Suspension lift
#1
#2
Yeah...Go to e-bay and put "4"Lift Spindles For Ford Ranger" in the search box...You can get MaxxTrac spindles for less than $400 bucks. And those spindles are as good as or better than any spindle on the market. But bear in mind...if you are going to use any kind of spindle lift, the setback on your wheels becomes a critical factor. Setback can be no more than 3.75"...Stock ford wheels have a 4.25" set back if I remember correctly. So you can't use stock wheels. The less the setback the farther the center line of the tire is moved out from the center line of the truck, itself. This adds overall front tire track width. Example: If you had wheels with a 4.25" setback and changed to wheels that have a 3.75" setback, the overall track width of your truck would increase by 1"...1/2" on each side... So if you're going to do any kind of suspension lift you're going to have to buy new wheels. Before I did that I think I would put in new Code 1 torsion bars and crank 'em for all they are worth. That alone should give you a good 2-2 1/2 or maybe even 3" of extra lift.
Just a side note: I always tell people...Please understand I am just tellin' you what I've learned and any opinion is my own...So build your truck the way you want it...don't let yourself be bullied into doing otherwise.
I'm running 31x10.50x15's on stock rims and the original "F" bars cranked to the max at the present time and have had no clearance problem.
I'm replacing my old "Code F" torsion Bars with new "Code 1" bars. To check to see what bars your truck has look on the sticker on the door jamb. On the very bottom line, far to the right, look for "Spr". There will be a set of two numbers/letters telling just what bars are in your truck. Mine reads "FK", meaning I have Code F torsion bars, and I don't know what the K means (has something to do with the rear leaf spring rates...I think...)
If you have Code F bars, and I'm betting you do, those are the least stiff of Ford Bars. I think the proper sequence for stiffness...F's are the least stiff. Code 1's are the stiffest and code 2 (i think) are middle of the road on stiffness. I don't know how many miles your truck has on it but I'm thinking the torsion bars, being almost 20 years old, might be sagging quite a bit (Sagging,:ie. losing stiffness) I'd replace them ('bout $100 per side).
Hope this helps...
Just a side note: I always tell people...Please understand I am just tellin' you what I've learned and any opinion is my own...So build your truck the way you want it...don't let yourself be bullied into doing otherwise.
I'm running 31x10.50x15's on stock rims and the original "F" bars cranked to the max at the present time and have had no clearance problem.
I'm replacing my old "Code F" torsion Bars with new "Code 1" bars. To check to see what bars your truck has look on the sticker on the door jamb. On the very bottom line, far to the right, look for "Spr". There will be a set of two numbers/letters telling just what bars are in your truck. Mine reads "FK", meaning I have Code F torsion bars, and I don't know what the K means (has something to do with the rear leaf spring rates...I think...)
If you have Code F bars, and I'm betting you do, those are the least stiff of Ford Bars. I think the proper sequence for stiffness...F's are the least stiff. Code 1's are the stiffest and code 2 (i think) are middle of the road on stiffness. I don't know how many miles your truck has on it but I'm thinking the torsion bars, being almost 20 years old, might be sagging quite a bit (Sagging,:ie. losing stiffness) I'd replace them ('bout $100 per side).
Hope this helps...
Last edited by RazorEdge; 12-09-2013 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Wrong information
#5
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