14 bolt by far is stronger than a 60. the 14 bolt has a 3 pinion bearing support and a 6 bolt bearing plate the 60 only two bearings and no bearing plate, the 14 bolt has a 10.5'' ring gear the 60 is a 9.5'', the 14 bolt has 30 spline 1 9/16'' axles, they taper to 1 7/16'' the 60 will be 30 spline 1 3/8''. just a side note the only rear 60 with 35 spline axles is a GM box van, very hard to find, but if you can jump on it. the 14 bolt use's a two piece carrier witch is stronger than a standard carrier witch is a one piece. setting up gears is alot easier on the 14 bolt because there's two adjustable sleeves or collers on the side to set the backlash.

I have never personally seen a ring and pinion broken in a 10.5 as it is a solid rear axle and was design as a replacement for the even more tank like 12 inch eaton/rockwell that GM had been using in HD P/U's until 73. I have heard that when you finally push a 10.5 too far the carrier bearing saddles tend to fail but you are talking about a extra overload. 10.5 has a designed input torque rating at yoke of about 2200 ft lbs and fails around 5000 ft lbs. I would rate a 9.5 14 bolt and D60 in same general league and would place a D70 as a closer match to a 10.5 (D70 as strong and maybe a tiny bit stronger)

 

Post a parts list, nothing I hate more then people who "dont pop their hoods"
Very good info here. a stock to stock axle a dana 60 has no rights to even be in the same class as the big 10.5" ring gear and larger axles. The 14bolt, D70 and D80 are all the big boys as far as "production LT" axles go.

 

ok I got a good deal on a newer d30 with chromo shafts... That should be good up to 42-44" tires right??

 

Uh I've heard up to 35" lol

 

Short answer no, for long answer:

HP D30 unlocked stock shafts (297 joints)
35s OK with some breakage if you spare the skinny pedal
33s Good if you are liberal with the skinny pedal, may still break it so spare shafts are a good thing to carry


HP D30 Locked stock shafts (297 joints)
33s good if you spare the skinny
31s if you beat your junk

With alloy shafts the weak spot moves from the ears on the shafts to the carrier and gears. This is a much harder trail fix. That why I did not bump up the tire size with the alloy shafts. It just gets more expensive and harder to trail fix. There is some benefit with alloy shafts for reliability but not much because instead of shafts you are now breaking gears and carriers.


HP D30 unlocked alloy shafts (297 joints)
35s are OK if you spare the skinny pedal. Less shaft breakage
33s are OK if you are liberal with the skinny pedal... maybe still some breakage


HP D30 Locked alloy shafts (297 joints)
35s are OK if you spare the skinny. Some breakage still expected
33s if you beat your junk. Some breakage still expected


Rocks vs Mud. Running in rocks will tend to break stuff vs running in a loose sloppy mud or sand. Take 2 inches off the max tire size if you are running in Rocks or Rock piles.

About beating your junk…. If you are trying to break something it is pretty easy to do…in a moment of insanity brought on by too much testosterone, I ripped teeth off a D44 R&P and put holes in the diff cover as the teeth tried to leave the diff housing.

(Who knew that would happen if I try to do wheelies with a V8 CJ5, it only had 31’s… OK 31x13.50 on 12-inch rims aired down to 5 PSI…OK it was a hot sticky kind of day where the pavement was oozing black tar all day this was in the evening as it began to cool down. The pavement was literally sticky like a cheap movie theater floor… I did do one hell of a wheelie though. For a little bit.)

Anyway I got what I deserved for that amount of stupidity with the skinny pedal. If you are trying to break something you will normally find a way to do it.

 

d30 will work great.

 

Ah I can't wait for the breakage thread

 

It's up to you, but personally I would go bigger.

 

Cory, do it right man... Seriously... D44 if you wanna run 35's and bigger and wheel it. It's all in the proof dude.

 

are you gonna be building this with him?

 

Nah. Not my thing anymore... Had enough fun on that truck for me. lol

 

I was kidding... Actually I want to do toyota 8" with bob longfield shafts and all the goodies. It will be as strong as a D60 but have lifetime warranty shafts, smaller pumpkin which is mroe ground clearance and is lighter.

 

If it's the 30 splines the axle shafts will be as strong as a D-60, however the R&P will still be no stronger than stock, if you beef up one thing the next weakest link is going to fail, I would still suggest going with a D-44 front. That way you'll actually be able to wheel your truck.

 

That is a chore in itself, as from what i have seen, all yota diffs are passenger side drop.

 

WOW. I totally anialated 2 of those on 35's...the stronger 1 piece shaft ones too!

 

Yea...umm.....no yoda in the front. they be good axles...but....lot of work to make it work. ok...maybe not alot of work...but alot of parts and modification of parts. have fun.

 

Ranger engine and trans combo broke that.

 

but i'm having it custom made... Custom boddy longs and axle based off 8". Drop can be driver or passenger.

 

Tire got bound up in the rocks, normal wheeling, specially in rocks.

 

Cory, just run a D44. Cheaper and easier than running a toyota axle or having one made to work with your truck. Just do it right.

 

I am getting the axle stuff for cheap... I can't get the d44 stuff cheap.

 

b.s. have fun.

What...like have a custom housing made up for ya using a yoda center chunk.....ds shaft on ps, ps shaft on ds? closed knuckle?


Can't get D44 stuff cheap? are you on drugs? seriously. there's SOOO many parts shared all across the different truck brands. dirte cheap parts at many many yards...easily findable too. find a 250 front end...have it narrowed since it sounds like your going to keep it 'midsize'/compact. OR just buy my Waggy D44 from me...i ain't gonna be runnin' it.

 

You think custom stuff is cheap?

If you don't have money, you shouldn't be attempting a SAS. End of the story right there.