Suspension TechGeneral discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.
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However, others are saying its better to leave your truck on the ground.
Secondly, I read someone saying that it's important to loosen the upper arm bushing bolts before adjusting the preload on the torsion bars. True? or BS?
I don't want to crank the t-bars any more than I have to, to be able to fit my 32's in without rubbing. How many turns or inches of lift do you recommend with the crank?
__________________ 02' Edge Ext Cab/V6, 3.0L/Sonic Blue
i cranked mine and only put 3000 miles on the truck and my truck has been sitting in the dealership for a few days now with the front end taken apart....dont know what there replaceing yet but i bet i find out tomorow
I don't think it matters much but the Ford factory service manual says to adjust the bars on the ground with the weight of the truck on them. The important thing is to get them even right to left.
There is much more bolt adjustment available on one side than the other, so don't just crank them both to the stops. 4~5 full turns on each side will probably buy you an inch without seriously affecting ride quality, tire wear or ball joint life.
As far as loosening the upper bushings, the Ford manual doesn't mention it and I can't see any benefit.
I don't think it matters much but the Ford factory service manual says to adjust the bars on the ground with the weight of the truck on them. The important thing is to get them even right to left.
There is much more bolt adjustment available on one side than the other, so don't just crank them both to the stops. 4~5 full turns on each side will probably buy you an inch without seriously affecting ride quality, tire wear or ball joint life.
As far as loosening the upper bushings, the Ford manual doesn't mention it and I can't see any benefit.
Alright, guess I might just leave em down since the Ford manual says it. Not sure yet. Anyone else have opinions?
Bob, I thought I read in a way older post from you that cranking the t-bars doesn't actually affect rubbing clearance at all.
crank them 4 turns one each side and you will be good to go.
that is how mine were forever. since maybe 10k and at 60k i cranked them but i lost track where they were from stock so idk how much they are cranked now.
jack the truck up and do it.
it really doesnt hurt anything to do it. and i will add some clearance.
i think you are thinking way too much into this procedure.
I tried cranking mine again and those bolts wouldnt turn worth crap....i know they said they are hard to turn but i seriously thought i was going to break it....
Bob, I thought I read in a way older post from you that cranking the t-bars doesn't actually affect rubbing clearance at all.
It doesn't. It simply changes the static equilibrium point of the suspension within the available travel. The upper and lower limits are defined by the suspension stops which stay exactly the same regardless of the torsion bar adjustment.
When I said it would buy you an inch, I was talking about height, not clearance.
but it should add more preload which will help keep the tire from smashing into the fender, but i doubt it will happen.
if you change the equlibrium isnt that inturn pushing the tire further away from the fender creating more visible clearance for normal road driving. sure the bumpstops are the same but its still less likly to hit the fender with the torsion bars cranked some.
if you change the equlibrium isnt that inturn pushing the tire further away from the fender creating more visible clearance for normal road driving. sure the bumpstops are the same but its still less likly to hit the fender with the torsion bars cranked some.
Exactly. It can reduce the likelihood of rubbing under normal conditions but it does not change the possibility of rubbing under all conditions.