Outer tie rod end goes bad in 6 months
#1
Outer tie rod end goes bad in 6 months
Actually less than that.
I was just out under the truck in the drizzling rain tonight putting one of my old ones on.
This last summer I had one of the original factory ones which was getting loose. Both of the factory ones had torn boots from inept removal at one point. I kept the old ones in the tool box as "just in case" parts.
Well, I've been hearing an intermitting hard popping that I could feel through the floor when driving and it was getting more frequent and I was getting concerned.
I had three friends bounce the truck hard up and down this evening while I lay under it and listened and I could hear it was from the passengers side front suspension. I was bummed because I thought it was the new lower balljoint I just put on, a heavy duty greaseable one.
But when shaking the wheel I could actually SEE the play in the outer tie rod where it joins the spindle. When I took it off, I can actually bounce the ball around inside the socket and it's loose metal-to-metal in there.
These were crappy "Duralast" parts from Autozone. I'll buy some good ones tomorrow. Lesson learned.
The old one is probably good for quite a few more miles, but I'll get another tomorrow anyway, in fact a pair.
I was just out under the truck in the drizzling rain tonight putting one of my old ones on.
This last summer I had one of the original factory ones which was getting loose. Both of the factory ones had torn boots from inept removal at one point. I kept the old ones in the tool box as "just in case" parts.
Well, I've been hearing an intermitting hard popping that I could feel through the floor when driving and it was getting more frequent and I was getting concerned.
I had three friends bounce the truck hard up and down this evening while I lay under it and listened and I could hear it was from the passengers side front suspension. I was bummed because I thought it was the new lower balljoint I just put on, a heavy duty greaseable one.
But when shaking the wheel I could actually SEE the play in the outer tie rod where it joins the spindle. When I took it off, I can actually bounce the ball around inside the socket and it's loose metal-to-metal in there.
These were crappy "Duralast" parts from Autozone. I'll buy some good ones tomorrow. Lesson learned.
The old one is probably good for quite a few more miles, but I'll get another tomorrow anyway, in fact a pair.
#4
#8
Originally Posted by n3elz
I think they're around $20 a pop or so. Don't remember really. I'm going to get good quality ones this time since I run 35's and all. I shouldn't have gone cheap this last batch -- my bad.
#9
#10
#13
#15
#16
Originally Posted by n3elz
I haven't checked mine really...[sigh]...could be more stuff I have to buy just before I remove it all, lol.
Well, on the plus side, I'll have a steering rack (an Explorer one though), and lots of front end parts for sale cheap when I do the swap.
Well, on the plus side, I'll have a steering rack (an Explorer one though), and lots of front end parts for sale cheap when I do the swap.
for the inners you have to have some type of funky tool to go over the joint then you slide this key in over it. or just pull the whole rack and pinion like we did on Bills and spend 4+ hours messing with it. Never again, i think that was the worse thing i have done on these trucks.
#19
Okay put the new tie rod ends in.
The other side I removed was bad also -- just not so extreme. That set of Duralasts I bought were just plain crap. They might be JUST adequate with a stock truck, but not with the 35's and all.
These new greaseable ones are heavier in weight, the body around the ball is thicker, and the shaft is greater in diameter -- overall a much more solid piece. We'll see how they do.
The other side I removed was bad also -- just not so extreme. That set of Duralasts I bought were just plain crap. They might be JUST adequate with a stock truck, but not with the 35's and all.
These new greaseable ones are heavier in weight, the body around the ball is thicker, and the shaft is greater in diameter -- overall a much more solid piece. We'll see how they do.
#20
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Originally Posted by zabeard
for the inners you have to have some type of funky tool to go over the joint then you slide this key in over it. or just pull the whole rack and pinion like we did on Bills and spend 4+ hours messing with it. Never again, i think that was the worse thing i have done on these trucks.
that is the one i have to replace
#21
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