i'm going to attempt it tomorrow.. any tips? i hear you can use a big C-clamp to keep the bar loaded while you take out the screw..

 

Are you going to convert to coil overs?

Read: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...=coilover+swap

 

nah i'm installing my new #1 bars :)

 

lol! Yeah a C clamp will work, thats what I used.

 

aight i will try it. i was quoted at $200.00 to change them plus $40.00 realignment. total bull****

 

Yeah, thats waaay too much! It takes 20 minutes tops to get them out (if your like me and dont really know what youre doing lol!). The alignment is a good deal though...

 

heres how you do it

turn the acetylene bottle on one turn
turn the oxygen bottle all the way on

turn the primary O2 valve on the torce all the way on
crack the acetylene, light it, adjust the flame
turn on the secondary O2 valve and adjust

preheat the bar until cherry red
hit the cutting lever
dont go too fast or too slow


and bam, they just slide right out


no but really lol
if you have any mechanical knowlede changing them with a C-clamp should be fairly easy.

the $40 for the alignment is about right

 

Isn't it like this...

obviously jack the truck up and put it on stands(not on suspension or a-arms...on the frame)

take covers off.

take out torsion adjuster bolt.

C-clamp(load) to key

out comes the plate thingy

undo(unload) c-clamp

remove key

slide out bar?



I honestly don't remember, and i'd liek to get a refresher.

 

im pretty sure thats how its done, except i pulled the adjuster bolt out once i had the pressure off it.

 

where can i get new #1 bars ?

 

You need to find a VIN number that had #1 bars form the factory. its wierd how ford does t-bar part numbers. i guess they are all the same part number within the same model year.

So.. when you order the bars from ford, you give them a VIN from a truck with the #1's. If your truck came with them, then obviously use your VIN number. Do a search on here and youll find some recent threads with all the info you will need including some VIN numbers for #1 bars

 

Shane's got it right lol

I did 2 in about a 2 month period.. be careful, when that bar is loaded the physics behind it can kill you lol

 

Torsion Bars from Dealer
#1 part numbers:
F67Z-5B326-FA Pass side
F67Z-5B326-FB Driver side


i used a 2 jaw gear puller from harbor freight... i was worried about the c-clamp coming off during the install prosess

 

well i went to install the new shackles this morning, and couldn't due to my exhuast.. in order to get shackles in i'd have to redo my exhuast. :(

 

So what is a #1 torsion bar? Were some years stiffer than others or was it something else?

 

they are the strongest/stiffest t-bars avalable for our trucks

 

dang it i still need to put my new #1 bars on i still havent had the time to

 

Cam, just hack the exhaust off... That's what I had to do to mine to get the shackle to clear.

 

Are these OEM Ford bars? What models were they installed on? FX4 Level 2's?

 

They were on a lot of 4.0 4x4 Extended Cabs

 

My truck had them

 

^^Mine didn't! And your old ones got scrapped!






You can find out what bars you have by opening your door and looking at the door tag. under "SPR", you'll see something similar tothese: BBKK, 11CC, BK, 1C.

BBKK = B front torsion bars, K rear leafs
1C = #1 front torsion bars, C rear leafs.


It's the highest stock spring rate torsion bar offered in our trucks(675 i believe? but idk.)

 

this sucks... shackles or exhuast? i'm not sure if i wanna dump my exhuast.. any other tips for re-routing my exhuast tips?

 

Cut it so you can install your shackles, then go get it redone.

 

Get your number 1's on and go from there bro. imo....if the pipes exist in the right spot, you can cut the tips and run turndowns...it'll be similar to how my setup will be.