custom front drive shaft
#1
custom front drive shaft
Here it is, my attempt at a square drive shaft. The first several are the superlift canablized..
^^ Here is the two pieces of square tube for the telescoping needed. Specs on the material: larger tube is 2", 3/16" wall, the smaller being 1-1/2", 1/8" wall
Drive shaft installed and in action:
Annddd after Round 1: trail-1, drive shaft-0
The weld penetrated the material on both side. The breakage occured at the damn weld itself
It did however last about half the length of the trail, which consumed a good 2+ hrs. Just abit too much stress and torque, I suppose. I will keep updated on Round 2 and further..
^^ Here is the two pieces of square tube for the telescoping needed. Specs on the material: larger tube is 2", 3/16" wall, the smaller being 1-1/2", 1/8" wall
Drive shaft installed and in action:
Annddd after Round 1: trail-1, drive shaft-0
The weld penetrated the material on both side. The breakage occured at the damn weld itself
It did however last about half the length of the trail, which consumed a good 2+ hrs. Just abit too much stress and torque, I suppose. I will keep updated on Round 2 and further..
#5
The portion I welded to may indeed be cast steel. And although I didn't heat it before welding, I had the welder (Miller 251 from work, capable of up to 1/2" thick) turned up for 5/16" material. I thought maybe I could get by with the heat. And, as I metioned, the weld itself broke. A good portion of the weld is still on the u-joint end. Not sure what my next step will be; havn't decided for sure. But I'll keep updates.
#7
On round 2 I would make sure to grind down the corners on the square tube to get a nice weld in there. Also cut a groove into the U joint side to penetrate down in there. You could do a root pass, then one above and one below that. Then cut some triangle gussets and run 2 on each side of the driveshaft. Preheat everything before welding.
#8
On round 2 I would make sure to grind down the corners on the square tube to get a nice weld in there. Also cut a groove into the U joint side to penetrate down in there. You could do a root pass, then one above and one below that. Then cut some triangle gussets and run 2 on each side of the driveshaft. Preheat everything before welding.
#11
I just run coils and links so the travel on the driveshaft does not need to be so severe
#12
especially if it will only be spinning at low speeds on the trail
have you not seen all the "professionally made" drive shafts he's had come apart?
#13
Welding with cast requires nickle rod and I believe is done most effectively with a stick welder. My understanding is that you can either preheat or keep the piece from getting too hot - only weld a little bit at a time. Preheat and slow cool is not necessary.
In the pic showing the broken yoke/shaft, it doesn't look like there is much material/weld on the yoke. I don't think it bonded well, something I believe the nickle would solve.
In the pic showing the broken yoke/shaft, it doesn't look like there is much material/weld on the yoke. I don't think it bonded well, something I believe the nickle would solve.
#14
Welding with cast requires nickle rod and I believe is done most effectively with a stick welder. My understanding is that you can either preheat or keep the piece from getting too hot - only weld a little bit at a time. Preheat and slow cool is not necessary.
In the pic showing the broken yoke/shaft, it doesn't look like there is much material/weld on the yoke. I don't think it bonded well, something I believe the nickle would solve.
In the pic showing the broken yoke/shaft, it doesn't look like there is much material/weld on the yoke. I don't think it bonded well, something I believe the nickle would solve.
#15
#19
again another good reason for a linked suspension i am just going to keep bring that back at ya! haha
#20
Heavy wall Square tubeing is not going to break before a round shaft. Then even if the square deforms its still going to act as a giant spline up to a point. but as soon as the splines deform they are toast. I was convinced to used a square tube when I saw my Friends 4500 pound FJ40 sitting on the front square shaft and the shaft was spinning and actually chipped some peices off the rock. They are incredibly strong and simple.
Last edited by redranger4.0; 03-24-2008 at 11:37 AM.
#22
#23
Hey man, I'd be using stick if I were you. Don't use mig on something like that if you want it to hold up... I'd say stick it with E6011 or E7018... You want it to have some give in the ductility, but also you want it strong... You're not gonna get the strength you need out of a MIG wire fed gun. Just my .02
#24
Hey man, I'd be using stick if I were you. Don't use mig on something like that if you want it to hold up... I'd say stick it with E6011 or E7018... You want it to have some give in the ductility, but also you want it strong... You're not gonna get the strength you need out of a MIG wire fed gun. Just my .02