Torsion Bar Cranking
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Mount Pleasant
Wheel "backspacing"...
So...If I understand what you are telling me the "backspacing" is a given line (plane) and a wheel with a zero backspacing the mounting surface of the wheel is dead center or that given plane. A 10" wheel with a 5.0" setback would have the mounting flange 5.0" deep in the reverse side of the wheel. Actually the backspacing of any given wheel is actually (for all intents and purposes) the distance the "center" (the rear mounting flange) is "setback" from the front of wheel. I.E., a 10" wheel with 7" of backspacing would leave the mounting flange 3" from the rear plane of the wheel (from where the plane is in the position of your illustration).
Last edited by RazorEdge; Nov 10, 2013 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Wrong terminology...
Actually the backspacing of any given wheel is actually (for all intents and purposes) the distance the "center" (the rear mounting flange) is "setback" from the front of wheel. I.E., a 10" wheel with 7" of backspacing would leave the mounting flange 3" from the rear plane of the wheel (from where the plane is in the position of your illustration).
I've never head the term 'setback' before - so you can call it whatever you want too, it's not an industry standard I've ever heard of. lol
Again, this topic/question really should be created in the wheels & tires section. It has nothing to-do with torsion bar cranking.
Another few examples:
Last edited by logan03CO; Nov 10, 2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Mount Pleasant
OK...so If I want the mounting flange to be closer to the inside flange of the wheel I am wanting a greater backspacing number...right?
And thanks for the illustrations...they were a great help.
Thank you...
RazorEdge
James E. Griffin
And thanks for the illustrations...they were a great help.
Thank you...
RazorEdge
James E. Griffin
I'll answer your questions in your new thread here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/wheels...pacing-140087/
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Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Stark tower
After I cranked my T-bars the camber on both sides were right in the middle of the specs. The toe was off a little. I suspect the camber was off before I cranked it.
I only cranked it 1.5" and the ride height was still within the Ford specs for a new suspension. It was right at the max but not over. Ford also has specs for used suspension and it was above that range.
After 40k miles of so I checked the ride height again and it had sagged a little. I cranked it a little more to keep it at the maximum new ride height. At over 95,000 miles now, the front suspension is showing no signs of problems. I am due for a check on the ride height but will wait until I am also ready for a front end alignment. Except for a shock replacement, I don't think any changes should be made to the front suspension without an alignment check.
I only cranked it 1.5" and the ride height was still within the Ford specs for a new suspension. It was right at the max but not over. Ford also has specs for used suspension and it was above that range.
After 40k miles of so I checked the ride height again and it had sagged a little. I cranked it a little more to keep it at the maximum new ride height. At over 95,000 miles now, the front suspension is showing no signs of problems. I am due for a check on the ride height but will wait until I am also ready for a front end alignment. Except for a shock replacement, I don't think any changes should be made to the front suspension without an alignment check.
thanks
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,272
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
It is in the Ford repair manual. I have those pages in my computer at work. I will try to remember to post them when I go back to work on Tuesday. Mine are for an 02 Ranger but should be good for most Rangers with T-bars. I suspect the later Rangers are different because Ford changed the ride height on the last few years.
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Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 11
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From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Seriously?
You failed to realize one thing with all that, a geometrical shape (caster, camber, toe, upper, lowwer control arm position and torsion bar all form a geometrical shape and in euclidian geometry all postulates would apply, changing the angle of the torsion bars will change the angle of the shape but all values within will remain constant and not change . All your doing in retrospect is increasing the height of your ride. Its advantageous if you offroad so you dont bottom out however the height increase now changes the cv axle angle to be at an extreme and you'll go thru cv boots as well as all your suspension joints, but youll look cool doing it lol. I have a 3" body lift on mine and a lift block under my leaf spring but i didnt raise the front up by the bar i left that alone. I replaced both lowers and that bar aint no joke scared the hell outta me raising it my first time so I ain't in no hurry to wear out my Lowers any faster
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WalkThisWhey
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