Torsion bar Crank
#1
#4
welcome to the site!! as long as you dont top out the bars, you shouldnt need a camber kit for an alignment. ideally, you should have it aligned, but i never did, and i never got any problems. im not saying that i shouldn't have, just that i didnt, and i would reccommend that you do just to be safe. tires are expensive
#5
If you need it, you'll know it in about 10k-20K miles from tire wear. I HIGHLY recommend at least getting the alignment CHECKED for camber. If it is out of spec, then do the adjustment.
Unless you know where your camber was when you started, you don't know how far out it will go. There is lots of variation.
I've argued this endlessly, and I think 1.5" is too much and may cause camber change. 1" maybe is okay -- but anything too far off factory ride height will give you negative camber and camber over a certain amount wears the living crap out of your tires, especially when you add in aftermarket wheels with additional backspacing.
I've observed that the extra "leverage" of the wheels being further out and wider tires seems to aggravate the camber problem, making Rangers look like race trucks. Nice look -- but lousy for the tires.
Spend the money for an alignment where they will probably just adjust the toe. But get a print out with the full data so you know where you are when you're done -- especially if you have expensive tires.
Unless you know where your camber was when you started, you don't know how far out it will go. There is lots of variation.
I've argued this endlessly, and I think 1.5" is too much and may cause camber change. 1" maybe is okay -- but anything too far off factory ride height will give you negative camber and camber over a certain amount wears the living crap out of your tires, especially when you add in aftermarket wheels with additional backspacing.
I've observed that the extra "leverage" of the wheels being further out and wider tires seems to aggravate the camber problem, making Rangers look like race trucks. Nice look -- but lousy for the tires.
Spend the money for an alignment where they will probably just adjust the toe. But get a print out with the full data so you know where you are when you're done -- especially if you have expensive tires.
#7
#8
You DO NOT need to get an alignment simply because of cranking the torsion bars.
If you do, you needed the alighnment before.
Adding preload to the bars will NOT change the camber enough to move it out of spec.
I have had mine cranked ALL the way for over two years and I (read: I) gave my truck an alighnment after all that and was still in spec. Infact it was pretty dang close to perfect.
If you want to argue it, align your truck, crank your bars, then do it again, you'll see what I'm talking about.
If you do, you needed the alighnment before.
Adding preload to the bars will NOT change the camber enough to move it out of spec.
I have had mine cranked ALL the way for over two years and I (read: I) gave my truck an alighnment after all that and was still in spec. Infact it was pretty dang close to perfect.
If you want to argue it, align your truck, crank your bars, then do it again, you'll see what I'm talking about.
#9
I haven't cranked my, so I don't know, I would think it depends on how much you crank them if you crank tem just a little you might not need it but John has one he will chime and let you know where he got his, but yeah I think thats the whole point it gets the camber back to where it belongs.
Edit: Now I see you are trying to clear 265/75/16, you might not need to crank them, Neil is running 33/10.5/15 and I don't think he has his cranked, John (Winks) has 33/10.5/15 he cranked his it looks alot better and was kind of needed, his only really needed because when off-roading the tire was hitting the fenders.
Edit: Now I see you are trying to clear 265/75/16, you might not need to crank them, Neil is running 33/10.5/15 and I don't think he has his cranked, John (Winks) has 33/10.5/15 he cranked his it looks alot better and was kind of needed, his only really needed because when off-roading the tire was hitting the fenders.
Last edited by Ranger1; 06-03-2005 at 10:52 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by rngprerunner
You DO NOT need to get an alignment simply because of cranking the torsion bars.
If you do, you needed the alighnment before.
Adding preload to the bars will NOT change the camber enough to move it out of spec.
I have had mine cranked ALL the way for over two years and I (read: I) gave my truck an alighnment after all that and was still in spec. Infact it was pretty dang close to perfect.
If you want to argue it, align your truck, crank your bars, then do it again, you'll see what I'm talking about.
If you do, you needed the alighnment before.
Adding preload to the bars will NOT change the camber enough to move it out of spec.
I have had mine cranked ALL the way for over two years and I (read: I) gave my truck an alighnment after all that and was still in spec. Infact it was pretty dang close to perfect.
If you want to argue it, align your truck, crank your bars, then do it again, you'll see what I'm talking about.
As usual, your advice on this is based on ONE observation, reassuring people of something which may not, and is LIKELY to not, be true.
Love ya', brother -- but you're still off base on this one.
#11
Yes it does change the Camber, but NOT out of the specifyed acceptable range as many make it seem...
EDIT: Ok reading your post there again I need to say something. Had I not missed the test by a week I would be typing this as an ASE Certifyed Alignment tech and Suspension tech. Yea I have some background. And that is not based on one view. I never said the camber didnt change, it will, thats the nature of the beast. BUT the *acceptable range* of camber adjustment will not be out. Yes you may be able to notice it and over 20,000 miles you MAY notice tire wear, but that could be cause by many thing other than simply camber. So yea, thats that. I could get numbers if I wasnt at work... if I have time I'll post up something solid for ya after work.
Love ya too John
EDIT 2:: There is one thing that would cause you to need an alighnment. If you dont crank them equaly and have more than .5degree differance per side. If there is more than .5degree it will pull to the side with the most positive camber... so that would need to be aligned.
EDIT: Ok reading your post there again I need to say something. Had I not missed the test by a week I would be typing this as an ASE Certifyed Alignment tech and Suspension tech. Yea I have some background. And that is not based on one view. I never said the camber didnt change, it will, thats the nature of the beast. BUT the *acceptable range* of camber adjustment will not be out. Yes you may be able to notice it and over 20,000 miles you MAY notice tire wear, but that could be cause by many thing other than simply camber. So yea, thats that. I could get numbers if I wasnt at work... if I have time I'll post up something solid for ya after work.
Love ya too John
As usual, your advice on this is based on ONE observation, reassuring people of something which may not, and is LIKELY to not, be true.
Last edited by rngprerunner; 06-03-2005 at 12:13 PM.
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