whats better to lift? i know the ttb lifts are cheaper but i wanted to know if i used the 8" superlift i heard that its hard to align is that true? also the only lift i can find for the ifl is the superlift 4" i know rcd makes a bigger lift but thats out of my budget. i already plan to get the 3" body but need more info on suspension. let me know your opinions on which would be the better truck to lift.

 

i prefer the ttb, but damn 8" and you already have a 3" body lift? what size tires you looking to run? you might wanna sas it for that kind of size

 

Yeah that would be huge. A 6" and BL is perfect for 35s.

 

Technically a TTB is a form of IFS. But I agree that the TTB is easier to lift as it's closer to a solid axle set up. It's also stronger and easier to align.

 

Are you sure? I've never heard that before.

Ah just did some research and it is considered a form of IFS. Learn something new every day.

 

nah im not gonna do the 8" i just heard stories about it bieng hard to align. the only reason that im leaning for the ifl 98 to 2000 is because of the 4 door factor. what would the 4" sus and 3" body look like on a 98? would the 96 looks substantially different in height with a 6" and a 3" body? im new so i dont know the stock height of either years

 

they would look the same with the same amount of lift, there is no difference in cabs or beds, i have a three inch body and im putting a 6" suspension lift that i have sitting here on and im gonna have 35" tires on it, so add in the tire lift too and its gonna be pretty decent size for how skinny the truck is.

 

I think a 6" lift alone would be able to clear 35s. I've got a 4" lift and 33s fit nicely so an extra 2" lift would be able to clear 2" taller tires. Add a body lift and the tires could possibly even go bigger. But then regearing and driveline stress and all that becomes a bigger issue.

 

With the BL you'll never have to worry about rubbing or anything.

 

on a ttb truck in the years you are looking at if u were to run a 6" susp and 3" body u could easily clear 38's, been there done that, however i believe they look best with a set of 36's under it at that height, and thats also about the max that those axles can handle

 

i see uve decided final on my words of wisdom lol

 

Really if you want a new smooth ride then you're going to want to get the IFS. Other wise if you want to get something thats more reliable then you'll want the TTB. The IFS has problems with after lifting the axles and CV's have trouble. Not to mention you'd need to get the after market drive shaft to compensate for the new angle. I love my TTB suspension only thing I wish was that it rode a little smoother.

 

oh yea, the lift install is on hold until i get back from indiana now.

 

Yes a TTB is a form of IFS because each side of the TTB acts independently of each other. On a solid axle truck, when the passanger side goes up, the driver side goes down. On an IFS (TTB & SLA trucks), the passanger side can go up and the driver side stay the same.

The TTB suspension is MUCH better for off road and lifting. The SLA ('98+ Rangers) only have bolt on lifts of up to 6" (RCD) while the TTB Rangers ('84-'97) you can go from 2" up to 8".

The 8" kit isn't hard to align as long as you buy the COMPLETE kit and you have a modified Superlift Superunner steering setup. The modified part is the center drag link has to be modifed to lower the left and right drag link mounting position and then it has to be strengthened.


For the rear, I recommend using the Skyjacker 6" lifted leafs (4" of spring lift and the 2" factory blocks). The part number on the springs is FR36. Anything else, espically blocks, will give you trouble with that much lift.


Make sure you regear with that large of tire. Any upsize in tire warrants a regear, espically a 35+. If you have a 4.0 and want to run 38's, expect to run a 5.13 gear (you MUST do front and rear gears).

 

Ya agreed. My TTB is a pretty rough ride as well. Although that may be because I've got the Superlift springs and Pro Comp shocks. Here's a question to people who have run multiple set ups. Is it the Superlift springs or the Pro Comp shocks that are causing my extremely rigid ride? Seriously I can feel the painted lines on the road when I go over them.

 

how is all your bushings in the front end/ sway bar, axle pivot bushings, rear leaf/shackle bushings?

i had a 2002 4x4 ranger and a 2000 ranger a few years back both brand new and i dont think they rode any better then my beat up 94, only thing wrong with the 94 is the 2pc driveshaft with the worn out rubber carrier

 

I did a quick bushing inspection and they looked to be in surprisingly good shape. The guy I bought the truck from took really good care of it and said the shocks were nearly new when I bought it 6 months ago.

 

it is the Superlift springs. They are super stiff.

I am going to be putting in Skyjacker XJ 5.5" springs when I swap in the Dana 35 in the BII. They will give you the same lift and have a spring rate of around 250# vs. the Superlifts at around 500 #.

 

I've definitely been looking into the Skyjacker soft ride leaves for the rear since it's just lift blocks right now. Is it possible just to swap out the coil springs up front for 4" Skyjacker coils and keep the lift the same or are the coils a different size in the end?

 

you can only use the 8" with the 4.0 right? also if i gought the superlift 8" from 4 wheel parts is that a complete kit? and where do i get a modified steering set up? do i need to custom it or do they sell it?

 

Yes you can use the Skyjacker 4" coils on the Superlift brackets. Since you have a 4.0 extended cab, I recommend using the Skyjacker 6" springs on the 4" brackets. Your truck will be MUCH easier to align. I did that on my '97.

If you stick with the 4" lift, get the FR34 Skyjacker leafs. That will allow you to remove the blocks and level the truck. If you are going to go with the 6" coils, then get the FR36 Skyjacker leafs; again that will allow you to remove the blocks and still have a level truck.


The 8" kit is a Skyjacker kit, not Superlift. Yes, if you buy the kit from a store (Summit, Jegs, or 4 Wheels Parts)(I don't recommend 4 Wheel Parts) it is a complete kit.

The Superlift Superunner steering can be bought through the stores as well. It is roughly $475 for the kit. You then will have to modify it. It is 100% worth the money you will spend on it.

 

thanks guys. i made up my mind im going with the 97 with a 6" superlift and 3 inch body. thanks for the big help now one more thing...anybody got pics of what this might look like with this set up?

 

Click on the photobucket link in my signature, then when it loads go to Ranger Exterior.

I will post pictures of it when I get off the ****ter.


I don't recommend the Superlift because the springs are super stiff. If you have the budget for it, go with the Skyjacker Class II lift. The Skyjacker Class II lift has much stronger brackets, softer/better coils, and comes with extended radius arms. You can also get lifted leafs as an option cheaper with the purchase of a complete kit.

Remember, you will also need a drop pitman arm, 4 shocks, and longer brake lines. I recommend the Skyjacker Hydro shocks. When you get brake lines, get the braided stainless lines; they are a far supperior brake line compared to the rubber lines.

 

How tall are you looking to go? My buddy Larry runs the 6" Skyjacker with a 3" BL and runs 36's, because he kept blowing up shafts with 38's. 8" IMO is WAY too much suspension for the Ranger.


Also, while the TTB is IFS, it's not a true IFS. It's a bastardized IFS/SFA setup

Here's a picture of his truck next to mine

 

If he has fender flares, then 36's will be too much. On my '97 with flares, 35's would rub on the lower rear part of the flare.


The TTB is a true IFS. IFS is where each side of the suspension can act independently of each other; what one side does, the other doenst have to do the opposite. There is no cross bread front suspension. You either have a solid axle/solid beam or IFS.