I'm running without the shims for now.
__________________ John Griggs -- Kennett Square, PA
2002 Ranger 4x4, SAS'd, with too many other mods...
Just ordered some pinion angle shims/wedges
