Suspension TechGeneral discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.
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removing a rack and pinion unit from a torsion bar suspension
Removing a rack and pinion unit from a torsion bar suspension is a nightmare.
I think everything is tougher to repair on a T-bar suspension but the rack and pinion is the worst because it's enclosed in a cage.
I looked at the rack on my 2004 Ranger with the coil spring suspension and it's right out in the open. It looks like it would be a breeze to remove.
Well, I learned the hard way how to remove one of these b*tches maybe someone could tell me an easier way to install one.
Here's some pics if anyone ever wanted to see what the inside of a rack looks like.
The cage that this thing was stuck in.
Last edited by BlackRanger04; 10-25-2010 at 09:27 PM.
Remove the outer tie rods,(optional) remove the inner tie rods, remove the sway bar, undo the cooler, you unbolt it, undo the lines, undo the steering shaft from the pinion, . take the rack and rotate it so the pinion is pointed at you and you can see threw the bolt holes, move it towards the passanger side it will drop down in that hole. then the driver side of it will be out of the hole in the c-member, then you can just pull it out..
dont forget to replace the nylon o-rings on the lines. you can place them in a glass of hot tap water and it will soften them up some
Edit: just realized it did the removal just reverse that lol
Last edited by Redneckstone; 10-25-2010 at 09:22 PM.
Remove the outer tie rods, remove the sway bar, you unbolt it, undo the lines/cooler, undo the steering shaft from the pinion, (optional) remove the inner tie rods before unbolting. take the rack and rotate it so the pinion is pointed at you and you can see threw the bolt holes, move it towards the passanger side it will drop down in that hole. then the driver side of it will be out of the hole in the c-member, then you can just pull it out..
dont forget to replace the nylon o-rings on the lines. you can place them in a glass of hot tap water and it will soften them up some
What in the hell did I do? ... as in how did I bust the housing up like that? I actually didn't do the damage, the guy's son that I bought it from hit a telephone pole. He ripped the whole wheel off with the rotor and brake caliped. The spindle was ripped off and the brake caliper housing was broke in 2 and the force of the outer tie rod end busted the rack all to pieces. I truly believe the airbag saved his life.
I posted a question about how to remove one a couple of days ago and Trent said he would give me some instructions, but he never did.(I guess he got busy with something else)
If I knew how to remove the inner tie rods it would have fell right out.(Can you tell me how to do this? I heard you need a special tool)
Why are you saying that unbolting the steering shaft from the pinion is optional?
How would you get the thing out without unbolting it from the steering shaft.
Last edited by BlackRanger04; 10-25-2010 at 09:36 PM.
ya how in hell did you bust it. when you flip it up and slide it over then out you honestly do not need to remove the inner tie rods it does help but its not needed at all i have done it with out and with.
yes there is a special tool heck i think even harbor freight sells them but I have heard if you leave the rack bolted it and turn the wheel all the way you can get a wrench on the inner tie rod. i personally have never tried i have always borrowed the tool from Justin he has one.
ya how in hell did you bust it. when you flip it up and slide it over then out you honestly do not need to remove the inner tie rods it does help but its not needed at all i have done it with out and with.
yes there is a special tool heck i think even harbor freight sells them but I have heard if you leave the rack bolted it and turn the wheel all the way you can get a wrench on the inner tie rod. i personally have never tried i have always borrowed the tool from Justin he has one.
Ok, I got ya ... I was gonna say, I know you have remove the steering shaft ...lol
I only would have needed to remove one of the inner tie rods to get it out easier.
When you reinstall the inner tie rod, is there a torque spec on it?
What nylon rings are you refering to and where would I get new nylon rings?
Last edited by BlackRanger04; 10-25-2010 at 09:59 PM.
If I can ever stay in the office longer than 10 minutes I can get you all the torque specs. Its on my work computer and I had to go to court all day today. I'll hopefully have it in the morning though.
on the low and high line that goes into the rack there is nylon seals that you have to slide over the threads when you order a new rack it should come with them and it also comes with new inner tie rods. try installing it with the tie rods on first being it has the nice clamps if you can get it in you will save those you HAVE to rotate the whole rack 90deg to install it its the only way to get it to drop into that hole in the passenger side of the c-member
If I can ever stay in the office longer than 10 minutes I can get you all the torque specs. Its on my work computer and I had to go to court all day today. I'll hopefully have it in the morning though.
Hey Trent,
I hope you were in court all day because of jury duty
Thanks for all the documents. This is going to help out a lot.
I just have a few more questions:
1. Will I be using MERCON Auto trans fluid for the power steering fluid?
2. Can you tell us why they want you to remove the front stabilizer bar?
Lines 10,11 and 12 explain how how to remove the front stabilizer bar.
3.Can I rent the inner tie-rod socket tool (211-D029) at a parts store?
Last edited by BlackRanger04; 10-26-2010 at 05:35 PM.
Yeah, I had to remove the sway bar. I can't believe Ford designed a set up like that and even after removing the stabilizer bar it was still a absolute b*tch to install.
I'll gladly pay someone $400 to install another rack and pinion unit on a torsion bar suspension if it ever needs to be done again.
removing a rack and pinion unit from a torsion bar suspension
