torsion key problems
#1
torsion key problems
About 6 or 8 months ago I put on a set of torsion keys on my front end so I could crank them a little more. I only gained only about 2 to 2.5 inches but they are not cranked all the way. I can't go anymore without a cam kit or something so I can align it. But anyways, recently like within the last two weeks or so, I have noticed that my front end makes a squeeky/whiny sound. Its only noticable at low speeds because of the engine and road noise. I believe its possibley my cv axels or something? Im thinking they are on too much of an angle or something but I don't understand how only 2 inches caused this. Does anyone have an idea what this could be or how I could fix it? I really dont wanna have to swap them back out.
#2
#4
Yeah I was dreading the bad news but I had a feeling it was coming. This pisses me off. I cant afford a lift haha and I really dont like the stock look. Its just too low for me. If I take them off I will have to take off the add-a-leaf too cause I really don't want the "raked" look either lol.
#5
If I were to lift it which one would you recommend between the superlift and the rcd? A friend of mine told me to go with rcd but it is kinda spendy.
And I recently found out that here in Utah you are only allowed to have suspension lift or body lift but not both. And the limit on body lift is 2" haha gay.
And I recently found out that here in Utah you are only allowed to have suspension lift or body lift but not both. And the limit on body lift is 2" haha gay.
Last edited by edge186; 08-26-2008 at 02:11 AM.
#6
If you do a search....you'll find all your reasons NOT to put those torsion key lifts on rangers. Ball joints, cv shafts, tie rod ends. Extreme bindage happens with those 'lifts'. Sure...they do good on chevy's...but not rangers.
If you've got higher miles, your bars are probably saggy like crap too. Mine were and i upgraded to #1 bars. Take them torison key 'lifts' out.
ALOT will say superlift. ALOT will say rcd. we had a huge thread that like turned into a fight between the two. lol.
imo....rcd w/ 750lb coils, and shorter shackles than what come in the kit. The kit is better looking(crossmembers, torsion bar elimination), the kit rides better imo(coil-over conversion), and yes it is kinda spendy.
If you've got higher miles, your bars are probably saggy like crap too. Mine were and i upgraded to #1 bars. Take them torison key 'lifts' out.
ALOT will say superlift. ALOT will say rcd. we had a huge thread that like turned into a fight between the two. lol.
imo....rcd w/ 750lb coils, and shorter shackles than what come in the kit. The kit is better looking(crossmembers, torsion bar elimination), the kit rides better imo(coil-over conversion), and yes it is kinda spendy.
#8
If you want the overall "best" lift kit get the RCD, if you want the best "deal" get the superlift. do a quick search though for more info. i did superlift cause: #1 my brakes are bigger and I didnt want to deal with switching them, and #2 I didnt want to weld anything (shock brackets)
#9
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no because your not going past the point which problems start occurring. the keys make it so you can load up the bars more than you can with the normal adjuster bolt.
If you want the overall "best" lift kit get the RCD, if you want the best "deal" get the superlift. do a quick search though for more info. i did superlift cause: #1 my brakes are bigger and I didnt want to deal with switching them, and #2 I didnt want to weld anything (shock brackets)
If you want the overall "best" lift kit get the RCD, if you want the best "deal" get the superlift. do a quick search though for more info. i did superlift cause: #1 my brakes are bigger and I didnt want to deal with switching them, and #2 I didnt want to weld anything (shock brackets)
#15
I know but I'd prefer a suspension lift over body.
I guess Ill just ride stock for a couple years until I can afford one. I've got a couple loans holding me back haha. And then there is college. So after those two things, I can put some aside for the lift.
Had I been a member of this forum when I bought the keys then I probably would have done something different but I was just going on my own knowledge then.
Mine are #1 bars but its an 04 with 40,000 miles and even with them cranked the front end still sags.
I guess Ill just ride stock for a couple years until I can afford one. I've got a couple loans holding me back haha. And then there is college. So after those two things, I can put some aside for the lift.
If you do a search....you'll find all your reasons NOT to put those torsion key lifts on rangers. Ball joints, cv shafts, tie rod ends. Extreme bindage happens with those 'lifts'. Sure...they do good on chevy's...but not rangers.
If you've got higher miles, your bars are probably saggy like crap too. Mine were and i upgraded to #1 bars. Take them torison key 'lifts' out.
If you've got higher miles, your bars are probably saggy like crap too. Mine were and i upgraded to #1 bars. Take them torison key 'lifts' out.
Mine are #1 bars but its an 04 with 40,000 miles and even with them cranked the front end still sags.
Last edited by edge186; 08-26-2008 at 12:00 PM.
#20
#21
well thanks for the help here. I wish I'd have been an r-f member when i decided to do the torsion keys cause I didn't know anything about them.
I'll go swap them back out on my next day off. I had someone put them on for me but I plan on changing them back myself so we'll see how it goes.
By the way, I know I have #1 torsion bars but would it help to buy a new set or would that just be a waste? If so, what do they run per set from the dealer?
I'll go swap them back out on my next day off. I had someone put them on for me but I plan on changing them back myself so we'll see how it goes.
By the way, I know I have #1 torsion bars but would it help to buy a new set or would that just be a waste? If so, what do they run per set from the dealer?
#22
You have installed an AAL....there's your problem. That's why it's so rear tall...that 1.5" extra youve added. #1 bars cranked(or really any bar) and stock rear will net a damn near level ride height. Hell...my maxed out 75k Bbars was damn near level when using a stock rear 2.5" block.
Lift it. Take those 'lift' keys out. They do nothing for rangers.
lifting a 2wd is whack, imo.
Lift it. Take those 'lift' keys out. They do nothing for rangers.
lifting a 2wd is whack, imo.
#25
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dude DON'T mess up your new truck. If you don't do it for you, then do it for me. You have a nice thing going... just wait until you can afford the right lift.... that is why I am still stock and will be for a while....but I am in college so....
But I am sure you will have a problem, so just don't even go there.
But I am sure you will have a problem, so just don't even go there.