you call superlift and tell them you have an older kit, and wonder what to do about excessive droop, because you broke a cv axle. You guys might get together on this and take turns so they don;t think something is up---
They will take your addy and send you a free set. Great customer service!!!
Now, that being said, it isn't the length that is important, rather where you drill the top mounting hole is the main factor. Just let the lower arm droop all the way, and jack it back up an inch and a half with a jack, and secure the limit strap tightly to this position. This is how to determine where to drill your top mounting hole, depending on which strap design you choose.
The superlift instructions have you drill a hole 3/4" above an existing one, which, you will fill again with the weld bead once you install the coilover conversion shock tower support gussets. You will then need to drill a new hole.
You can make a set yourself, using tailgate support cables-or even lift straps can be used it you can find them short enough.
The lower link of the strap uses the lower mount of the sway bar link to secure it also. So, unless you use a quick connect the end link must stay bolted in.
Another member, dkchrist , has solved this issue, by making these super sweet disconnects, both for 4" suspension lift, and for stock height guys using a body lift. Maybe he will make em for you guys, I am not sure. Pm him and ask.
Here is a set of stock height links, along with a set of home made limit straps --tailgate cables
here they are installed
here is quick disconnect and home made limit strap joy
Here is the lifted version of end link disconnect goodness! Dig the hot candy blue powdercoat!
Note how the bottom bracket will remain bolted tight, for a good limit strap location.