Sway bar rubbing coil
#1
Sway bar rubbing coil
97 2wd i beam front end.
Sway bar on drivers side has about an inch and a half clearance from the coil itself. passenger side rubs. found out that THIS is why my truck has been squeeking.
i have two plans but on requies info.
1. i remove the bar mount. redrill holes and remount it inch an a half away.
or
2. I remove the sway bar entirely.
The info i need is on what effects the sway bar has on my front suspension. and what effects it would have if i removed it.
Sway bar on drivers side has about an inch and a half clearance from the coil itself. passenger side rubs. found out that THIS is why my truck has been squeeking.
i have two plans but on requies info.
1. i remove the bar mount. redrill holes and remount it inch an a half away.
or
2. I remove the sway bar entirely.
The info i need is on what effects the sway bar has on my front suspension. and what effects it would have if i removed it.
#3
#4
Originally Posted by Hellion
They both are. there like the extentions for my lift.
also is it normal for coils to be kinda arched? there 5.5 inch lift coils but they both arch a lil like ( ) that. not as aextreme. but you get what i mean.
also is it normal for coils to be kinda arched? there 5.5 inch lift coils but they both arch a lil like ( ) that. not as aextreme. but you get what i mean.
what size drop brackets do you have in there? its the springs are bowing outward, sounds as f the drop brackets are too short.
#5
check to make sure its not bent or the frame rail brackets arent broken because it shouldnt be off by that much...
and id highly advise not to take it off if you drive in the highway, when i broke an end link and didnt know my truck would rock and shake in turns at highway speeds which wasn't good
and id highly advise not to take it off if you drive in the highway, when i broke an end link and didnt know my truck would rock and shake in turns at highway speeds which wasn't good
#6
ya. the drop down brackets are the ones that come with the kit. and no im not going to take it off if it does all that.
and i just got a better look at it and it seems that the drivers side coil is fine. but the passenger side is....kinda bowed forward.
but when i looked at it, it seems that theres some slop in the control arm where it mounts on the crossmember. but its hella hard to tighten it.
i may be wrong but im kinda lost here honestly.
and i just got a better look at it and it seems that the drivers side coil is fine. but the passenger side is....kinda bowed forward.
but when i looked at it, it seems that theres some slop in the control arm where it mounts on the crossmember. but its hella hard to tighten it.
i may be wrong but im kinda lost here honestly.
#8
Ya i just took em ill upload them now
Heres the good side (PS: pay no attention to the brake line. my mount snapped and i have to make a new one to clear it from the coil.)
Profile of the bad side.
Heres the problem.
And this is the part where i think the problem might be coming from
Heres the good side (PS: pay no attention to the brake line. my mount snapped and i have to make a new one to clear it from the coil.)
Profile of the bad side.
Heres the problem.
And this is the part where i think the problem might be coming from
Last edited by Hellion; 12-02-2007 at 10:06 PM.
#10
Its tough to tell from the photo because its taken from the from, but you mention its bowing out forward...
The radius arm bushing seems to be compressed more at the bottom than the top, and if the coil is bowing forward then your radius arms arent dropped enough. Can you measure the distance from the original bolt-hole to a the new bolthole? ie: as follows:
except, to the upper-forward bolt hole thats outta sight.
if youre running 5.5" lift springs, those ought to be pretty close to 5.5" apart, otherwise you are forcing your radius arms to be angled down under static pressure, ie, when not flexing. that will bring your beams to an angle, leading your coils to bow forward.
The radius arm bushing seems to be compressed more at the bottom than the top, and if the coil is bowing forward then your radius arms arent dropped enough. Can you measure the distance from the original bolt-hole to a the new bolthole? ie: as follows:
except, to the upper-forward bolt hole thats outta sight.
if youre running 5.5" lift springs, those ought to be pretty close to 5.5" apart, otherwise you are forcing your radius arms to be angled down under static pressure, ie, when not flexing. that will bring your beams to an angle, leading your coils to bow forward.
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