I am finally going to cranks my t-bars to level my truck out. I don't want the nose sticking higher than the rear. I think that looks retarded. Some tech's at the ford dealership where I work told me what to do. But I was wondering if you guys have any helpful tips you can suggest. Just to help from getting my self into some sort of a bind. Also, maybe others can use this forum.

 

Much info can be found on this thread

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ar+conflicting

 

i just sprayed those bolts up real good with WD-40, jacked up the front of the truck and put 4 turns on each side, im happy with where mine is, I would say go a couple turns at a time and make sure you go equal amounts on each side, just do it little by little till it where you want it to be

 

Yeah you can either jack the truck up or leave it on the ground but spray them with wd 40 like he said and you should be good.

 

Seriously man, it's two bolts, one for the right and one for the left. There are no tips, it's more simple than changing a flat. Just measure when you are done so you can make sure you are level.

 

I dont know about loosening the bolts on the upper control arms I have never heard of anyone doing that I think most people dont and they are fine.

 

exactly if that was the case 20k miles ago it would have went out...i have lowered my truck cranking them bolts and lifted my truck cranking just the t-bar bolts......no balljoint problems here..........

 

step 1 measure from highest point of fender to ground, write it down.
step 2 lay under the truck, find the right socket, turn the screws til your arms get tired.
step 3 remeasure. answer 1 of the 2.
step 3a not even. repeat step 2.
step 3b even. drive around block.
step 4 remeasure.
step 5 if over 1-1.5 alignment.

optional take before and after pictures.

in all honestly some say to lift it up by the IFS some say dont. if you cant turn it with it not on the ground jack it up by the center. i was just fine, got eaten by mosquitos in that time period.

 

thats alot of assumption and accusation there, 04 EDGE.

the factory control arm bushings are rubber fused to steel inner and outer sleeves. when the thru bolts are tightened the inner sleeve is in a fixed position, not allowed to rotate with suspension articulation. the rubber flexes and allows suspension movement. changin the ride height w/o loosening the bolts at the control arm pickup points will preload the bushings. the rubber will always be in tension. while this may effect the ride and compliance of the front end, you will NOT pull a balljoint out of socket by preloading the control arm bushings.


oh, and the words you are lookin for are "neutral" and "position"

 

I have had my torsion bars cranked for over a year. My GF's dad is a mechanic and bc of your post we just checked mine and no problems here we DO know what were talking about and looking for were not idiots.

 

Just 1 question why would ford put the torsion bars on if they werent meant to be adjusted?

 

We just took off the front wheels ( I was doing more learning than helping haha) but he checked the top rubber bushings to see if they were mashed or cockeyed as in the angle of them? From what he could see there was no premature wear, and I would think it would be there after a year or so.

 

Iv done it to my truck and got about 2 inches out of it and for the money you don't have to spend it's great!

 

I've put 20k on 6 turns and havent checked for wear, but havent noticed anything.

 

Here we go AGAIN...... Mark once again, as Bob has checked the FORD SERVICE manual about Torsion bar adjustment when you first started preaching this

once again you are the only person EVER that has said this... and it still boggles my mind that over probly oh 2000 people easy on over 4 ranger forums, have done it the FORD recommended way and there is no problems besides Early spring fatigue because there is more of a torsion load which is common with a larger torsion adjustment... so Class 1 bars are installed after owner notices failer, which they will last longer then the other bars giving the owner more time before needed to buy another set...

And for the people that want to know what the class 1 bar part #'s are here they are per Bob already finding them out for everyone

And hopefully this won’t result in a huge fight with name calling and badgering because really it’s not needed...

Really Mark not trying to be a huge *** but I, 100% side with Ford on this one because they built the truck and designed it….

 

Mark is the reason I started the "conflicting steps found" thread....I cranked mine by what Bob said, by the Ford recommendations...no problem.

 

no Mark its not that we havent changed its just i will stick to the Ford service manual on adjusting the Torsion bars. honistly if you can show me a printed manual on adjusting Ford ranger Torsion bars that states your way i will say i am 100% wrong and admit failer.

idk if your truck had problems with the ball joints who knows. as an oposite example to yours Bill's truck has had the Torsion bars maxed since almost day 1 and used the ford service manual way of adjusting them and had i beleave over 50k on his truck before it needed ball joints and only one was bad and for part of its life its been slinging around 33" then 35" tires which i would expect the ball joints to fail faster with lugging around those tires.

like i sayed before i am not arguing mad or in different just stating what Ford Service manual says how to properly adjust the torsion bars...