Poor Man's lift?
#1
Poor Man's lift?
A buddy of mine at my school has a 98 Ranger 4x4. He added 235/85/16 Bridestone revo's, put a bigger block in the rear with an AAL and cranked his T-bars up front to level. When I park next to him the rear wheel well sits at least 4.5 inches over mine and the front is about 5.5 inches.
This is a dumb question I know, but is this possible to do safely for an extended period of time? I don't get the whole AAL thing with the bigger block. Wouldn't that just stress the other leaves more? And he had it all alligned after his tbars were cranked but will this hurt the front? If it is all good I'm going to probably jump on this because it cost him 110 bucks total. (not including tires)
The reason I'm asking is because my hours just got cut after my "promotion." So now I'm only pulling in about 80-100 bucks a week which means no chance of a true suspension lift.
Any input would be great.
This is a dumb question I know, but is this possible to do safely for an extended period of time? I don't get the whole AAL thing with the bigger block. Wouldn't that just stress the other leaves more? And he had it all alligned after his tbars were cranked but will this hurt the front? If it is all good I'm going to probably jump on this because it cost him 110 bucks total. (not including tires)
The reason I'm asking is because my hours just got cut after my "promotion." So now I'm only pulling in about 80-100 bucks a week which means no chance of a true suspension lift.
Any input would be great.
#2
It's not the back that's an issue. It's the constant high angle of the front axle shafts that I'd be more concerned with. That's why doing it is not common. Drive it in 4WD a lot like that and you'll toast the axle joints.
Bigger blocks can be countered to some extend with traction bars which save a lot of stress on the leaves and the drivetrain.
Bigger blocks can be countered to some extend with traction bars which save a lot of stress on the leaves and the drivetrain.
#6
#7
I should probably add that the main reason I'm thinking of doing this is to try to be able to fit in 33's. (285/75/16) to be exact. If all this is a no go I'll probably just got 265/75/16...
And please don't say body lift.... I don't want the dealership to get all pissy about doing something like that nor do I want the day of agony.
And please don't say body lift.... I don't want the dealership to get all pissy about doing something like that nor do I want the day of agony.
#8
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
I should probably add that the main reason I'm thinking of doing this is to try to be able to fit in 33's. (285/75/16) to be exact. If all this is a no go I'll probably just got 265/75/16...
And please don't say body lift.... I don't want the dealership to get all pissy about doing something like that nor do I want the day of agony.
And please don't say body lift.... I don't want the dealership to get all pissy about doing something like that nor do I want the day of agony.
body lift is nothgin compared to a suspension lift... lol u cant even compare them with warranty stuff. the suspension lift voids far more im sure.
#9
#10
#11
Originally Posted by ibanez270dx
just save your money. Its worth it to get it right the first time.
I've talked to Ford Corp. about lifts a LONG time ago when I was contemplating my lift on my last truck, and although the dealers will tell you that body lifts will not void as much as suspension (keeping the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act of 1975 into account as well), it's completely the opposite.
#13
Why don't you just get really wide tires with an aggressive tread? I've seen one on cardomain that looks freakn awesome... Its got BFG M/Ts that are 31x12.50x15R. All he has is the torsion crank.... and here it is!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090552
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090552
#14
As said above leaving the T-bars cranked up all the time is bad. A little bit of crank is ok full crank is bad.
If you want some extra lift a body lift is a good way to go. $150 for the bl plus a little bit more if you get the gap gaurds and if you have a stick shift you need the shift extender.
If you want some extra lift a body lift is a good way to go. $150 for the bl plus a little bit more if you get the gap gaurds and if you have a stick shift you need the shift extender.
#16
sure a body lift is cool at first... but then you'll take your truck offroading... eeeshh... I know from experience in my old truck that its pretty crappy... even though I shouldn't have been doing what I was doing... hehe. I broke a lot of stuff that trip.
...and if you do decide to go with a BL, don't get a 3inch. Get just enough to clear the tires. 1 or 2 inch kits are available too.
...and if you do decide to go with a BL, don't get a 3inch. Get just enough to clear the tires. 1 or 2 inch kits are available too.
#20
#21
#22
Originally Posted by ibanez270dx
sure a body lift is cool at first... but then you'll take your truck offroading... eeeshh... I know from experience in my old truck that its pretty crappy... even though I shouldn't have been doing what I was doing... hehe. I broke a lot of stuff that trip.
...and if you do decide to go with a BL, don't get a 3inch. Get just enough to clear the tires. 1 or 2 inch kits are available too.
...and if you do decide to go with a BL, don't get a 3inch. Get just enough to clear the tires. 1 or 2 inch kits are available too.
lol crazy fool
#24
#25
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
body lift..6 hours easy > getto way of lifting.....
edit: well the first one if you consider a learning curve it would have taken less time, the 2nd was also installing vent tube extensions, gap guards, t-bar crank and AAL. 6 hours provided everything goes absolutly perfect.